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Discussion Starter #1
Feeling like I'd picked up enough info :tu: from other oil related threads here, I finally "got off the fence" and decided to do my own oil change when I found Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30 selling in 5 qt. jugs at Wal-Mart for under $20 apiece :). Picked up a Toyota Filter at discount from my dealership's Parts guy (might order online in the future for even better pricing, but wanted to see how the initial attempt went first). Dropped the skid plate OK, but would say there was a small learning curve :eek: discovering the length of the drain plug and amount of oil seepage :p to expect as both it and the filter were unscrewed.

I'll probably order one of those Fumoto drain valves :tu: before the next change is due. I'm thinkin' the F103N (with nipple) will still end well above the clearance height of the nearby cross member, and being able to slip some tubing over that nipple and down to the collection container will keep things a lot cleaner :).

Curiously, I found the Factory Original oil filter was different :eek: from the currently spec'd replacement (see pic). The original filter's P/N isn't listed whatsoever :eek: in Toyota's Engine Oil and Filter Application Chart. Perhaps I missed 'em, but I didn't see any older threads mentioning a special break-in filter, although I'm guessing :confused: that's the reason for the difference.

With only 5,000 miles on my Tundra DC, although glad I discovered it early, I was disappointed :( to discover what appears to be a leaking transmission seal at the drive shaft :td: (see other pic). Considering the level of work I suspect will be required to fix this, I'm inclined to take it to my previous area Toyota dealer, where I'm known by several service and sales people, and they've held Toyota's President's Award for Service :tu: for longer than I've owned Toyotas. My only "big stick" with the current dealer is being a distant relative of the new vehicle Sales Manager. That relationship got me a great price on the purchase, but I've gotten a lot of negative feedback :td: over the years from folks about their Service Department.
 

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The YZZ whatever number was always normal for me when I ordered them from my parts guy at the dealer too. Must be some different part number that they know whether you changed the filter or not since coming off the assembly line???

I'd go with a better filter and with synthetic you can get alot more miles out of each oil change. I go at least 10K with 5w-30 amsoil and their filter.
 

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<snip>
I'll probably order one of those Fumoto drain valves :tu: before the next change is due. I'm thinkin' the F103N (with nipple) will still end well above the clearance height of the nearby cross member, and being able to slip some tubing over that nipple and down to the collection container will keep things a lot cleaner :).

<snip>
Unless you're collecting samples for oil analysis, that Fumoto valve is a PITA because it takes forever to drain with the tiny hole in it. I had one on my T-100 & it went with the truck. Ditto for the old Avalon we sold.


I raise the front of the truck a tad to help the oil drain & I get very little slop. The skid plate mod also keeps the mess to a bare minimum. :tu:

FWIW, I use one of those giant cookie sheets under the drain pan to catch any errant drips the wind may cause.
 

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Checkers sells Mobil 1 M102 filter for 9.99+ Tax, probably best price i have found for this filter and i statred using the 5W30 Truck Formula Mobil 1, has added addatives for trucks! just did my 20K service and my 06 D/C is a piece of cake tu lube compared to my 93 Toy PU!! My 06 D/C takes exactly 7 Qts with filter!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Must be some different part number that they know whether you changed the filter or not since coming off the assembly line???
Not out of the question, but the presence of a -20004 would only reveal that it had never been changed. IMO that'd have increasingly limited value as time passes. Even if the -YZZD3 had some kind of mfg. lot or date code on it, you'd still be unable to determine (by this means alone) whether the filter had been changed more than once.

I'd go with a better filter and with synthetic you can get alot more miles out of each oil change. I go at least 10K with 5w-30 amsoil and their filter.
I figured on going 10K miles between changes, too. I wouldn't dispute the quality of Amsoil's products, but given my driving conditions, currently believe the genuine Toyota filter should be good enough. Out of curiosity, I might consider getting an oil analysis at the next change, then adjust maintenance practices if needed.

Unless you're collecting samples for oil analysis, that Fumoto valve is a PITA because it takes forever to drain with the tiny hole in it.
Already pulled the trigger on the order, but certainly something to consider. I think I can tolerate the extended drain period as long as I plan ahead timewise, but I'll keep the original drain plug just in case. Call it a tradeoff for keeping the job a little cleaner.

I raise the front of the truck a tad to help the oil drain & I get very little slop. The skid plate mod also keeps the mess to a bare minimum.

FWIW, I use one of those giant cookie sheets under the drain pan to catch any errant drips the wind may cause.
Maybe not that obvious in the pic, but also had the front wheels up on ramps and (thankfully) had enough foresight to use one of those drip pans, too. Still managed to get a small amount of oil where I didn't want it, but now that I know what to expect, shouldn't have that problem next time. As for the skid plate mod, I recall mentions of holes cut for funnels and hands (and plastic bags over the filter), but I haven't yet dug around much in the Knowledge Base to see whether there's an "official TS-recommended" mod.

BTW Hogwild, I'd been looking for awhile at the various Mobil 1 products, but the recommendations here (and elsewhere) for the Pennzoil swung my decision in that direction when WM started stocking it, especially at $1 - $2 less per quart than the other local automotive stores.
 

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I used to use Pennzoil and you allways hear from all the pennzoil haters that it will do this and it will do that but i never had a problem with it caused i changed it frequently and only reason i am using Mobil 1 is cause they have been manufacturing it almost as long as everyone else so you amsoil guys have no need in your .2 cents here OK!! hehe!! Just a quality product with quality engineering behind its products!!
 

