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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2008 4.7 Tundra and I’ve noticed the A/C will kick off under 1500 RPM’s. The light will start flashing and I have to turn the A/C off manually from the dash and back on when I’m driving above 1500 RPM’s to get it to kick the compressor back on. Any idea what could be causing this issue. I’ve changed the A/C clutch relay and that worked for about 15 minutes then it started to do the same thing. I also work at a shop which has an A/C machine so I’ve vacuumed and charged the system to spec. Any advice would be appreciated thanks.
 

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2005 Toyota Tundra 4x4 limited double cab 4.7l
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time to change the actual magnetic clutch? it is an electro magnet that when charged closes the gap if the coils that do it fail the effect can get weaker also if the surface gets contaminated it could be slipping and it seems your truck is not getting acceptable readings without spinning that pully over 1500. I would change the clutch first and clean the grounds making sure they make good contact perhaps the voltage drop is getting too high.
 

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I have a 2008 4.7 Tundra and I’ve noticed the A/C will kick off under 1500 RPM’s. The light will start flashing and I have to turn the A/C off manually from the dash and back on when I’m driving above 1500 RPM’s to get it to kick the compressor back on. Any idea what could be causing this issue. I’ve changed the A/C clutch relay and that worked for about 15 minutes then it started to do the same thing. I also work at a shop which has an A/C machine so I’ve vacuumed and charged the system to spec. Any advice would be appreciated thanks.
Low on Refrigerant. If you loose too much refrigerant you will pull air (non condensibles and moisture) into the system and then you will have to pull a vacuum before charging it.Don;t try to run it until you get refrigerant in it.
 

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2005 Toyota Tundra 4x4 limited double cab 4.7l
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Low on Refrigerant. If you loose too much refrigerant you will pull air (non condensibles and moisture) into the system and then you will have to pull a vacuum before charging it.Don;t try to run it until you get refrigerant in it.
He said in his first post he pulled vacuum and filled per specifications. My vote is still on clutch it is a electronic part it can fail and partially fail plus it is not a super expensive hard to replace part. He can still check make sure a seal didn't blow but.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
He said in his first post he pulled vacuum and filled per specifications. My vote is still on clutch it is a electronic part it can fail and partially fail plus it is not a super expensive hard to replace part. He can still check make sure a seal didn't blow but.
Appreciate it. Yea I checked the grounds to the clutch ad found one where the crimp had pulled out of a ground wire on the compressor. Recrimped but still had the same issue. Just the past day or two though it started grinding in idle if the a/c kicked on so I’m going to order a new compressor with a drier and I believe that system has an expansion valve? I don’t think it would be an orifice tube being a newer model truck but I could be wrong.
 
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