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Discussion Starter #1
Is it worth bringing it to the dealer and spending about $300 or are you better off doing it yourself?


OIL
TOP OFF FLUIDS
TIRE PRESSURE
REPLACE SPARK PLUGS (RESISTOR ONLY)
DRAIN AND REPLACE COOLANT

etc...
 

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I am interested in the same info. Especially in what's involved in this:
- Re-torque propeller shaft bolt.

Any ideas?

Bigwillie, thanks for posting this. It remeinded me that I wanted to ask the same for a while. Hopefully some of the experts here will chip in!
 

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this is definitely a do-it-yourself'er:tu:. and you will save yourself alot of money by doing so also! coolant doesnt need to be replaced until like 100k miles....look @ your radiator cap or the surrounding areas, it will say "super long life coolant", just a money making scheme @ the stealership! and you may want to change out your rear diff fluid(im doin mine @ 20k miles with synthetic gear oil, then im gonna do it every 30k after that!), as its easy to do! hope this helps!



stevegillings....the retorqing the "propeller shaft bolt" is talking about the driveshaft(i know this much), as far as whats involved, hopefully someone else will answer this, as i hear it only pertains to 4x4"s! unsure exactly what they do though??!!
 

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I've been dealing with "Stealerships" since my first NEW car. That was a 1966 SS 396 Chevelle. Things have changed since then. The cars today are FAR Superior in reliability. One thing that has not changed: THEY are still after your money.

The dealership does NOT make money when they sell you a car. They make money by getting you back to do stuff that is NOT necessary and you DO NOT need. Gentlemen: YOU are driving a TOYOTA. The most reliable automobile in the world. I have owned them since 1974.

Change the OIL and FILTER every 3-4,000 miles. Definately. Do it yourself OR have the dealer do it. DO NOT be "Sucked IN" to OTHER stuff that they tell you you need. Change the engine coolent??? ...Every 100,000 miles... maybe. I have NEVER changed the coolent. EVER. I just sold my "95 Taco with 141,000 miles and I never had a problem with the cooling system.

30,000 mile "checkup" for $300 bucks??? NOT HAPPENING. 60,000 mile "checkup"??? NOT HAPPENING. 90,000 mile "checkup"?? NOT HAPPENING.

Have I got an "attitude?? YOU Bet, and I've also got a LOT of money in my pocket that I didn't spend on ...well ...you tell me. Best Regards: TacoGuy
 

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TacoGuy, thanks for the reply, but I have a question:

Change the OIL and FILTER every 3-4,000 miles.
Any insider info behind this? Toyota recommends every 5K miles, and I think that should be sufficient. Why so much more often?


Gentlemen: YOU are driving a TOYOTA. The most reliable automobile in the world.
LOL! That was a good one!
I have always bought new vehicles, and none has been in the shop as much as my '06 Tacoma has been. Actually, I think that in one year of ownership I spent more in gas getting that thing to the dealer and back than I have spent in repair bills on my previous S-10 in 8 years.
Not really funny, but true ....
 

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If you got the V6 tacoma CHANGE your spark plugs. Mine were .010 past max at 40k.

Oil change, Air filter, Spark PLugs, and grease the drive shafts uni joints. I grease the uni joints every time I change the oil.

If you think that is worth 300 bucks. then have the dealer do it, but your wasting your money if you do.
 

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TacoGuy, thanks for the reply, but I have a question:

Any insider info behind this? Toyota recommends every 5K miles, and I think that should be sufficient. Why so much more often?



LOL! That was a good one!
I have always bought new vehicles, and none has been in the shop as much as my '06 Tacoma has been. Actually, I think that in one year of ownership I spent more in gas getting that thing to the dealer and back than I have spent in repair bills on my previous S-10 in 8 years.
Not really funny, but true ....
Hi Steve: Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Taco. If you always use the same dealer for repairs, you might consider a Different dealer to have your work done.

