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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry if a solution has been posted, but I've tried searching and it seems to not work. I also went through the DIY section and TSBs with no luck.

So, the issue is that I'm in the middle of replacing the front brakes and can't seem to get the front rotors off. Pads came out easy, caliper is off with no problem, but can't get the rotor to come off which is a surprise.

I have all OEM replacement parts and the parts guy said the rotor comes off with no problem which probably jinxed me. Knowing I had new rotors I even resorted to a few minutes of pounding on the thing just so we would know who was boss. Once again, I am not the boss :cool:.

Tried the M8 screw in the holes but either the tap is too rusted or it is a different size, no use. Any suggestions? I'm figuring that there are pads inside this rotor which function for the traction control as there are on the rear rotors? Would have figured I'd have a set of pads for those as well if they knew I was doing the whole job and not just turning the rotor.

Planning to tackle this again tomorrow once I complete some attitude adjustment this evening.
 

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as said, hammer them off.... after soaking them with pb blaster through the stud holes... make sure you get some brake clean and sandpaper or something to clean the rust off the hubs before you put the new rotors on.. welcome to the wonderful world of new england auto repair...
 

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Something dumb to ask but you did remove the retaining nut ?? I think its a torx bolt that needs to be removed that helps align things when installing a new rotor. Then as others said get out the hammers. :D after some PBlaster soaks in for a little while around the hub and lug bolts.
 

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Two M8x1.25 bolts inserted into the supplied holes will push the rotors right off.... The supplied holes are machined into the rotor on the hub face. :tu:
Keep your hands off the hammers and and follow this man's advice. It's not only the proper method, it's the easiest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replies! After cooling off in the AC for a while and letting the penetrating oil do it's job, I went back and was able to get the M8 bolts in the threads and it worked like a charm. Maybe I need to work on my patience a little more :-0

Headed out to sand down the hubs and prep for putting things back together! Love that New Englad road salt. But I have to say, I got lucky on how easy the pins and everything else came off. I've learned to save the old pins, clean them off and use those to drive out the next set.
 

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Thanks for the replies! After cooling off in the AC for a while and letting the penetrating oil do it's job, I went back and was able to get the M8 bolts in the threads and it worked like a charm. Maybe I need to work on my patience a little more :-0

Headed out to sand down the hubs and prep for putting things back together! Love that New Englad road salt. But I have to say, I got lucky on how easy the pins and everything else came off. I've learned to save the old pins, clean them off and use those to drive out the next set.
A little bit of Permatex Never-Seize compound on those hubs will keep it from happening again. Cover all the areas where the hub and rotor make contact. It's messy, but it works very well!!
 

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Beating on a wheel hub with a large metal faced hammer to remove a rotor is a bad idea and should be done only as a last resort. If the rotor doesn't come off with the first few strikes of an average sized dead-blow hammer, a good amount of penetrating oil and patience will get the job done - your wheel bearings will thank you for it!
 

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Something dumb to ask but you did remove the retaining nut ?? I think its a torx bolt that needs to be removed that helps align things when installing a new rotor. Then as others said get out the hammers. :D after some PBlaster soaks in for a little while around the hub and lug bolts.
toyotas dont have retaining bolts,,, hondas, and others do...
 
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