I would go with the 4.6 I like the 5.7 but the 4.6 looks like it can get 20mpg of the hwy.

 

I've had the 4.6 now for a little over a week. I LOVE it around town. Mileage has been in the 19-21 range consistently. Great pickup. Quick truck. Plenty of power for towing too!

 

I just bought a 4.6 about a week and a half ago. I drove off the lot and started a 300 mile roadtrip back home. I averaged 23.4 MPG varying speeds for break in reasons, but i stayed between 50-65 the whole trip. The 4.6 is just a much better option for the daily driver. With the tow package it is rated to tow 8300 lbs. so unless you need to tow more than that, i can't think of any reason why anybody needs the 5.7L. And who knows, after the break in period is over and i start running Amsoil, maybe i'll get 25MPG!

 

Thanks for the postings - keep them coming in. 23.4 mpg is amazing as I cannot see anyone getting over 20 mpg ever with the 5.7L and I have tried. Best I received was 19 mpg babying it straight flat road going 55-60 mph long haul well over 1/2 tank full. I test drove the 4.6L only for about 5 miles (liked what I felt) and am going in tomorrow to see if a local dealer will let me drive a new 2010 4.6L back home 30 miles and 30 miles back to actually see my gas mileage and pick up power to see if I am happy with it. I bet they don't let me since they only have a couple base work trucks equipped with the 4.6L and probably not having the 4.10 rear end.tow pkg like I want and the 3.90 which will get better mpg.

 

With my 2008 4x4 DC 5.7 I average 19.2 on the Highway with 14.5 city/mixed. I would want to see bigger fuel gains before I give up a few ponies.

 

Do any of you 4.6L owners run larger tires and rims and still achieve 20+ MPG?

 

I am not saying I don't believe the numbers from this engine or anything but I've only heard data from a pretty narrow set of circumstances. I've heard published ratings and I've heard real world numbers from people babying the thing on break in. I am still curious to hear numbers from people who are driving them the way I and alot of people drive trucks in real life... 50% or more dipping into the go-pedal regularly around town with some aggressive accelaration, and 50% or less cruising at 70-80 mpg. If a 20 mpg average without driving like there's an egg under the gas pedal is still possible now THAT'S impressive. If I only get it when driving in a way I'll never drive, oh well. I'll take 16-18 mpg lead footing my 5.7 crewmax 4x4 all day long vs. 21 mpg with the smaller motor while driving like I'm 86 and nearly getting rear ended every time I merge or pull into traffic.

Heck, with a crewmax 4x4 5.7 I managed nearly 19 mpg with under 500 miles on the clock, cruising 60-65 on a 1000 mile road trip, with two 200 pound people in the truck and a backseat loaded with 5 months worth of luggage. But that was the break-in honeymoon period, I know I'll probably never see it again cause I'll never drive like that again unless I'm passing known speed traps.

I guess it all comes down to driving style. If you know you can drive the way you'll need to to regularly get 20 mpg plus, go for it. If you are not unfamiliar with the 3000 rpm-plus range, hold off until people have bought more of these things and had a chance to put a few more miles on them and report back.

 

I agree - I came back today driving the 4.6L but a work truck with no avg mpg indicator, no tow pkg meaning 3.90 vs. 4.10 rear end with the A/C on and disliked the power vs. the 5.7L. I really don't think the 3.9 vs. 4.10 should make that much of a difference. The way I see it, so far, is the 4.6L will take more of a lead foot to press the pedal down to pass, etc. compared to the 5.7L where I don't have to floor it to pass which in turn, gets better fuel economy by not having the engine work harder rpm wise. I just thought saving 1200 bucks would be worth it, but after talking to the 3rd dealership today and asking them their opinion, they said if you can afford it, get the 5.7L because you can never have too much power and if you ever want to sell it to someone pulling a 30 ft. travel trailer, they would require and want the 5.7L vs. the 4.6L which would work, but would labor the engine. Also, all 3 dealers said you will get the 1200 bucks extra for the 5.7L when you want to trade it in later and like they all said, about 75-80% of tundra sales are still the 5.7L and probably will continue to be that way unless gas goes back up to 4 bucks per gallon. Thanks all who responded!

 

If MPG is that much of an issue get the 6 cylinder motor. TBH I picked the Tundra over the other brands hugely because of that sweet 5.7 engine. Why do you think Ford and GM have scrambled to come up with a motor to compete with the Tundra 5.7?