Back in 1979 I bought a New Honda Accord. (One of two) The transmission would pop out of gear from day one. The dealer took the transmission out of the car 5 different times, and every time I got it back there was a new problem with the trans. I actually spent a day out of work hanging around the shop "monitoring" the work being done. They had their most senior mechanic doing the work. At the end of that day, the transmission was nearly undriveable. I drove it out of there and took it to another dealer 30 miles away and told them the story. They took the car in and fixed it on the first try and I never had another problem.

What oil to use..Dino Vs. Mobil-1 lets say, and how often to change it has always seemed to be a big debate. Actually, I change my oil every 3-4000 miles. Sometimes up to 5,000 miles. I change the filter every time I change the oil. I guess a lot of this has a lot to do with personal "Comfort Factor". I just feel comfortable doing it that way. Everyone has their own comfort factor which may be what makes "The OIL question" such a constant topic of interest.

As an aside, the other day I asked my dealer service writer what they would charge for a Mobil-1 oil change. Dino oil changes at my dealer are $24.95. The guy said "probably" about $65-70 bucks. He further added that Toyota NO Longer recommends Synthetic oil. I guess one could argue that Toyota WANTS your engine to wear out faster. :) I have always used Dino oil. Best Regards:TacoGuy
 

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Thats a good one...Synthetic has proven itself in every test. I'll take the lab results I've seen as evidence. I'd like to talk to this service guy further where he's really getting this information from, is it really Toyota or is it his opinion, I would bet it's the latter, and what evidence does he has that synthetic is bad for the Toyota engine?
. He further added that Toyota NO Longer recommends Synthetic oil. I guess one could argue that Toyota WANTS your engine to wear out faster. :) I have always used Dino oil. Best Regards:TacoGuy
 

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I change my oil every 3-4000 miles. Sometimes up to 5,000 miles. I change the filter every time I change the oil.
Oil gets awfully dark in 5K miles, which is why I now change every 3-4K -- and always, always change the filter at each oil change. :tu:

TacoGuy said:
I have always used Dino oil.
Same here -- synthetic is possibly better in extreme conditions, but dino does an excellent job and is so much less expensive. And oil-related engine failures are incredibly rare -- if they exist at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the info.

How much are the fluids (coolant, power steering, brake) at the dealer? Is it worth getting Toyota brand or am I better off getting it at Kragen or something.

I need to add more coolant.
 

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Yes, synthetic has an intitial higher upfront cost vs dino, however; requires significantly less oil changes and (at least amsoil 2000 series) has improved gas mileage slightly. Cost based analysis is almost even. However; some may not feel they want to run any oil for long extended periods of time and I could appreciate that.
Same here -- synthetic is possibly better in extreme conditions, but dino does an excellent job and is so much less expensive. And oil-related engine failures are incredibly rare -- if they exist at all.
 

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Thanks for the info.

How much are the fluids (coolant, power steering, brake) at the dealer? Is it worth getting Toyota brand or am I better off getting it at Kragen or something.

I need to add more coolant.
My dealer gets $24.95 for an Oil/Filter change and "top off fluids". The only fluid that might need topping off is the windshield washer fluid..and my dealer charges $0.99 for that no matter how much fluid it needs. They ask you, before they start, if you want them to top off the washer fluid. I always opt out. The "other" fluids should almost NEVER need topping off.

Another aside: My dealer will send a driver up to 50 miles out.. to get your car, drop off a loaner, bring your car back to the dealership, change the oil. etc and return your car to where they picked it up. $24.95. NO strings. They have been doing this for over twelve years. They don't advertise on the radio. They have a booming business.

From my previous posts, you might get the impression I am Anti dealership. Lets just say, I recognise good service and am willing to give credit where credit is due. I am lucky: My dealer is a cut above the rest. Regards: TacoGuy
 

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I agree that we are driving Toyota's and I have never been stranded sence
I started buying them back in 1989.
I do use AMS/OIL 2000, 0W30 and change oil every 7,500, I do change
filter at 4,000.
 

