I just bought a 2016 Toyota Sequoia. It's at the stock Heighth and I'd like to put a 2" lift with the bushings possibly or if I would have to go to the suspension lift if I went that high then also if I did go to the 2" lift what the biggest tire size I could go without rubbing. Please help!
2016 Toyota Sequoia lift/tire size help
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Hope someone can add to this. I'm in a very similar situation looking to lift a 2016 Sequoia SE. I'd like to put 35x1350R20 tires on it.
Thoughts on the following?
3" OME front lift kit with shocks and coils
For the rear: Dobinsons 2" lift coils #c59-578 and Bilstein rear shock*33-187280
Vision Off-Road*Manic 20 X10 5-150.00 -25 BKGLMS
Nitto Ridge Grappler 35 /13.50R20 126Q F2 BSW
Thoughts on the following?
3" OME front lift kit with shocks and coils
For the rear: Dobinsons 2" lift coils #c59-578 and Bilstein rear shock*33-187280
Vision Off-Road*Manic 20 X10 5-150.00 -25 BKGLMS
Nitto Ridge Grappler 35 /13.50R20 126Q F2 BSW
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I just got off the phone with Dobinson. They recommended to me C59-477. I wonder what the difference is between the C59-578 and the C59-477.
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Looks like C59-578 is a 3 inch lift spring for the front.
https://www.amazon.com/Dobinsons-C59-578-Springs-Toyota-2007-2017/dp/B01NAO2POJ?tag=mpulse04-20
C59-477 is the correct number for a 1.8 inch lift spring for the rear of a Gen2 Sequoia.
https://www.dobinsonsprings.com/index.php/toyota-4x4-suspension
https://www.dobinsonsprings.com/index.php/component/edocman/?task=document.viewdoc&id=466&Itemid=
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I have a 2010 5.7L V8 Limited Sequoia and wanted to put 35x12.5xR20 MTs. The shop and I did some measurements and it looks to be super tight. Not only was there risk of rubbing when the tire was turned but also risk of rubbing the control arm. They recommended a spacer in the front and a minimum of 3" lift. I also found this online: Ready Lift 2008-17 2&4WD Toyota Sequoia 3" lift kit Product No: 69-5015 RL
ReadyLift Toyota Sequoia 3" lift kit 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
That states: Compatibility with a 4wd 2008-2017 Sequoia includes Tire Size: 35x12.50 tire on a 9" wheel with 6" of backspacing (+25)rims; or 285/65/20 on 20x8.5 rims.
Now it's not only the height that effects rubbing, in fact you could argue that width is a greater problem to deal with and I'm not sure that 13.5" will fit in there. To test this, turn your wheel all the way to the left, then back it off a smidge, get out and look at the front left wheel. Put a measuring tape up to it. Stock tires (at least mine) were 10.8" wide, so add. Almost 3 inches (as you prob need a spacer) to that and see if you get rub. Keep in mind that stick tires are 32" so going to 35" you'll need to bring that tire 1.5" closer to the well.
I'm looking for some feedback on the forums on the Ready lift I mentioned above and regarding the wheel, I was hoping to use my current stock 20" rims to save money which I believe are 8" wide with a 60mm offset. I'm not sure if these would work with the Ready Lift above?
Can anyone provide insight on these issues?
Thanks.
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I'm also trying to put 35x12.5xR20 on my 2010 Sequoia. Now for the 12.5" wide I found this: Ready Lift 2008-17 2&4WD Toyota Sequoia 3" lift kit Product No: 69-5015 RL. Comes with:
- front strut extensions
- Rear coil spring spacers
- Front sway bar mount spacers
- Differenital drop spacers
- Rear shock extensions
- Skid plate spacers
That product states: Compatibility with a 4wd 2008-2017 Sequoia includes Tire Size: 35x12.50 tire on a 9" wheel with 6" of backspacing (+25)rims or 285/65/20 on 20x8.5 rims
I was hoping to use my current stock 20" rims to save money which I believe are 8" wide with a 60mm offset which I don't know if that would work with the above (can anyone help with this?)
Given you want to put 13.5 wide, I'm skeptical that you'll get them on there without rub. If you turn your wheels all the way to the left, then back it off a smidge and get out and look at your front left tire, you'll see that if you went to a 35" which is 1.5" longer on one side than the stock 32s, plus 13.5 wide, which the stock is 10.8 wide I believe, your right into the mud flaps. I know guys usually take those flaps off but still going to be tight. Then the width also poses the problem of rubbing the control arm from what I've been told. Guys at my local shop said they recommended a spacer. I'm new to this stuff so I hope I haven't given any misinformation and if so, apologies in advance.
