Toyota Tundra Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2008 5.7 Tundra,, it has been running fine, Came home (Canada) went out 2 days later and the Engine only spins and wont start. Its not firing at all. We have tried a different Key fob, we have disconnected the Battery for an hour,, Battery is fully charged , and we have sprayed ether into the intake,(yes I know ether is not good) and all we get is a engine that spins.. Any ideas and help would be super awesome.. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I have a 2008 5.7 Tundra,, it has been running fine, Came home (Canada) went out 2 days later and the Engine only spins and wont start. Its not firing at all. We have tried a different Key fob, we have disconnected the Battery for an hour,, Battery is fully charged , and we have sprayed ether into the intake,(yes I know ether is not good) and all we get is a engine that spins.. Any ideas and help would be super awesome.. Thanks


Looking for any ideas on getting my truck up and running.. It is my only way to get around.. I am not even sure If I posted the original post correctly.. I am very new to making a post.. sorry everyone
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
738 Posts
Start by checking fuses. Don't depend on a visual check, use an ohm meter and verify they are good. Then look for broken or damaged wiring. Many on here have had problems with critters chewing on the insulation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Start by checking fuses. Don't depend on a visual check, use an ohm meter and verify they are good. Then look for broken or damaged wiring. Many on here have had problems with critters chewing on the insulation.
Thanks for your reply. I Didn't think about fuses because the motor turns over.. it doesn't fire (try to actually start).. So ill check those... its been running great, then suddenly after sitting 2 days (in the cold) it wont start.. Its been very cold up where I am .. temps hovering around 0 to 20 deg.F... I wonder is it possible that there is not enough juice in the battery to make the engine Fire or start but still be able to turn the engine over ? The interior lights come on, radio plays BUT I did notice that when I turn the key to the start position My dash lights are not on.. and I am almost positive those always come on when I put the key in the ignition and get ready to start the truck... UGHH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
738 Posts
How old is the battery. Since you said it was fully charges, I assumed you had a charger on it. If it cranks over, I would not suspect the battery, but strange things happen with a battery that is failing.

When you say dash lights, are you referring to the lights that illuminate the dash, or all of the warning lights that typically come on as you turn the key?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
738 Posts
I do not recall if it shuts off after you insert the key, or after you start the truck. Do you have a second key to try? You said you tried a second key fob, but I usually think of that as the remote that you use to unlock the doors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
How old is the battery. Since you said it was fully charges, I assumed you had a charger on it. If it cranks over, I would not suspect the battery, but strange things happen with a battery that is failing.

When you say dash lights, are you referring to the lights that illuminate the dash, or all of the warning lights that typically come on as you turn the key?

I got the battery last summer from Auto Zone,, I probly shouldn't have said FULLY CHARGED.. I have always had starting problems in cold temps and had to jump start .. this is a every winter thing.. Toyota always said I didn't drive it enough on a daily bases,, cause they could never figure out what would drain the battery when temps where below freezing... So this winter I plug my battery into a good quality Battery Tender/trickle charger to stop the dead battery problem.... Hope that all made some since and that is why I said it was fully charged.. wrong choice of words sorry about that !!
I have heard that with Tundra's if the battery is slightly weak the motor can turn over but wont start.. I am like you, If the engine is turning over then the battery must be ok .. I have no idea.. I cant walk very well So I have never got into working on my vehicles so I am sort of DUMB when it comes to automotive stuff..


Dash lights.. If I am correct It seems like the whole dash will light up then all the warning lights blink off but the rest of the gages in the console remain lighted when I insert the key and turn it toward the start position, before starting the Truck .. I have never really paid much attention to that so I may be wrong ..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I do not recall if it shuts off after you insert the key, or after you start the truck. Do you have a second key to try? You said you tried a second key fob, but I usually think of that as the remote that you use to unlock the doors.
Thanks for replying
The buttons to unlock and lock the truck are part of a black remote that is separate from the actual key ,, the key is just that, a key with a thick black grip on it, only the Keys will start the truck,, and that black FOB looking thing unlocks and locks it... sorry for the confusion
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
738 Posts
The key may (I do not know if the 2008 has this), have a chip in it that works with the engine immobilizer. Occasionally the chip does not work. If you have a second key, that may be worth a try. This is completely separate, and not part of the fob being able to unlock the doors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The key may (I do not know if the 2008 has this), have a chip in it that works with the engine immobilizer. Occasionally the chip does not work. If you have a second key, that may be worth a try. This is completely separate, and not part of the fob being able to unlock the doors.
it does have a chip so I have been told.. I have a spare key and tried that.. I let the key stay in the ignition switch in the on position for 1 min which was a suggestion.. why I have no idea lol.. So Key problems are off my list of possibilities .... Thank you for the idea and the reply!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Problem is fixed. umm I guess ,, OK so went yesterday and got a new battery,, 890 Cold Cranking Amps.. came home stuck it in and wow started right up.. the old battery had 710 cold cranking amps. I have dead battery issues every time winter hits and the temps drop below freezing.. the battery goes TOTALY DEAD no nothing,, I have had 4 new batteries over the past 5 years all around 750 Cold cranking amps and 2 Dealerships cant find what drains the battery on cold nights below freezing.. GRRR..