Im sure the 4.6 is a fine motor and if your needs are mainly utilitarian and better MPG then maybe its the way to go. Im not sure you will be as thrilled with it as you may the 5.7

 

I know I won't be as thrilled with the 4.6L and you're right, ford and chevy had to catch up to compete with the 5.7L tundra engine. Heck, it takes chevy a 6.2L V8 to compete and just barely beat out the 5.7L in a race stock vs. stock and it costs 1,000's more to get in a 1/2 ton. I only pull 2-3,000 lbs. and I know the 4.6L would be adequate for my needs, but a V6, no thanks. I may be getting older, but I still like to move on out from the crowd when I need to, but no more smoking tires.

 

The V6 only gets roughly 1 mpg better than the 5.7 and a total lack of power.

The v6 has to work twice as hard in just about every situation thus not saving much fuel there.

 

I towed for years with my 4.7 and dreamed of the day I could get the 5.7... no way am I not having ALL THE POWER!


:fish2:

 

Why do you think Ford and GM have scrambled to come up with a motor to compete with the Tundra 5.7?

?? GM has relied on the Duramax for towing/pulling power for a very long time, offers the 6.0 across the board (also for a very long time) and has the 5.3L for lighter use and a little better economy. All are very solid engines. The 5.7 is a nice motor for sure, but I seriously doubt that GM engineers are too concerned. Management, on the other hand, are scrambling for survival.

The new 6.2L has a slight bump up in HP/torque over the 6.0, but a tuned 6.0 (e.g., TM reduced) has ample power to compete, and comes mated to a 6-spd. If anything, Toyota had to scramble to get the 4.6L out to compete with the 5.3 in the mid-range with better economy in mind.

 

?? GM has relied on the Duramax for towing/pulling power for a very long time, offers the 6.0 across the board (also for a very long time) and has the 5.3L for lighter use and a little better economy. All are very solid engines. The 5.7 is a nice motor for sure, but I seriously doubt that GM engineers are too concerned. Management, on the other hand, are scrambling for survival.

The new 6.2L has a slight bump up in HP/torque over the 6.0, but a tuned 6.0 (e.g., TM reduced) has ample power to compete, and comes mated to a 6-spd. If anything, Toyota had to scramble to get the 4.6L out to compete with the 5.3 in the mid-range with better economy in mind.

Im talking current half ton trucks here.

 

I bought a 4.6 DC about two weeks ago. My first fill up was half a tank worth of short stop and go. I got 15mpg. The second fill up had a few highway trips and I got 17 mpg. Understand though, that my truck still only has about 250 miles on it.

I just felt compelled to post after seeing almost unreal numbers posted by others.

My 4cyl 05 Camry avgs 25mpg, I dont think my Tundra ever will.

 

Don't forget that you can also supercharge the 5.7 hehehe...

 

One thing I noticed that... after I switch from dino oil to Mobil 1 synthetic oil... I get more MPG.

I have a 2007 tundra 5.7L SR5. Before I put the Snugtop camper on, I average about 17.6 mpg - 18.0 mpg. After I put the Snugtop camper, I get only 14.1 - 14.6 mpg average even with a TRD CAI.

Two week ago, I decided to do an oil change @home instead at the dealer. I switched from dino oil to Mobil 1 synthetic... I average about 17.4 - 17.6mpg... I thought I was smoking.. but verify with the second tank of gas... I still get around 17.4 mpg average. I can't believe it makes a big difference between dino oil vs. synthetic oil.

mtgmike - you're in a break-in period... you'll get more mpg later.

 

5.7 CREWMAX gets mid 16's with reasonable 18 275/65 tires MIXED DRIVING.

Not bad IMHO.

If you want gas mileage and less umph, get the 4.6.
But don't B@@CH later that you should have got the 5.7!!

 

5.7 CREWMAX gets mid 16's with reasonable 18 275/65 tires MIXED DRIVING.

Not bad IMHO.

If you want gas mileage and less umph, get the 4.6.
But don't B@@CH later that you should have got the 5.7!!

 

My 2000 AC with the 4.7 V8 only wished it could bet 18 mpg on the highway. I get better gas mileage with the 5.7 - now that is impressive.


:fish2:

 

Thanks all who have posted. I happened to stop in today and signed an offer to purchase on a 2010 double cab 4wd SR5 equipped salsa red with black interior msrp 34703 tundra for about 60 bucks over invoice. They had 2 twins the same price exact same color/options in the 5.7L and I decided to not take the chance I would regret later if I wanted or needed the oomph of the 5.7L and had the 4.6L instead for 1200 bucks cheaper. I'll wait and see a year or two from now postings on 4.6L tundra owners and decided to not be the guinea pig with a fairly new motor although pretty much a smaller clone of the 5.7L in the 4.7L size. I guess the only thing I will regret is not saving about 250 bucks a year in gas, but if you average it out to 20 bucks per month and only 5 bucks per week, I can live with that. If they had a 4.6L in the salsa red identically equipped, it would be a tough decision, luckily they did not. The 3 dealers I talked to said you will get back almost all of the 1200 bucks extra come trade in time 2-5 years from now. The only difference between the 2 trucks were the passenger 18" tires. The one I took had BF goodrich (hope better tread life) dueler H/T's vs. the other red one had michelins on it in similar passenger tread pattern. Dealer said they are about the same tire - what do you all think BF goodrich or Michelin's (not sure of number on sidewall)?

