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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I have a 2003 Sequoia that recently underwent a front suspension rejuvenation. Since then my traction control has been going off to the point I cant pull out of the driveway.

It started after new UCA, CV's, Steering Rack Bushings and an alignment. The VSC would turn on going on/off hwy ramps.

I replaced both front wheel speed sensors and am still having a ton of problems.

I have read everything there is on the issue and have tried the code reset/zero point calibration without success. I am still reading a 31/32 code for Front Right and Front Left wheel speed sensor Malfunction. I am able to clear the codes and clear the ABS light as well. (ABS, VSC Trac, VSC Off and Brake Lights all illuminate after driving short distance)

I went over several threads about zero point calibration and can not seem to get the VSC light to illuminate to reset the VSC but I am able to get both ABS and VSC lights flashing simultaneously.

My questions are...

1) How should I reset for the new wheel speed sensors. There is no way they are bad (This is the second set after re installing my OEM ones after a good clean and still not removing the ABS light)

2) Is there a chance the YAW sensor is related

3) Has anyone else experienced the ABS kicking in at speeds under 5mph and the breaking noise going on until all 4 lights illuminate causing the system failure? I

I would like to have the ABS/Trac system functioning properly and im about ready to take it in for a zero point calibration with a toyota tech scanner.

Thanks!

(OME 2" lift, SPC UCA, 1.25" wheel spacers, 285/70/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W's)
 

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These gen1 Sequoia/Tundras are so finicky. Before any work is done to the steering components, a bungie cord or some old time contraption needs to used to keep the steering wheel straight as the steering angle sensor moves around when you are installing a new rack or doing tierod ends, etc.

I dont have the guide for 2003, but your best bet is to do the precheck or diagnostic tests for all vsc related components. Its a series of seven tests you can do in an empty parking lot, as you will need to drive in a circle and accelerate and stop so the sensors can detect these motions.

The steering angle test usually comes after the brake pressure test and then once you get a good beep for all, meaning the senors work, you can perform a zero point calibration and then the lights will go off and your car will drive normal.

I had my rack and pinion replaced by a shop and i told the guy to keep the steering wheel still, but the cowboy mechanic knew better and lo and behold my codes came on. When i check, my steering angle is so off, and my car drives straight with the steering wheel off by more than five degrees. This is what throws the c1231 code (or 31). I will fix this myself later this week after i change the intermediate shaft #2 and change the rubber dust/water boot that they destroyed apparantly from moving the steering shaft around (i wont blame them for that, the truck is 18 years old and rusty-ish). I will also change the bushings in the rack as the steering rack was moving around alot when turning, as if the bushings are made from gummy bears instead of rubber. And i may as well do my sway bar bushings too.

But to reiterate, the steering wheel needs to be pretty straight when you are driving down the road, if its off by more than five degrees yours vsc and trac light will stay on (31).

Wheel speed sensor codes are usually a product of brakes grabbing prematurely. One side grabbing first and making one wheel almost skid when stopping on dusty or wet roads. Make sure the brakes are bled properly and the calipers release when you let go of the brake pedal. Also make sure the rear wheels arent grabbing due to the parking brake drum. They should only engage when the brake is down. If you spin the wheels and hear a grabbing, your rotors are warped and that can cause it too (from my experience).

I dont know the precheck procedure for an 03, but the doc attached is for my 02... View attachment preche.pdf
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20200618_160322.jpg
20200618_151617.jpg


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Discussion Starter #3
I appreciate the response. More than likely it is the steering angle. On the sheet from the alignment shop it says they corrected my steering angle which I believe is throwing the codes. It hadn’t been touched in a long time and I think he thought he was helping me out. The truck drives completely straight with the wheel straight now (it didn’t do this before when it was off 5+ degrees).

I’m going to take it to a parking lot as mentioned and try to run through all the tests. I’ll get to this sometime next week and post a reply On what I find out.

Thanks again for the advice/suggestions @Tekem
 

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To follow up, I got this resolved. After trying to do a zero point calibration by using paper clips in the OBDII and being unsuccessful I figured I would take it to a local shop to do the calibration. I was able to jump the ports and clear all my codes to start the calibration but wasn’t able to get the VSC light to illuminate for the computer to indicate the system is clear and ready for calibration. Anyway, it turns out the front ABS wires I had replaced weren’t reading on the scanner at all due to oversized o rings not allowing them to seat correctly and my oversight. The kid at the shop was nice and changed the o rings out for me, seated the abs sensors correctly and did the calibration. It ended up only being $62.50. Hope this helps someone down the road.
 

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To follow up, I got this resolved. After trying to do a zero point calibration by using paper clips in the OBDII and being unsuccessful I figured I would take it to a local shop to do the calibration. I was able to jump the ports and clear all my codes to start the calibration but wasn’t able to get the VSC light to illuminate for the computer to indicate the system is clear and ready for calibration. Anyway, it turns out the front ABS wires I had replaced weren’t reading on the scanner at all due to oversized o rings not allowing them to seat correctly and my oversight. The kid at the shop was nice and changed the o rings out for me, seated the abs sensors correctly and did the calibration. It ended up only being $62.50. Hope this helps someone down the road.
Did they do the calibration with a scan tool? Or with the manual method?

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