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2007 Tundra Speaker sizes?

37K views 33 replies 16 participants last post by  bayou39  
#1 ·
From a quick look inside the cabin, it appears that the front door speakers are 5x7's and the rears 5.25's. Any confirmation on this? (07 Double Cab sr5 without the JBL system)
 
#2 ·
6x9 in the front and 6.5" in the back
 
#3 ·
6x9 in the front and 6.5" in the back
Not to be a "Doubting Thomas" but, I just wondered if you've actually taken the rear speakers out and measured them or the openings, or did they just appear that size ...I was getting ready to order some speakers tonight myself and I was pretty sure they looked like 6 1/2s in the back (I have and SR5 w/single CD six speaker system to make sure we're comparing apples and apples) but I decided to crawl back in and measure them one last time to be sure and they seemed smaller than 6" ...at least the speaker opening appears to be my tape measure...so unless I took the door apart I can't be sure. I was told by Toyota that it had 6.5's rear and front-and I know for sure those fronts look awfully close to 6x9s...so I just wanted to know if anyone has actually taken them out yet so we can all order the right speakers!!!! For what its worth,my upgrade is getting slowed down by no mounting kit available yet...though I guess Metra may have one out in 1-2 weeks according to my sound guy...If anyone knows differtly,let me know. Peace...DAcat:sleep:
 
#4 ·
I replaced mine over the weekend.
They are definately 6x9 in the front and 6.5" in the back.
 

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#5 ·
I forgot to mention that you have to use the basket piece from the old speakers in the front and the back. You have to cut out the old speaker out of the basket. You actually have to screw the new speaker into the basket.
 
#7 ·
I purchased some aftermarket speakers for my 2007 Tundra DC. I got 6x9's for the front and 6 1/2's for the rear. I had no problem mounting the rear speakers but in the front after mounting the 6x9's on the old speaker bezel the door panel wouldn't properly snap back into place. The speaker stuck out to much. Did you have this problem bayou39? I ended up using 6 1/2's for the front and back. I lost some sound volume/quality. Thinking about just going back to the stock speakers.
 
#8 ·
I purchased some aftermarket speakers for my 2007 Tundra DC. I got 6x9's for the front and 6 1/2's for the rear. I had no problem mounting the rear speakers but in the front after mounting the 6x9's on the old speaker bezel the door panel wouldn't properly snap back into place. The speaker stuck out to much. Did you have this problem bayou39? I ended up using 6 1/2's for the front and back. I lost some sound volume/quality. Thinking about just going back to the stock speakers.
I'm planning to install polk audio MMC 690 in front what speakers did You had problems with? http://g-ec2.images-amazon.com/images/I/417G38BE5VL._SS500_.jpg .Any one know good amp that will work with those?
 
#9 ·
I tried installing Kenwood KFC-6960ie 6x9's. From the looks of it no matter what 6x9 is used the mounting depth is to shallow on the door and if you move them out away from the door the panel won't snap on properly at the bottom. I tried 3 different ways of mounting them and none got a perfect fit. They will mount if you can stand the door panel being lose at the bottom. That bugged me too much. I guess i will give the 6 1/2's a 3-4 week break in period for any improvement.
 
#10 ·
Mine hit the door panel as well. I actually cut some of the honeycomb looking stuff off the inside of the door panel where the speaker was hitting. It is better than what it was. I think only one clip would not clip on for the panel.
You cant even notice it.
 
#12 ·
I put Rainbow SLC 265's in my front doors. I think they are 65mm (2.55"). I built an mdf adapter and an mdf ring, each was 3/4" mdf. So I am 1.5" out from the speaker well. I had to cut off the plastic ring around the honeycomb. I measured with the adapter ring, and it appears that you could get almost 3" of depth. I also off-centered the midbasses in the opening to get away from the window guide.

I used these as a template to build the mdf adapter:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/SCOSAT69

Don't use the plastic adapters, your sound will suffer. Cut the mdf to get a solid mount.

Unfortunetly, I won't be home for a few weeks to post pictures. I will put some up as soon as I get a chance.

BTW, the rainbows sound amazing. If you installed aftermarket speakers and are not happy with the improvement, try really beefing up the installed location.
 
#13 ·
The fronts have a depth of only 2.5", which rules out 99% of all the best 6.5s :( I think 2.75" might be possible with some squeezing.

Hey OnePin. I ended up going with the Rainbow comps (tuff choice between them and CDT). But I must say I am really happy. I spent a LOT of time getting the install right (mdf rings, dynamat, second skins, modelling clay, etc.). They really thump when installed correctly.
 
#14 ·
Here is the old crappy back speaker................
That !!! is the factory rear Speaker ??? Well I was thinking of keeping them to be just Fill-ins from the back for my MB Quarts up front, but forget that.
 
#15 ·
Hey OnePin. I ended up going with the Rainbow comps (tuff choice between them and CDT). But I must say I am really happy. I spent a LOT of time getting the install right (mdf rings, dynamat, second skins, modelling clay, etc.). They really thump when installed correctly.
IMHO, choosing between Rainbow and CDT is like choosing between a Tundra 5.7 and a Chevy Colorado. You definitely made the right choice.

Where did you mount the tweeters?

:)
 
#16 ·
IMHO, choosing between Rainbow and CDT is like choosing between a Tundra 5.7 and a Chevy Colorado. You definitely made the right choice.

Where did you mount the tweeters?

:)

For right now I have the tweets surface screwed to the triangle piece by the mirrors. I wanted to make sure I liked the sound from that location. We leave this Friday for a week long 2000 mile round trip vacation so I should know by the end of the trip if I like them that high. If so, I will flush mount them.

