Toyota Tundra Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I've looked all over the internet but haven't been able to find anything similar to my problem. It's happened three times in about a year, but when I really get on the gas going fast the motor will jump to redline and won't quit, even if I turn it off it jumps to redline. It's pretty scary, but I figured out if I unplug the battery it will go back to normal. It happened last June and I took it into a dealer, they had no idea and said if the problem was replicated they could take a look at it.

It happened twice the other day driving in Arizona, but since then I notice when I turn off the motor the car shakes briefly, I assume it's engine knocking but have never experienced this before. Also, I just put a Volant CAI on the truck, but probably put 1000 miles on it before any of these problems manifested. If anyone knows anything, please let me know...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
you should try it as an excuse for a speeding ticket...just tell the cop that your throttle stuck so you had to do 100+

in regards to your issue...I haven't heard of anyone with issues of sticky throttle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
your pedal is not getting stuck on your floor mat or anything is it? A few people have had this problem. My clutch kept getting stuck on my mat because i didnt have a clip to hold the mat in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
No, nothing happens to the petal, it just won't affect the engine. This problem only happens when I try to pass someone going 80+ mph, like it opens up then won't close. Even if I put it in neutral or turn off the motor, it'll jump to redline as soon as I turn it off. It's definitely something with the computer, but I'm more worried about the shaking, ever since this happened whenever I kill the engine the car shakes for about a second after the rpm drops off. It's gotta be knocking I guess, but I've never had this problem with any car before.

That's what sucks about new cars, as great as the technology is you can't do anything when the computer starts acting up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
the best advice i can give is take it in to the dealer and tell them something is definatley wrong and you dont want to put your life in danger if it happens again. what happens if your on a mountain road and it sticks and you go off a cliff, not worth it i say, tell them to fix it. and scream out lemon to scare them ha..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Hello, I've looked all over the internet but haven't been able to find anything similar to my problem. It's happened three times in about a year, but when I really get on the gas going fast the motor will jump to redline and won't quit, even if I turn it off it jumps to redline. It's pretty scary, but I figured out if I unplug the battery it will go back to normal. It happened last June and I took it into a dealer, they had no idea and said if the problem was replicated they could take a look at it.

It happened twice the other day driving in Arizona, but since then I notice when I turn off the motor the car shakes briefly, I assume it's engine knocking but have never experienced this before. Also, I just put a Volant CAI on the truck, but probably put 1000 miles on it before any of these problems manifested. If anyone knows anything, please let me know...
I see you live in Utah. At what altitude might this be? I had to Google "CAI" to find out what it is. I could be wrong but "Cool Air Intake" may be defeating the factory installed air intake system which was designed to provide WARM air to the intake to prevent ICING. I don't know how this may be applied to Fuel Injected engines, however, carberated engines WILL be affected at increased altitudes as well as operating during COOL- DAMP (Humid) conditions. Were you driving in the mountains?

Small airplanes have a thing called "Carb Heat" which is turned on to introduce WARM air to the venturi to prevent ICE forming in the venturi which will ultimately stall the engine. Deceleration (as in landing) during COOL-DAMP conditions is a particularly critical time for ICING to occur. "Visible Vapor" in the air... Fog.. Cloud, etc. is ideal for icing.

I have had ICING occur in my first 1974 Toyota (Corrola) when I removed the air filter to gain more power. Once the engine starts to run rough... because it is starving for air, you pull over to the side of the road the ICE in the venturi will melt and drop the water into the manifold causing more roughness.. and complete STALL. After the ice melts, and the water in the manifold evaporates, you are back in business. TacoGuy

PS: I probably made this WAY TOO complicated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
407 Posts
Take your Cold air off an have a look at the throttle plate. Make sure the gasket isn't misaligned and the throttle isn't hanging up on it somehow. Take a close look at everything. Clean the throttle plate with brake clean if it's gummed up. Often over oiled filters cause excess crud to build up in the intake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
When you turn the ign off the power is cut to the injectors, that is prob the shaking/rough pinging sound, but the tach needle could jump to any number. With the ign turned off, and power to the fuel pump, fuel injectors, and ign system, the engine can't keep pulling, it's just making noise because it is still turning pretty fast, and even with an auto trans the engine can sometimes still be driven through the rotating driveline just like a manual trans. If it does it again,turn key to off position, put trans in neutral an use brakes to slow down. Unless there a multple problems such as throttle plate sticking open, along with relays that are also sticking in the closed in the position, keeping ign system powered, there is not much way a truck can run without fuel and spark Disregard tach reading when ign is turned off. if it happens again, don't pump brakes , as you have only enough vacuum in the booster for a couple of pumps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,880 Posts
I'll have to take a look at the throttle assy in the day light but...

perhaps the cam, cable or something with the throttle mechanism is sticking. Years ago, a 5.0 I had got stuck WOT, slammed into the redline and I had to kill the ignition. I was kinda hot rodding it at the time, and a bunch of people ran over to see what was going on. Popped the hood and found the throttle stuck open. It was a 85 with a Holley carb (POS, just like the rest of the car...), and the throttle plate was stuck on the little plastic cam that operated the accelerator pump. If I remember right...

Anyhow, if it happens again, shut her down, pop the hood and check out the throttle position. If theres slop in the cable its because the plate is stuck open on something. If its closed, perhaps the cruise control system is acting funky and keeping the throttle open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Just a suggestion... if you do take it to your dealer, you may want to put your stock intake system back on. They will most likely say that your intake voided the warranty.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25 Posts
Hello, I've looked all over the internet but haven't been able to find anything similar to my problem. It's happened three times in about a year, but when I really get on the gas going fast the motor will jump to redline and won't quit, even if I turn it off it jumps to redline. It's pretty scary, but I figured out if I unplug the battery it will go back to normal. It happened last June and I took it into a dealer, they had no idea and said if the problem was replicated they could take a look at it.
There are a couple of similar complaints at mycarstats.com although 1 person stated that the problem was related to the cruise control system.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top