*UPDATE*
Spoke to Ready Lift Tech Support. For my 12.5 inch tire, he said my stock 8" rims with 60mm backspacing will not work without rubbing unless I used a 1" wheel spacer. I also asked about 13.5" for you and he said that it would require significant trimming in the wheel well and a larger wheel spacer for sure or your not getting that on without rubbing. Now this is for the Ready Lift kit, not yours so there may be a difference. Hope this helps.
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Alex:
Take a look at the spacing between your front tire and the upper control arm. You want to leave some margin there. That's one reason 12.5" wide tires need wheels with less offset (preferably) or wheel spacers if limited by budget. However, you don't want to push the tires out too far as that just makes rubbing on the fender liner worse at full lock. Do some research on what others have done to fit 35 x 12.5. Remember Tundras (at least 2007 - 2013) share the same front suspension components as Sequoias, so everything applicable to Tundra applies to your truck.
Personally I wouldn't recommend the ReadyLift package. Do some reading about coilovers vs. front spacers. Lifting the front with coilovers is a better way to go for BC forest roads. Take a look at Bilstein 5100, 6112, plus other adjustable coilovers.
For lifting the rear to keep the truck level you can use coil spring spacers or different springs. I would recommend extended length shocks appropriate for the amount of lift you choose. I would stay away from rear shock extensions; at full compression you don't want the shock/extension combination to bottom out before you hit the bumpstop. Bilstein 5100s seem to be fine for up to 2" of rear lift. Beyond that custom shocks with 20" or more of extended length may be required.
Take a look at the spacing between your front tire and the upper control arm. You want to leave some margin there. That's one reason 12.5" wide tires need wheels with less offset (preferably) or wheel spacers if limited by budget. However, you don't want to push the tires out too far as that just makes rubbing on the fender liner worse at full lock. Do some research on what others have done to fit 35 x 12.5. Remember Tundras (at least 2007 - 2013) share the same front suspension components as Sequoias, so everything applicable to Tundra applies to your truck.
Personally I wouldn't recommend the ReadyLift package. Do some reading about coilovers vs. front spacers. Lifting the front with coilovers is a better way to go for BC forest roads. Take a look at Bilstein 5100, 6112, plus other adjustable coilovers.
For lifting the rear to keep the truck level you can use coil spring spacers or different springs. I would recommend extended length shocks appropriate for the amount of lift you choose. I would stay away from rear shock extensions; at full compression you don't want the shock/extension combination to bottom out before you hit the bumpstop. Bilstein 5100s seem to be fine for up to 2" of rear lift. Beyond that custom shocks with 20" or more of extended length may be required.
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Hey thanks for the info. After reading up on it coilovers definitely seems the better way to go. Research though has proven to be inconclusive for me as to whether I can get 35x12.50 tires on my 2nd Gen sequoia with Bilstein 5100s. I even called Bilstein and tech guy said not without significant cutting to make them fit. Do you know that I could get these tires on without rubbing? I'm ok removing mud flaps and such but don't want to incur cost in cutting to make them fit.
Also, I'm a but of a noob so I just wanted to clarify, your saying 5100s in the front extended to maximum (2.5" lift) and 5100s in the rear extended to 2" and I should be good to fit these tires without any other parts?
Thanks.
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For the rear, yes. Not sure how much trimming will be needed for the front. It appears that a wheel offset of about +35 to +25 mm ( or 1.25" wheel spacer) is ideal. You might get a better idea from threads such as these:
What do you have to do to a tundra to fit 35's with few mods? - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum
Bilstein 5100 on top setting with 1 coachbuilder shim? - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum
Leveled with 35's - post em here! - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum
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Hey Climber,
Thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction! After reading hundreds of posts, which I might add you were part of so many of those discussions, I think I'm giving up on 35x12.50R18s and going with 295/70R18 because I might be able to get the 35s to fit but due to towing a rig and putting a lot of weight in the back when off-roading, I need to keep as much rake as possible and I don't want to go the custom spring route.
Having said that, I was thinking of this setup:
-295/70R18 Tires (34.25"x11.6")
-9" wheels with a positive offset of 25
-Bilstein 5100s in the Front on 3rd setting for 2.56" lift
-Bilstein 5100s in the rear with a 2" coil spacer. (do you recommend any particular 2" spacer?)
From what I read, that setup should work for me with the usual mud flap removal and skid plate trimming, etc. What do you think? Would you do anything different with the wheel ie) different width or offset?
If you think it's going to be tight in the front I could add one CB shim to bring it to 3" right? But then I'm decreasing rake even more which I was trying to stay away from.
Thanks again for helping out a new guy!
Alex.
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I like that setup much better. You should have less issues. No need for CB shims. With 295/70 you could probably get by without wheel spacers on the stock rims (+60 offset). +35 would also be fine if you feel the need for the wider stance. No real need to go to +25. I guess it just comes down to what offset is available in the wheels you like.
