[Sunnyside Scott]

I have owned my truck since April 5 and I am now done upgrading the stereo (for now, lol). It is a 2010 Tundra DC with non Jbl stereo system.
I originallly thought this was going to be a budget upgrade, but after looking at all of my reciepts I can see I spent a few bucks more than I thought.
My goal was to get great sound at a "Moderate level" with some base, and not replace my head unit, that came with XM and steering wheel bluetooth controls for my cell phone, as well as USB unput. I had my last truck for 12 years and I had replaced the stock speakers, stereo, and installed an 8" Bazooka under my rear seat. So I was after that same clean sound.
Here are my build components.

The first thing I did, with the help of this forum is do the rear seat Mod, I cut 1" off with a 1/4" taper of the seat tab.

Then I installed the Amp to the rear wall.

Next came the Sub build, I originally purchased a 10" Alpine Sub, but was unable to get the proper Cubic capacity for the box, even with removing the jack and bracket, so I went with the JL 8". It started as a sealed box, but I later changed it to get a boomier sound.

 

[JOCKTHEGLIDE]

is this a tundra? what type?

 

[Sunnyside Scott]

is this a tundra? what type?

Sorry guys, yes this is a 2010 Tundra DC 5.7, in Spruce Mica.
SScott

 

[Sunnyside Scott]

My sub requirement was to only use the Passenger side of the rear seat, because I am a sales Rep. and I need as much floor space as possible for hauling product.

Like I said in my earlier post, I went with the 8" sub because of the difficulty of getting the proper cubes, as well as the mounting depth of the original Alpine 10" that I had started with.

I also liked the JL sub, because they offered a speaker grill for a resonable price.

Problems:
One of my first issues was that I used both Male and Female wiring adaptes behind the stock head unit. One of the adapters did not have a wire, which turned out to be a ground wire for the dimmer, so when I turned on my lights, all the lights on the stereo face went out. Advice: Check both wiring harness for all wires.

I chose the Amp that I have because its small footprint, I had Ideas of mounting it under the passsenger seat, but I like having it on the rear wall so I can fine tune it easier.

Next issue, the Amp did not turn on by itself even with stereo signal going to the RCA jacks, like it said it would in the instructions. Advice: Run your amp turn on wire while you have everything tore apart, it is easier the first time.

Next issue, I chose to provide the amp with high level signals from the rear speakers.
Then My bluetooth phone didn't have audio, it turns out that the bluetooth uses the front speakers for sound. So I switched wires to the front speakers and the Bluetooth worked but the sub sounded pretty muted. Thats when I ported the box, which really didn't fix that issue. I ended up running the rear speaker signal to the amp (input B) to control the sub. Advice: run all high level signals from all speakers to the amp through high to low converters and into the RCA jacks. Channel A of the amp is running all four door speakers, and Cannnel B is Bridged and running the Amp.
Got to go to work, will add more later.
SScott

 

[Sunnyside Scott]

With the Amp and Sub installed the stereo sounded pretty good, for stock speakers.
At this point a person could stop if they wanted to and have a pretty good sounding system. I chose to push foreward, I started with changing my rear speakers and adding Dynamat to the inside face of the door skin, as well as a few flat areas on the door panel to use up the sheet. The Kit I purchased was 4 pcs. 1' x 3' each of sound matting, the change it made was substantial, the doors no longer have that clangy sound when you release the door handle and they feel as solid as a vault door.
I destroyed the old speakers and mounted mine inside of the frame, I wanted to use the splash guard that it has. I left the original speaker wire because it looked to me to be about 16 ga.
SScott

 

[JOCKTHEGLIDE]

looks awesome dude...guess not many people are into tundra sound systems here...
QUESTION: did you install that amp to the back of the cab itself? Im curious why not to the plastic part that goes back there? I used jack nuts to install mine to the back plastic pieces.

 

[Sunnyside Scott]

looks awesome dude...guess not many people are into tundra sound systems here...
QUESTION: did you install that amp to the back of the cab itself? Im curious why not to the plastic part that goes back there? I used jack nuts to install mine to the back plastic pieces.

Yes, I installed it to the cab itself, I screwed it through the plastic curtain and into the wall. I put some RTV on the screws and called it a day.
SScott

 

[Sunnyside Scott]

Next came the front door speakers. I owe a big thanks to KP TEXAN and his stereo thread, that is where I came up with my idea for mounting the front speakers and crossovers.
I wanted to run new wires for the front speakers so that I wouldn't have impedence issues with the dash speakers. There is no way to fish the wires through the door boot with out unplugging the wiring harnesses and pulling the boot out of the door.

I made my speaker adapters, I used 3/4" MDF with two coats of paint and 1 coat of clear. I got longer screws and used the existing holes with foam between the wood and the door. I also used the plastic trim piece to get a little more clearance to the window.

And the finished product, pretty much the same as all the others.
Stereo sounds great.
SScott

 

[red4rr]

Nice, I got the same door speakers. I also mounted my X over there, seemed like the best spot. The stock system sucks for such a nice truck. I just replaced my whole system a few months back. I had to add some bass and quality.

 

[Sunnyside Scott]

Nice, I got the same door speakers. I also mounted my X over there, seemed like the best spot. The stock system sucks for such a nice truck. I just replaced my whole system a few months back. I had to add some bass and quality.

I agree that the stock system sucked, Toyota would be money ahead if they put in better stock speakers. By improving the driving experience they would actually sell more vehicles.
SScott

 

[Sunnyside Scott]

So here is the breakdown of aprox what I have into this project.
Pioneer GM amp...............................$250
JL audio 8" sub with grill....................$110
Polk DB 6501...................................$115
Polk DB 651....................................$67
Dynamat door kit .............................$50
2 Hytrol high to low signal converts......$20
8 ga. amp install kit ..........................$50
1 sheet 3/4 MDF plywood...................$19
1 roll of Sub enclosure covering...........$25
1 can of 3M adhesive........................$12
100' 24ga speaker wire......................$6
100' 16ga speaker wire......................$20
Heat shrink tubing ...........................$4

I purchased some of the things off the internet and some local, and I am posting this for information only, I am not trying to start a debate on pricing.
I hope this helps someone that is interested in doing an upgrade on there stereo.
SScott

 

[likeitloud1129]

Yeah, I was grinding my teeth when I first bought the Tundra. The stock speakers are freaking horrible, I put a full CDT audio replacement in. Sounds so much better with a Alpine HU, Great install man big props.