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What grease are you using for the uni's & what is a good synthetic gear oil for the diff?
not sure about grease for the uni's..i have a prerunner with no grease zerks:(
but as far as gear oil....mobil1, redline, royal purple....all good synthetics if thats the way you want to go! im going with redline when i do my rear diff!
 

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not sure about grease for the uni's..i have a prerunner with no grease zerks:(
but as far as gear oil....mobil1, redline, royal purple....all good synthetics if thats the way you want to go! im going with redline when i do my rear diff!
I also have a prerunner and its not a 4x4. So does that mean that we can't grease on drive shafts, since there are no zerk fittings? Please let me know.
 

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I use a NGL no. 2 grease called PL-10 from MPC, only because I have a case of this stuff.

Toyota recommends a molly type grease.

When I change out the pumpkin, x-fer case and tranny it will be with Mobil 1 syn gear oil 75-90W.
 

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I also have a prerunner and its not a 4x4. So does that mean that we can't grease on drive shafts, since there are no zerk fittings? Please let me know.
yes, we have no greasefittings!! im still not exactly sure why toyota did it this way with the prerunners??!! i guess you can always drill and tap in a set of zerks, but im guessing that would be a p.i.t.a.!!
 

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I've been dealing with "Stealerships" since my first NEW car. That was a 1966 SS 396 Chevelle. Things have changed since then. The cars today are FAR Superior in reliability. One thing that has not changed: THEY are still after your money.

The dealership does NOT make money when they sell you a car.

Gentleman let's review the facts.. Based on recent NADA and other financial analysis the above statement is opinion and NOT fact. Don't thake this the wrong way but rather an opportunity to look at the forrest through the trees when speaking about a dealership.

Fact: the back end of the store i.e. service department does not carry the front end of the store. See for yourself. Look at the image..





Next, look at your dealerships contribution to it's local economy and you see the benefits involved for all. It's big.. It is a business, yes. In business for business as it is not a non-profit organization.

Taxable sales for '05 totaled 69.3 billion fiscal '05. 7.2 billion for federal, state and local taxes in the state of California. Payroll taxes accounted for 879.4 million which benefits paid to employees was $5881 per year. Medical care, dental, retirement. CAlifornia dealers employed 149,523 persons in '05. Total payroll for '05 was 9.4 billion.

That is not chump change. Somehwere, someone is affected either directly or indirectly by the sale of that Toyota in your neighborhood. It could be the guy that delivers the oil, the Snap-on dealer, or an employee.

My figures are pulled from a report sent directly to the State of California Economic Impact report for 2006.

Before anymore "stealership" talk ensues try to think of the bigger picture involved.

Yes they are out to make a profit. Isn't that the essence of our great nation and why America leads the world in most every category..
 

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$25 for a oil change... lets see, drive the car on the lift, lift it up, pull the plug, walk off and smoke a cig while waiting for the oil to drain (or go work on something else), go back, put the plug back in, drop the truck, pull off the filter, install a new $2 filter, snake in the $1 a quart oil, preferably a quart over the limit.... mean while the customer is waiting an hour to get their vehicle back with the additional oil stains on the steering wheel, seat and door. So, for about 10 minutes worth of work they are making, lets say $19. I wish I made that much in 10 minutes time.

I was just discussing the 30k service with a co-worker, she has the same truck, except its a sport susp. After looking at the list of things they do I think I'll save myself about $250, go buy a new grease gun, some new fluid and do the work myself. I've always found that for the cost of service, you can easily buy the tools yourself, usually save a bit, and you always have the capability of doing it again in the future for the cost of the consumables.

I think the use of synthetic has more advantages over dino oil. First its less friction, better gas mileage. Less dino oil is being sucked out of the ground (maybe thats why the gas prices are so high, too many people going with syn). Less apt to break down due to high temps. Requires less frequent oil changes, especially with the Amsoil secondary filtration. Sure it costs a little more, but you get what you pay for.

One thing I really miss from being in the mil, is the auto hobby shops. I miss having a car lift around I can rent for a couple bucks an hour...
 
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