I think there are a few people out there who use those tires on completely stock trucks. Probably all you need to do in that case is bend the stock skid plate and remove/trim mud flaps/fender liners.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/122485-275-or-295-70-oem-wheels/
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/112369-installed-295-70-nitto-terra-grapplers/
Regarding coil spring spacers, all I know is in the following thread. Note the 3:2 lift/thickness ratio.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/143820-sequoia-gen2-rear-spring-spacer-diy/
I've seen very inexpensive welded-steel coil-spring steel spacers on ebay but I don't know of anyone who has admitted to trying them. Also Dobinsons is now selling an off-the shelf coil spring which gives lift and additional spring rate; again don't know of anyone who has reported results yet.
In addition to the Revtek 441R spacers I'm still running Coil SumoSprings in the summer; those really help to reduce sag with a lot of weight in the back without changing ride quality in any noticeable way. If those are of any interest I can give further details on how to choose the right part number for your setup.
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Hmm after reading those threads, I could save myself a bunch of money for the time being by using my stock wheels. I worked out the cost and with new tires, wheels, front and rear Bilsteins, rear Revtek Spacers, installation balancing and allignment I'm looking at $4000 Cdn after tax. I could save about $1000 of that if I used stock rims. In that case I would go 295/60R20 which is pretty close to a 34"tire with the same width. I think I'm going to use the Revtek rear spacer for sure but yes, I would be interested in the SumoSpring if you wouldn't mind letting me know the part number I need. If I use a Revtek rear spacer and the SumoSpring, I assume I still need to use the rear Bilsteins shocks because the stock ones won't accommodate the 2" lift from the Revtek spacer, correct?
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I guess I didn't realize you are on 20" wheels. Throwing some random thoughts out here... Will the tire shop do a check fit to make sure everything will fit properly before you have to commit to the tire purchase? Wondering if it would be a mistake to invest all that coin in 20" tires when you really want to go to 18" ultimately? Just an idea - maybe you can find some OEM 18" wheels cheap (craigslist?) or find another source for aftermarket wheels. Can you run down to Bellingham and get them cheaper than in Vancouver? I got my wheels on a holiday sale (Labor Day is coming soon) from Discount Tire for about $400 US after rebates, including new lugnuts (not including mounting and balancing). How bad would you get hit by customs on bringing something like that into Canada?
I see I made a short writeup on the Coil SumoSprings in post #7 here:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/153521-is-your-sequoia-rear-end-sagging/#post1796801
and post #29 here:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/143820-sequoia-gen2-rear-spring-spacer-diy-2/#post1813842
The important thing to measure is the spacing between the central coil turns on your truck with the rear wheels off the ground. In my case, after installing the Revtek rear spacer I had to switch from the CSS-1195 model (inner height about 1.95 inches) to the CSS-1168 (inner height about 1.68 inches) because of the preload on the springs due the spacer.
And you are correct about needing the rear 5100s after the lift.
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Thanks for all that info!
To answer your questions, not sure if the tire shops would check if everything fit b4 I committed, they would have to have the tire in stock. Also, I have found that after checking everywhere online,US & Canada, I always seem to find the tires cheaper on Ebay and although the tires are new and covered by manufacturers warranty, if I had to return them for any reason ide be S.O.L
For Duty and taxes, customs charges 12% after conversion of the price from USD->Cdn. So for example, if I got wheel at say $400USD as you did, it would convert to $505.52CDN + $60.66 (Customs) = $566.18CDN
That would be awesome if I could get the wheels for that price. Many online places have free shipping to US destinations and I can ship to a company directly across the boarder to PT. Roberts (45min drive). Maybe I'll check out Labor day specials.
Thanks again.
Alex.
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Hey Climber,
Have another question for you. I am going to go with the 295/70R18s with Bilstein 5100s in the front set to 2.5" and for the rear I was going to go with the Revtech 2" spacer and the Dobinsons spring (1.77" lift over stock), which would give me 2.77" lift. This way I can keep some rake as I mentioned before.
My question is, above you mentioned over 2" of rear lift I would need a longer shock of 20" or more. Do you know what length range would be safe for the 2.77" lift to prevent bottoming and topping out the shock? The problem I'm seeing is doing the measurements without the spacer and longer spring already installed. If I can figure that out then I can do some hunting for the shock and finally pull the trigger on my setup.
EDIT:Just remembered the 2:3 lift ratio you mentioned, does that apply to the extended Dobinsons springs too or just the spacer? What would my final lift be using 2" Revtech and 1.77" additional lift Dobinsons and as per my question above, Do you know what length range of shock would be safe for the lift to prevent bottoming and topping out the shock?
Thanks!
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How much rake do you have now? I'm thinking that new stock Gen2 Sequoias have a rake of about 1 inch. But based on my experience the rear may sag some over time. If you already have sag that might factor into the equation.
