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Discussion Starter #1
So I searched the forum and found the EXACT same issue on the EXACT same truck — posted 10yrs ago (where does the time go?)


When I start the truck the ABS light flashes rapidly.

Once underway, the light goes off—until I come to a COMPLETE stop and it starts flashing again. Above 10mph the light goes off again.

Brake fluid is fine, sensor wires look fine, pads changed about 18mos ago.

Possibly the brake light switch (on the pedal)?
 

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I know one place you could look to rule out and won't take that long to do. Grab your 10mm socket and remove the abs sensor. I found if you take a screwdriver and pry up carefully where the bolt goes through the whole it makes a little easier removing. You won't damage the o-ring either in this spot. Anyhow, inspect the bottom of the sensor for any oil residue. Also inspect the abs ring, it should be dry. Reason I suggest looking here is to rule out any axle seal issues. That was one of the things I noticed when my seal went out. Apparently, axle oil was getting on the sensor causing intermittent flashing. I also read online where someone had an issue with the fuse box itself so that might be a place to inspect. Hope that helps some.
Conk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Conk. I'll be wrenching on my truck later this week (knock sensors) and I will add ABS sensors and fuses to my to-do list.
 

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I have the flashing ABS issue on my 02. Except it goes off at 30 mph, then usually stays off, but not always. My case appears electrical, as it first started with a battery change 9 years ago. It went away after reworking connections. It just returned a few months ago with another battery replacement. Get this. If I make sure electrical load is nil - radio off, fan off, door closed, seatbelt latched - before I crank the engine, then just turn key to accessory and watch. Usually, after a few seconds the Abs light goes out and stays out. But if it starts flashing before I crank the engine, then I'll have to roll up to 30 to shush it. That's someclues why I think mine at least is electrical. I need to crawl under and rework connections from the alternator next probably. HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And as "luck" would have it the light has been off ever since I posted.

That won't stop me from pulling the wheels and checking sensors tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The good news is that the issue is resolved; however, I doubt my solution is going to be helpful--but it does make for a good story.

The past year has brought my truck myriad issues. I changed the timing belt and water pump back in April '19; in November I noticed a coolant leak that I I was not able to locate for the life of me. I tried stop leak, kept the radiator topped off, but on one particularly cold morning the temp gauge went into the red, check engine light came on, and the truck shut off--like a fail-safe mode.

What does this have to do with ABS light? Read on.

I plugged in my OBDII reader to clear the ECU fault (Coolant Circuit, of course) and I left it plugged in because my phone app has a real-time monitoring feature, including coolant temp. About a week later I got a fault code for a misfire in #5 (bad coil) and then a week later a fault code for a knock sensor in bank 2. Decided to take a day off work, pull the intake manifold, replace both knock sensors and look for the coolant leak.

Before I had a chance to do that, my daughter told me HER light was on in her Mercury Mariner; I checked it for her (lean fuel--changed the fuel filter, looked like it was filled with coffee). Three days later I realized that my ABS light was no longer flashing. It was no longer on at all. I had taken the OBDII reader out of my truck and hadn't bothered to reconnect it after fixing my kid's car.

I plugged the reader back into the Tundra, drove up the street, and the ABS light started flashing again.

I know, OBDII is for engine diagnostics, but for some reason electrons are running amok under the truck and causing the idiot light to flash.

As for the coolant leak? I replaced a nasty-looking o-ring that was on the bypass pipe from the water pump to the heater core. I thought I had changed that when I installed the new water pump. Maybe not. Replaced the knock sensors and all of the injector seals as well.

Good for another 100k. Or at least for another week!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The good news is that the issue is resolved; however, I doubt my solution is going to be helpful--but it does make for a good story.

The past year has brought my truck myriad issues. I changed the timing belt and water pump back in April '19; in November I noticed a coolant leak that I I was not able to locate for the life of me. I tried stop leak, kept the radiator topped off, but on one particularly cold morning the temp gauge went into the red, check engine light came on, and the truck shut off--like a fail-safe mode.

What does this have to do with ABS light? Read on.

I plugged in my OBDII reader to clear the ECU fault (Coolant Circuit, of course) and I left it plugged in because my phone app has a real-time monitoring feature, including coolant temp. About a week later I got a fault code for a misfire in #5 (bad coil) and then a week later a fault code for a knock sensor in bank 2. Decided to take a day off work, pull the intake manifold, replace both knock sensors and look for the coolant leak.

Before I had a chance to do that, my daughter told me HER light was on in her Mercury Mariner; I checked it for her (lean fuel--changed the fuel filter, looked like it was filled with coffee). Three days later I realized that my ABS light was no longer flashing. It was no longer on at all. I had taken the OBDII reader out of my truck and hadn't bothered to reconnect it after fixing my kid's car.

I plugged the reader back into the Tundra, drove up the street, and the ABS light started flashing again.

I know, OBDII is for engine diagnostics, but for some reason electrons are running amok under the truck and causing the idiot light to flash.

As for the coolant leak? I replaced a nasty-looking o-ring that was on the bypass pipe from the water pump to the heater core. I thought I had changed that when I installed the new water pump. Maybe not. Replaced the knock sensors and all of the injector seals as well.

Good for another 100k. Or at least for another week!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The good news is that the issue is resolved; however, I doubt my solution is going to be helpful--but it does make for a good story.

The past year has brought my truck myriad issues. I changed the timing belt and water pump back in April '19; in November I noticed a coolant leak that I I was not able to locate for the life of me. I tried stop leak, kept the radiator topped off, but on one particularly cold morning the temp gauge went into the red, check engine light came on, and the truck shut off--like a fail-safe mode.

What does this have to do with ABS light? Read on.

I plugged in my OBDII reader to clear the ECU fault (Coolant Circuit, of course) and I left it plugged in because my phone app has a real-time monitoring feature, including coolant temp. About a week later I got a fault code for a misfire in #5 (bad coil) and then a week later a fault code for a knock sensor in bank 2. Decided to take a day off work, pull the intake manifold, replace both knock sensors and look for the coolant leak.

Before I had a chance to do that, my daughter told me HER light was on in her Mercury Mariner; I checked it for her (lean fuel--changed the fuel filter, looked like it was filled with coffee). Three days later I realized that my ABS light was no longer flashing. It was no longer on at all. I had taken the OBDII reader out of my truck and hadn't bothered to reconnect it after fixing my kid's car.

I plugged the reader back into the Tundra, drove up the street, and the ABS light started flashing again.

I know, OBDII is for engine diagnostics, but for some reason electrons are running amok under the truck and causing the idiot light to flash.

As for the coolant leak? I replaced a nasty-looking o-ring that was on the bypass pipe from the water pump to the heater core. I thought I had changed that when I installed the new water pump. Maybe not. Replaced the knock sensors and all of the injector seals as well.

Good for another 100k. Or at least for another week!
 
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