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With only 5,000 miles on my Tundra DC, although glad I discovered it early, I was disappointed :( to discover what appears to be a leaking transmission seal at the drive shaft :td: (see other pic). Considering the level of work I suspect will be required to fix this, I'm inclined to take it to my previous area Toyota dealer, where I'm known by several service and sales people, and they've held Toyota's President's Award for Service :tu: for longer than I've owned Toyotas. My only "big stick" with the current dealer is being a distant relative of the new vehicle Sales Manager. That relationship got me a great price on the purchase, but I've gotten a lot of negative feedback :td: over the years from folks about their Service Department.
i noticed a leak were the transmission connects to the engine, how about you guys? and with only 8600 miles:mad: i took it in and they told me it was also leaking were you found your leak:mad: :mad: so they fixed the driveshaft leak but the other leak no because they said the gasket is on national backorder. i recomend everybody checks this out unless you want matching oil spots on your brand new house's driveway just lke mine:cry:
 

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What bothers me most about possible transmission leaks on the 05-06 Tundras is that you now don't have the option of adding oil in an emergency since they have removed the filler/dipstick on the 5 speed 05-06 models. They claim you don't need it because the oil does not have to be changed for a very long time so I guess also that the transmission is also guaranteed to not leak either.:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Agreed. Without a dipstick, no way to be certain how much fluid you've lost. Looks like I'll be paying extra attention to the tranny from now on.

Although lalojamesliz' and my Tundra's leaks hardly constitute a trend at this point, it'd be interesting to know more about things like:
1) where the transmissions are manufactured and the labor force skills involved
2) whether the seals get damaged on the vehicle assembly line or are already that way from the manufacturer
3) what Toyota's "acceptable defect rate" target is
4) whether we'll start seeing more reports of leaks at low mileages
5) most of all--whether the fix stays fixed!
 

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I tried the plastic bag trick over the oil filter on my last change because my plow mount makes removing the pan a PITA. Unfortunately, from above, it is very difficult to keep the bag in place and I still had some spillage onto the pan. Any suggestions?
 

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I tried the plastic bag trick over the oil filter on my last change because my plow mount makes removing the pan a PITA. Unfortunately, from above, it is very difficult to keep the bag in place and I still had some spillage onto the pan. Any suggestions?[/QUOT

The first time I tried the plastic bag on the filter trick I still ended up making a mess.:mad: The next time after I got the filter loose enough I used a bag just a little bigger than the filter and after placing the bag on the filter I rolled a rubber band over the filter all the way up past the filter until it contacted and sealed off around the housing that the filter threads onto. I still did drop a few drops of oil but it actually worked pretty good. I was a PITA though to get the rubber band rolled up perfectly to the end of the filter and bag. I have also heard of people using a shallow plastic tupperware type of container under the filter as well but havn't tried that yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Even though the drain pan had been long drained, considering the amount of oil that was pouring out until I got the filter completely unscrewed and turned open end up, I'm not yet inclined to go for the plastic bag method. My current game plan for next time is to use a funnel with an opening about twice the diameter of the filter, connected to tubing that runs to the used oil container. I'll back the filter off just enough to let most of the oil drain, but have to work out a stable method to position the funnel (or find a mod to try, instead).

My Fumoto valve arrived today, but it was marked "N Z 04", not "F-103 N", or even "NZ08" as described by the ebay seller. Took it by the dealership and the Parts guy verified the diameter was OK (presumably the threads, too), so that just leaves me wondering how these can all be the same valve?

As for transmission leaks, I stumbled across this August '06 TSB (TC007-06 TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAK THROUGH DRIVESHAFT SLIP YOKE) for 2004 2WD Sequoias and Tundras. I'll have to see if I can find anything similar for newer models. If there were enough problems to prompt the issuance of a TSB, I'm surprised there hasn't been more discussion about it. LaloJamesLiz doesn't have enough details viewable to verify, but unless someone indicates otherwise, I'm presuming this issue we're facing only affects 2WD transmissions.
 

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I did my first oil change today and just put a large open garbage bag below the filter and spread out on the skid plate. All the oil drained into the bag and the filter dropped into the bag as well not 1 drop spilled and no fuss no muss.
 

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As a follow up on that transmission leak on 05 and 06 Sequoia, Tacoma(V6), and Tundra's. I have had mine in 4 times and they still have not been able to fix it! On the last visit they even ordered a new housing and bolted that on. No luck, about a week later I spotted the transmission fluid again. Anyway I just made an appointment and told them that if they had to I wanted a new transmission. They said that may be an option and that they will check it out. I'll keep everyone informed. I will not accept this kind of quality from Toyota.
 

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Is yours a 2WD model? I haven't revisited mine lately, but a week or two after starting this thread, I got mine to the shop. Even though I had the photos to show them, you can guess how surprised I was when they said they couldn't find any transmission leak :eek: ?!?!?! They even took me out to the service bay, where the truck was still on the lift, and I could only confirm that the evidence was no longer there.

Guess its been long enough now that I'd better go check again . . .
 

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Yes the TSB only covered 2WD. If it's leaking you will see it. On mine it was just a wet spot with a little dust on it, not really a drip on the driveway. If I wanted leaks I'd buy a Harley!
 

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Yes the TSB only covered 2WD. If it's leaking you will see it. On mine it was just a wet spot with a little dust on it, not really a drip on the driveway. If I wanted leaks I'd buy a Harley!
Better yet, get an old Jeep...I gave up on keeping leaks at bay.
 
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