The front lift for the adjustable 5100s and the rear lift from the Revtek spacers can be considered to be pretty much a known quantity as many have done this and reported results that seem pretty consistent. You can expect about 2.0 to 2.25" net lift from the 1 - 11/16" thick Revtek spacer (after accounting for removal of the 0.25" spring isolator and the 3:2 lift/thickness ratio).
Now the Dobinsons are kind of an unknown quantity since I'm not aware of anyone installing them and reporting the actual lift. I guess you could call Dobinsons USA and see what they say. Presumably they are just going to say install them and you'll get about 45 mm of lift compared to new (not sagging) factory springs. Their engineers should be smart enough to choose the spring length and spring rate to give the amount of lift they advertise accounting for the geometry of the suspension. But I don't know whether Dobinsons is more or less accurate than Revtek (which says their rear spacer lift is 1.5" when it actually gives 2 to 2.25")! Also, if you already have rear sag, the amount of lift you will get from a new spring would be correspondingly greater.
If you stacked the Dobinsons and the Revtek, would not the rear lift be 1.77 + 2.25 = 4 inches? Do you really need that much rear lift? I don't think it would be a problem for CV angle but you could be getting to the point that there wouldn't be a great deal of droop left. If I remember correctly, with my truck on jack stands if I disconnect the 5100 shock, the wheel will drop about another 1 inch without binding the suspension. According to the Bilstein specs, the extended length of the 5100 shock is 19.3" and the collapsed length is 13.7".
Specs of Gen2 Sequoia Rear Bilstein 5100
So for your application, I would think a shock with appropriate valving and a collapsed length of 13.7" or less and an extended length of about 20 to 20.5 inches is probably near ideal. I would suggest that you may want to put your truck on jackstands and do some measurements of the amount of droop with and without the shock connected to see if you concur. The truck is designed to have the shock be the limiter under droop so I don't think you want so much shock extension that the suspension is binding at the end of down travel.
Stom_m3 has stated that the custom Fox shocks he is using with his 2 3/8" rear lift have an extended length of 20 inches.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/123361-rear-suspension-shock-solution-lifted-sequoias/
n2thewild is the only one I know that is reporting a rear lift of 4". It would be interesting to find out what is the extended length of his custom Radflo shocks.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/185001-2008-sequoia-sr5-overlander/
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Rather than continuing to guess, I took a couple of measurements:
1) OEM rear fender height (Estimated) 37"
OEM fender to center of wheel (32" tire) 22"
2) My fender ht. (5100s, Revtek spacer, 33" tires, old saggy springs) 39"
Fender to center of wheel 23.5"
Net lift relative to estimated OEM 1.5"
3) My truck jacked up so both rear wheels off the ground:
Fender to center of wheel 27"
Max. wheel droop (as limited by 5100 shocks) 3.5"
From this I would conclude that a truck with 2.5" of rear lift would still have 2.5" of rear wheel droop using 5100s. Not sure, but that might be a reasonable number. Now I'm not convinced that expensive custom shocks with even more extension would really be necessary to give good ride quality. Anyone else care to comment? How much droop is necessary to maintain ride quality?
1) OEM rear fender height (Estimated) 37"
OEM fender to center of wheel (32" tire) 22"
2) My fender ht. (5100s, Revtek spacer, 33" tires, old saggy springs) 39"
Fender to center of wheel 23.5"
Net lift relative to estimated OEM 1.5"
3) My truck jacked up so both rear wheels off the ground:
Fender to center of wheel 27"
Max. wheel droop (as limited by 5100 shocks) 3.5"
From this I would conclude that a truck with 2.5" of rear lift would still have 2.5" of rear wheel droop using 5100s. Not sure, but that might be a reasonable number. Now I'm not convinced that expensive custom shocks with even more extension would really be necessary to give good ride quality. Anyone else care to comment? How much droop is necessary to maintain ride quality?
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After reading this I'm going to drop the Dobinsons idea for now. I too must have old droopy springs as I sit 36.0" to the center of both my front and rear fenders. Which is why when I tow I sit ass heavy and was trying to regain rake. Given that you sit at 36" in the rear on stock 32" tires and now sit 39" with 33" tires, your getting 1/2" lift from the larger tire and therefore 2.5" from the 1.5" Revtek spacer (did I get that right?). Based on this, if I go 5100s in the front set to 2.5" and a Revtek/5100s in the rear which would also give me 2.5" lift and then replace my rear springs with OEM's I could get another 1 inch (assuming we have lost an inch on our springs over time). Am I correct then in estimating 3.5" rear lift compared to where I'm sitting now with my droopy springs if I do this?
As for how much droop is necessary to maintain ride quality I cannot speak to this.
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From what I know, 3 to 3.5" seems a reasonable expectation. You might check the rear fender height of new models at the dealer as a reality check.
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