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Thanks for the link. At best, things seem to be inconclusive as to they why of it all. I love the truck, there just aren’t enough of us owner/tinkerers yet, right? Even a lift kit, which you would think would be straight forward, is complicated and subject to personal bias experience.
 

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Thanks for the link. At best, things seem to be inconclusive as to they why of it all. I love the truck, there just aren’t enough of us owner/tinkerers yet, right? Even a lift kit, which you would think would be straight forward, is complicated and subject to personal bias experience.
It all depends on what you want to do and how much you can spend. The Revtek front spacer lift kit for Platinum would allow you to get the lifted look while maintaining the electronically-variable front shocks. But I can not recommend spacer lifts for serious off-road use. Coilover lifts are better for overland travel. In order of increasingly better performance (at higher and higher cost): 5100, 6112, adjustables (Fox, Icon, etc.).
 

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Love your rig. Did you switch from 18" wheels to 17" wheels? I notice there are a lot more options in 17" than 18" sized wheels. My 2012 SR5 has 18" wheels. Thanks!
 

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I plan to go to a 17" wheel as well. More tire and wheels options in the 17's.. FYI I don't believe there would be any fitment issues as the Tundra from 07-16' and the Sequoia from 08-16' share the same brake calipers ... and a 17" wheel was an option till 2013...

these are the OEM Tundra options 2007-2013:
17" wheels - Width: 8", Offset: +50mm, Backspacing: 6.5", Hub Bore Diameter = 110mm
18" wheels - Width: 8", Offset: +60mm, Backspacing: 6.85", Hub Bore Diameter = 110mm
20" wheels - Width: 8", Offset: +60mm, Backspacing: 6.85", Hub Bore Diameter = 110mm
 

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from what I was told by Pat at Total chaos Fab.... the 17" need to have 4 3/4 backspacing. several of the Method wheels have this....

I really dont know if i'll go 17 or 18. looks like the cost difference for me would be $200-300 or so. Not sure if its worth doing?
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Sorry for the delay in responding...several inquiries to reply to:

No alignment or wear issues. CV boots all look healthy, and tires are wearing evenly.

Regarding wheel size, I went 17" because I wanted as much sidewall as possible given the type of terrain I encounter in the southwest and Rockies. Even with the 17s, I've scuffed the rims a couple times. My XDs (XD301 Turbine, XD30179058718 by KMC) easily clear the calipers, so the fact that most rim websites say 17s don't fit is a bit misleading. I'm also pretty confident that Method wheels will fit (I was looking at the Con6 but wanted less offset). As I noted previously, the only change I'd make is to go +25mm instead of +18mm. I'm at +18 and I get a little rub on the front tire at the body mount (not a real issue, but an annoyance). @silvertundradave is running 35" tires on his wheels at +25, and has no rub (I don't recall if he's on 17s or 18s, but look him up here on the forums).

I'd suggest you find a good shop that will help you confirm fit. My local shop (highly recommend Sierra Expeditions in Mesa, AZ) helped confirm, but wasn't able to get the wheels from his distributor when I needed them, so I bought from bbwheelsonline.com, and I think they were helpful on confirming fit as well.

A lot of this stuff isn't cut-and-dried for Sequoias, but there are enough of us who've done it that you can puzzle together the right solution.

As for my suspension, I'd do it exactly the same in a heartbeat...for what we do. If you're just looking for elevation to look cool (nothing wrong with that) and maybe occasional maintained dirt roads, then spacers are fine. For the kind of off-roading we do, with the loads we run, I wouldn't change a thing (nor cut corners). Well...adjustable dampening might be nice, but for the cost, it seemed frivolous.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
from what I was told by Pat at Total chaos Fab.... the 17" need to have 4 3/4 backspacing. several of the Method wheels have this....

I really dont know if i'll go 17 or 18. looks like the cost difference for me would be $200-300 or so. Not sure if its worth doing?
That's going to give you a lot of offset to the outside, and more likelihood to rub from my experience. I have the Bushwacker fender flares, and my +18mm stick out about 0.25-0.5" beyond them. 4-3/4" is equal to zero millimeters, and so will stick out 18mm further (in case you weren't aware, lower offset means they stick out more). Factory wheels are +60mm I believe, and that's so they nest in the wheel well a bit to improve fuel economy.

I think the 18" wheels look better, unless you need to maximize tire sidewall for rocky terrain as we've had to plan for. I do like the added float of the 17" tires when I air down (usually to 18 or 20 psi), but I still like the look of the 18s better.
 

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Howsit guys, new to the forum. Great rigs btw. I've seen the questions pertaining to 17-18" wheels fitting. Is this true for all models and years for the 2nd gen? I have a 12' SR5 with OEM 20" wheels and want to go 34" tires with a 17 or 18" wheel. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Some shots from recent adventures...

Descending to the Virgin River in southern Utah:

Challenging stretch on a local mining trail:




A little nerve wracking as there wasn't much "road" left at this washout. (picked up some opportunistic firewood along the way)
 

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Your rig looks awesome, and that last picture looks like something I would be wetting my pants over.
Keep the pics and travel stories coming.
Also, the rear bumper lights, do they put out enough light at night to use as backup lights by chance?
Cheers

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
 

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Some shots from recent adventures...



A little nerve wracking as there wasn't much "road" left at this washout. (picked up some opportunistic firewood along the way)


Serious pucker factor going on here. Glad to see you kept the rubber side down.