This year with spending my winter in Canada I put a trickle charger on the old battery. Seemed to help.. till the current issue started.. ,,The now old Batter tested at 12.9 v.. without the engine running soooo WHAT I DONT UNDERSTAND is if the battery turns the engine over, The radio plays, interior lights come on, why wouldn't it actually start the truck ??
IM A REAL DUMMY when it come to me trying to be a mechanic,, So can one of you guys or gals who are good at Mechanics, Explain this to me ??


ALSO Id like to say Thanks to all of you who gave me ideas to try,, Thank you for your Replies .. Enjoy your Sunday
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,467 Posts
That is why you have to load test a battery to find out if it is good! There is a significant difference between what the battery voltage is at light loads and what it is at full load when the battery starts to fail due to a bad internal connection or a bad cell. The same can be true for a bad cable or connection.
There have been a LOT of new batteries that fail within the first year since battery production was moved offshore. For example, at one time Optima was a great battery for the price but since they moved their production to Mexico they are basically junk!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
That is why you have to load test a battery to find out if it is good! There is a significant difference between what the battery voltage is at light loads and what it is at full load when the battery starts to fail due to a bad internal connection or a bad cell. The same can be true for a bad cable or connection.
There have been a LOT of new batteries that fail within the first year since battery production was moved offshore. For example, at one time Optima was a great battery for the price but since they moved their production to Mexico they are basically junk!

Ok I understand what your saying,, I have had a battery issue every winter, The very1st night it goes below the Freezing mark, Batteries are dead.. Ill jump start the truck then it runs fine all day, starts fine runs fine, then the next cold night the battery is dead again.. I have gone to 3 Toyota Dealers and not one can figure out why this happens every winter.. This new battery I just purchased has a much higher cranking amp 890 cold cranking amps ,, all 4 of the previous batteries {thank god for lifetime warranty's } all of them had any where from 710 to 760 cold cranking amps,, and the new battery was a much more costly battery. At a cost of $210.00 bucks it better start a Boeing 747 lo.


I am currently up in Canada but the winters are no more extreme here then in Ohio.. so its not like its 30 below here, but we do get to about 10 below, So I wanted purchase a much better battery than a lower end battery that you pay 120.00 bucks for.. My theory was,, you get what you pay for !


I don't know if it makes a Difference but this truck has every Toy and gadget you could possibly order on a Tundra in 2008. Build in TV/DVD/CD player.. Heated Seats front and rear, rear climate control, heated Mirrors, GPS, Memory Steering column, Tow package. you name it its on this truck.. I know all this draws power but I think only when the truck is running correct ?? , Can any of this have a possible effect on how the battery charges or holds a charge ??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,467 Posts
There are some items on the Tundra that have a passive draw when the truck is off but that should not be significant enough to cause problems. Batteries simply do not like cold temperatures and will not have as much power output when cold. That is why a high CCA battery works better in cold weather.
My son bought a new Optima red top for his '02 Tundra after he moved to North Dakota. It failed withing a year. He replaced it with a new Interstate last fall which has worked fine so far. They often have morning lows in the minus 20-30 range.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
If you have time take the truck to the dealer and tell them your issue and have them do a start charge test and also a pairicitic draw test on the system, if they find a error then you know you have a problem and they should be able to find it.... If all the test come back good and within allowed amps drawing from the battery then you know it's your battery and your new one fixes the old issue...

P.S... Toyotas have a attitude problem with aftermarket parts, if your truck has any aftermarket parts or Gagets installed Toyotas usually throw a hissy fit and start to act up... I would always recommend getting OEM parts and have your usual mechanic you go to install the parts you don't have to go to the dealer all the time... All you need is a Technician / Mechanic that knows Toyotas and knows that they are picky, yes picky but the best vehicle you can buy hands down the best engine and drivetrain....

Optima Batteries are junk, once they die they are just a paper weight. They are gell and it will freeze up in 30 degrees.. Also make sure your battery has an insalator still installed from factory it helps so much to keep your batt from freezing, if you lost yours or someone tossed it I would invest in a new one..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
There are some items on the Tundra that have a passive draw when the truck is off but that should not be significant enough to cause problems. Batteries simply do not like cold temperatures and will not have as much power output when cold. That is why a high CCA battery works better in cold weather.
My son bought a new Optima red top for his '02 Tundra after he moved to North Dakota. It failed withing a year. He replaced it with a new Interstate last fall which has worked fine so far. They often have morning lows in the minus 20-30 range.

Thanks for the reply.. My old Battery, which was less than a year old, had 710 CCA,, the new one I just purchased has 890 CCA,, so I hope that higher CCA will help..
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top