It's really interesting to find what other speakers are out there if you just do the research. Many better options than Pioneer, MB, Eclipse, Alpine, etc for a good price.
 
#18 ·
And if you think that's cool, wait until you get into the DIY stuff, like Dayton, Seas, Peerless, Vifa, Scanspeak, etc. My $30 Seas tweeters are some of the best I've ever heard.

That's a good location, and not very intrusive. I plan on putting mine there as well.
That's one of the reasons I went with the Pioneer 880PRS. With all the adjustments, I can easily go with an active set-up later. And I put the Rainbow cross-overs by the amp and ran 2-pair Knukoncepts speaker wire to the doors. Everything is set-up for future upgrades.

Now if somebody will come out with a really good SQ double DIN touchscreen with good iPod control...:confused:
 
#19 ·
OnePin,

Did you use $30 Seas tweeters or Vifa? I'm betting Vifa, but I'm no mind reader. Can you tell me which model you used?

I'm likely to go with a Vifa soft dome and Dayton Mids myself in the future. I am contemplating a carPC with in dash screen, maybe an Alpine 701 EQ to do the speakers and for volume control. I would be curious to hear your thoughts. It's been a few years since I've done any stereo installs. Last I did was a Sony C90 ES and 210 EQ along with Focal components and a 10" sub that I had in my 2001 Z06. I pulled all of that out about a year ago in anticipation of selling my vette. It's gone now, and funny thing is I still have all of that stereo equipment. I need to ebay it and get rid of it. I'll likely start from scratch, might keep my 4 channel amp as it is pretty perfect for my RCSB truck.
 
#20 ·
I'm using the Seas Neo "car tweeters." I have both the textile (silk) and aluminum ones. THey are both great tweeters, with my preference being to the metal domes.

Which Focal components do you have? Mho, the best tweeter I've ever used is the Focal TN51 (Old series Utopia tweeter, and now called the TN52 as part of the K2P series)

The TN51 is just hard to get set up right, to prevent harshness issues.
 
#21 ·
I just finished my install too.
Polk MOMO's 6x9 in front
Polk MOMO's 6 1/2 componets in the rear but, I put the tweeters in the front dash tied to the front 6x9's.

Had to space the window fram back abot 1/8 inch, and add a fastner to the front door pannel.
 
#24 ·
I'm using the Seas Neo "car tweeters." I have both the textile (silk) and aluminum ones. THey are both great tweeters, with my preference being to the metal domes.

Which Focal components do you have? Mho, the best tweeter I've ever used is the Focal TN51 (Old series Utopia tweeter, and now called the TN52 as part of the K2P series)

The TN51 is just hard to get set up right, to prevent harshness issues.
I've got the 165K2 component set. Not the Utopias - that was way more than I wanted to spend. Part of the reason I want to go DIY is the ability to get much higher quality for lesser amounts of $$$.
 
#25 ·
I was taking a cursory look of the interior on my RCSB the other night, and I noted that there seems to be a lot of room under the seats to mount amplifiers, etc. I have the bucket seats with center console. I also noticed that there may be some room under the center console if it is removed.

I also believe that the backside vertical piece of the center console is different on the DC and CM trucks than the RC trucks. Maybe that part of the console can be purchased from the parts department if it would help integrate any equipment you might be needing to fit in.

As for speakers, since the RCSB has tweeters mounted in the dash, I was thinking that it would be pretty easy to either modify your triangle cover pieces that go over the window mount in the doors, or purchase the ones that are used in the upgraded stereo options for DC and CM trucks that have the tweeter mounting location in them already. This would help keep a stock look to the truck.

There's also a lot of room behind the seats in a RCSB to mount a subwoofer, and/or other equipment that might fit your fancy.

That plastic "cap" that sits right under the back window seems to be a good spot to hide a satellite radio antenna or a GPS antenna. I haven't popped it off myself, but it looks like a good location that shouldn't interfere with the operations of either. I know that in my wife's FX45, that I put her Sirius antenna in a cubby spot between the rear hatch and the body and it doesn't have any interference spots at all, and it is technically "more covered" than this location would be. It's also one of those "mini" antennas for Sirius radios, and not the bigger factory Sirius antenna - it is however plugged into the factory Sirius radio.
 
#26 ·
Front speakers are easy to access.Use small flat screwdriver to lift screen in the center about 1/4'' (don't over do it as it will bent screen)then lift left corner (clip)then right and so on.Speakrer size is 2.75'' and You can fit 3''.I just ordered 3.5'' to see if I can install it from underneath.
Front speakers are 6x9 but it is hard to fit aftermarket.I just installed today momo 6x9 3way http://g-ec2.images-amazon.com/images/I/417G38BE5VL._SS500_.jpg and I had to customize panels and speakers.I removed front screen from speaker and grind down sticking out part that hold it , then I removed all honey like screen on the inside of door panel.I also had to move window rail 3/8 back and it fits just perfect with zero gap.
The sound was worth spending 6 hours of labour.
As to back panel on reg cab it is super easy to remove just pull it is attached on 4 clips You can't brake it.That is where I was thinking to put tweeters or some domes.Antena should be outside as it will loose preformance hidden under panel.
Sub in regular cab fit perfectly next to emergency storage behind passenger seat.
If You have manual seats it have tons of room under the seats to fit AMPs.
It is a good idea to screw them to plywood thru carpet as carpet is very loose.Screwing it to metal floor may be a problem with rust and if You off road it may kill the amplifier(vibration).
Cheers