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Discussion Starter #1
I am experiencing front end rotor warp and related steering wheel shimmer. I plan on replacing my rotors and pads, but reading on this site I understand the second generation Tundras had a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) released that suggested replacing the backing plates. I am unable to find the complete TSB or details of what is involved in the TSB. Can someone answer the following questions?
  • Do all second generation Tundras fall under this TSB?
  • Does the TSB relate to front and rear backing plates?
  • Should I replace the backing plates to eliminate future rotor warping or is there another easier option such as cryo rotors?
  • It seems backing plate replacement is involved and requires bearing removal. I do my own brakes, rotors, and bleeding, but is this backing plate change better left to the dealership?
Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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I have NOT heard of backing plate problems on the 2nd Gen Tundras........ I have a 2007 and only till about 2 months ago just changed rotors and pads.......but every so often the pedal felt spongy......so I pulled the front wheels off and the pads were EXCELLENT.......almost like new.......so I pulled the rear wheels off and you really can't see the pads unless you remove the caliper which I did.......actually just swung it out of the way with one bolt still holding it on.....pads looked GREAT so I put it back together........THEN the brake pedal was very spongy and I didn't do anything to the brakes except swing one rear caliper up and out of the way to see the pads........so after a lot of research I found the rubber brake hoses on the Tundra's become soft after time which of course causes spongy brakes at times and with my excising that one rubber brake hose it made it worse.

So I purchased ALL SIX Stainless Steel brake hoses from RockAuto.com for about $120 and WOW what a HUGE difference. No more spongy brakes again. I highly recommend you doing this.

BTW you can get the pads and rotors from RockAuto.com too and they have dozens to chose from depending on which quality you desire. I put slotted rotors on the front with carbon metallic pads because I tow a near 3,000 lb boat that does have any brakes on the trailer. The stopping power is unbelievable. Also have the same pads on the rear since the new brake hoses were installed.
 

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Look up an article from Raybestos in which they discuss rotor warp. I found it on Hendon Media group, with the article called "Raybestos Brake Tech School, Part one: Rotors Don't Warp"

They have a very different perspective on warpage which makes a lot of sense given they are manufacturers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you very much for the replies.

Billy Bob, I will look into the stainless steel brake line hoses you suggest. In addition, I will have to take a look at where the extra two lines are located. I'm used to only dealing with four brake hoses.

Ghost Prime, I read your suggested article from Raybestos. I must say it is an eye opener making me wonder whether my previous all wheel alignment and wheel balance job led to this condition from poor torque sequence or torque value control.
 

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vkr, the other 2 flexible brake hoses are on the back of the rear end.

I was taught a LONG time ago that hard spots from heat can effect pulsating brake pedal, especially from the front rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Reviewing the stainless steel brake lines on rock auto, It seems you must have purchased the Power Stop BH00130 part number.
 
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