Unrelated; what air pressure were you running? Also, how are the Radflo shocks working out? Do you find the damping able to control the spring your running?
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Your rig looks awesome, and that last picture looks like something I would be wetting my pants over.
Keep the pics and travel stories coming.
Also, the rear bumper lights, do they put out enough light at night to use as backup lights by chance?
Cheers
Hey surfnsteve, the lights in my bumper are more for "chase lights" when we're running dusty roads. I used to be skeptical (since I'm not racing), but after spending time running with groups on dusty southwest trails, I quickly learned the value of some reasonably intense rear lights. For what it's worth, I didn't need them on in this situation, I'd just forgotten to turn them off from the run up to that trail.

To answer your question, I can use them as backup lights, but I replaced my backup bulbs with this item off Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX4FMD1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're so bright that I can't hardly tell when the amber lights are on during backing up. I've loved the LED 921 bulbs. Backing up in challenging terrain or intensely dark nights is so easy now.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Serious pucker factor going on here. Glad to see you kept the rubber side down.


Unrelated; what air pressure were you running? Also, how are the Radflo shocks working out? Do you find the damping able to control the spring your running?
Took it slow and easy, and had great spotters, so it was easier than it looks!

I generally run 20#, and will go down to 18# in really soft or fine loose stuff. I think I was at 18# on that trail down to Virgin River.
I've really been thrilled with the Radflo setup. They're working superbly with the springs. Of course, I can't compare it to anything else as that's all I've had on this rig, but given my experience so far, I'd do it all over again. I would consider the adjustable dampening, because I've seen others get value out of it on other platforms, but that may be frivolous.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I've been thinking about how the Sequoia transfer case skid might be improved. A desirable characteristic would be to provide continuous coverage from the front of the engine to the back of the gas tank. There shouldn't need to be a gap between the transfer case skid and the gas tank skid, which is an opportunity for either of these skids to get caught on an obstruction when moving forward or reversing. The reason the RCI and BudBuilt designs have this gap is that they originated with the Tundra, which typically (except RCSB) has at least two foot longer wheelbase than the Sequoia. Thus the Tundra with 26 gallon gas tank usually has about a two foot gap between the back of the transfer case and the front of the gas tank. On the Sequoia, the transfer case skid could bridge between the transmission cross member and the gas tank skid, thus eliminating the unnecessary extra cross member used on the BudBuilt or the weaker cantilevered design used by RCI.

It appears that the 26 gallon gas tank skid made by either RCI (first photo) or BudBuilt (second photo) would fit on the Sequoia with minor or no modifications. My Sequoia has the same 4 threaded mounting points on the frame as used by these skid plates. I have not yet confirmed whether they are in the exact same physical orientation, however. Has anyone put either of these gas tank skid plates on a Sequoia?

The P&P Engineering skid plate assembly for the Tundra with 38 gallon gas tank (3rd photo) is an example with continuous coverage. Because the front of the larger gas tank is directly behind the Tundra transfer case, the P&P transfer case skid (4th photo) spans directly between the transmission cross member and the gas tank skid. Photos are from:

https://p-p-engineering.myshopify.com/collections/toyota

https://www.tundras.com/threads/p-p-engineering-tundra-skid-plates.11041/

Based on inspiration from the P&P design, it seems to me that a similar continuous bridging transfer case skid for the Sequoia could be adapted to the RCI or BudBuilt gas tank skids. Please post any comments or suggestions (pro or con).
I can officially confirm...The RCI fuel tank skid is a straight bolt-on fit for our Sequoias. You'll most likely need to replace the rear fuel tank strap with the Tundra off-road version (it has two bolt studs sticking out of the bottom). I say "most likely" because I assume that there aren't any Sequoias out there that came with the off-road fuel tank strap. Fuel tank strap is Toyota part number 77602-0C150. $85.36 at the dealer. Prop up your fuel tank with a jack stand, and the strap replacement is a 10 min job. Installing the skid plate was maybe 20 mins.

Just to be clear, the Toyota Tundra fuel tank strap and RCI skid plate (with front supports) was a perfect fit.

I'll do a write-up with picts as a separate thread in the next few days.
 

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I can officially confirm...The RCI fuel tank skid is a straight bolt-on fit for our Sequoias. You'll most likely need to replace the rear fuel tank strap with the Tundra off-road version (it has two bolt studs sticking out of the bottom). I say "most likely" because I assume that there aren't any Sequoias out there that came with the off-road fuel tank strap. Fuel tank strap is Toyota part number 77602-0C150. $85.36 at the dealer. Prop up your fuel tank with a jack stand, and the strap replacement is a 10 min job. Installing the skid plate was maybe 20 mins.

Just to be clear, the Toyota Tundra fuel tank strap and RCI skid plate (with front supports) was a perfect fit.

I'll do a write-up with picts as a separate thread in the next few days.
Yes, actually I beat you to it. RCI gas tank skid using Budbuilt beefy mounting strap (Christmas present - grin):

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/171689-wat-did-you-do-your-gen2-3/#post1917233

Custom transfer case skid:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/171689-wat-did-you-do-your-gen2-4/#post1925177
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Yes, actually I beat you to it. RCI gas tank skid using Budbuilt beefy mounting strap (Christmas present - grin):

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/171689-wat-did-you-do-your-gen2-3/#post1917233

Custom transfer case skid:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/171689-wat-did-you-do-your-gen2-4/#post1925177
Of course you did! MtnClimber for the win! :grin2:
Nicely done though, I like the custom transfer case skid. The RCI setup is working great for me, but I can totally see the benefits of what you came up with.
 

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Hey Im thinking about new Fuel D576 Assault rims. It's 20x9 with +20mm offset. Factory setting is 20x8 with +60mm so the new rim would be approx. 53mm out. Is it gonna stick out too much/rub or is it ok ? any experinece ? I really like the design of the rim but they offer only +1mm or +20 mm offsets :(
 
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