 

Thanks all who have posted. I happened to stop in today and signed an offer to purchase on a 2010 double cab 4wd SR5 equipped salsa red with black interior msrp 34703 tundra for about 60 bucks over invoice. They had 2 twins the same price exact same color/options in the 5.7L and I decided to not take the chance I would regret later if I wanted or needed the oomph of the 5.7L and had the 4.6L instead for 1200 bucks cheaper. I'll wait and see a year or two from now postings on 4.6L tundra owners and decided to not be the guinea pig with a fairly new motor although pretty much a smaller clone of the 5.7L in the 4.7L size. I guess the only thing I will regret is not saving about 250 bucks a year in gas, but if you average it out to 20 bucks per month and only 5 bucks per week, I can live with that. If they had a 4.6L in the salsa red identically equipped, it would be a tough decision, luckily they did not. The 3 dealers I talked to said you will get back almost all of the 1200 bucks extra come trade in time 2-5 years from now. The only difference between the 2 trucks were the passenger 18" tires. The one I took had BF goodrich (hope better tread life) dueler H/T's vs. the other red one had michelins on it in similar passenger tread pattern. Dealer said they are about the same tire - what do you all think BF goodrich or Michelin's (not sure of number on sidewall)?

It sounds like you went with the 5.7 motor? It was a bit hard to tell by your post?

 

The only reason I traded in was for the 5.7 ,I doubt any motor is going to be significantly better in this heavy chasis. I average 17-18 which is pretty damn good for a 5k# 400 pony truck!

 

Yes, I did bite the bullet and traded my 07' tundra double cab sr5 TRD 4wd (timberline green mica- I almost cried when I left since no one within a 1,000 mile radius has that sharp looking color and it was clean as new) with 25.5K mileage for 23K trade in (paid around 29K 2 years ago) today for a 2010 identically equipped tundra double cab except salsa red with black interior, $510 upgraded radio worth every penny for 36 preset stations and better/brighter lighting of numbers with information display and also bluetooth, USB port, and steering wheel radio controls which I love, NON TRD (TRD rode rougher I hope since firmer bilstein shocks and wasn't worth the extra 800 bucks invoice price just to get the meaty looking very sharp alloy wheels that I love) msrp of 34703 - 2703 off (about 68 bucks over invoice) - 1750 rebate = 30,250 cost - 23K trade in out the door. I hope the salsa red pearl grows on me like the very limited production of timberline mica green did.

For those 2007-2010 potential tundra buyers, I requested and the dealer's are able to do which they did for free before delivery is disable the power door locks to NOT lock at speed or out of park, brighten the intensity of the clock, temp, mpg. display in the middle of the dash since on bright days is hard to see, and disable the seat belt warning chime on both driver and passenger sides if you are not wearing your seat belts. So far, so good with 130 miles on it now and averaged 20 mpg exactly driving it babied style on the interstate home going 60 mph. Boy, how I wanted to drive 70 mph like normal - I hated getting blown by from a prius or fit for two on the interstate. One thing I did not know is all 2010 tundras are being supplied with semi-synthetic motor oil from the factory and dealers are being told by Toyota to run/change oil either semi or full synthetic in all the new 2010 engines. I asked why tonight since I do not use synthetic, and the salesman had no idea. Any ideas on why Toyota would do this finally after 3 years in production????? He said it shouldn't void my engine warranty using non-synthetic, but I better do my research just in case.

I could have played the waiting game and see if the rebates would have gone up in August or September since my trade in would not have gone down more than a few hundred bucks in 1-2 months, but did not want to take the chance of rebates actually going down and my exact truck was there NOW which is very hard to find with limited 2010's at dealerships where I live. I had to drive 110 miles one way three different times in the past week to test drive/pick out with family, sign offer to purchase another day, and tonight take delivery.

 

In a simple word = slippery.

I have changed dino oil at 3,000 mile and when I pinch it between my finger tips it feels like dirty water. Do the same thing with synthetic oil and it is still slippery.

less friction = less heat and more power.

:ranger: