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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
5/15/21
AC Air Conditioning Integration Circuit AC Switch Replacement Integration Printed Circuit Board PSB etc Generation Gen 1 Toyota Tundra Limited

Had the common Toyota problem where the AC works intermittently.
Usually stopped working when the temp outside was 108ºf. plus.
The AC light on the button would also blink.
Wiggling the button would sometimes make the AC work.

When you push the AC button, this button pushes/activates a small Switch/Button on a printed circuit board (PCB) located behind.

Found a lot of posts where folks were looking for info on this problem.

The biggest problem is terminology and trying to find info about parts and their numbers, when you don't know what the thing looks like or what it is called.
154874
154875

First I have to give credit to Metty IH8Mud.com, who's post got me pointed the right direction, and has solid info on this type of repair, de-soldering, solder wick, soldering circuit boards, etc.
The post refers to a cruiser, the switches are NOT the same.

Second
I have a cousin who is actively familiar with working on and replacing components on circuit boards. There's alot of terminology the average wrench would not be familiar with.

Third
I also am, very often, the recipient of useful info found on this and other sites.

Here Goes... Confirm all info for yourself. Find anything inaccurate speak up.
This is a 2002 Gen 1 Tundra 4.7 Limited.
Will likely be the same for Sequoia and possibly many others.

Toyota Part Numbers found

84010-0C021 CONTROL & PANEL ASSY, INTEGRATION (Walnut Limited) 84010-0C020 CONTROL & PANEL ASSY, INTEGRATION (Black) $1000+
This is the whole works in Walnut for a Limited. Black SR5 etc
Has the Panel Vents Buttons and circuit board (if not mistaken) etc.
154866

154867


84014-0C020 BOARD SUB-ASSY, PRINTED WIRE INTEGRATION $650 plus
Part Description Board Sub-Assy, Printed Wire Integration
Saw the same part number described as HVAC Temperature Control Panel
This is the printed circuit board and the rear facing housing (which does not come off). Includes led clock face PCB buttons etc.
The housing is attached cannot be removed without de-soldering the aprox 28 through board pins, from the clock. Smallest unit to buy for direct part replacement.
154868

55912-0C010 Housing, Heater Control $87 plus
Saw the same part number described as HVAC Temperature Control Panel Bracket
This piece is held to the front facing side of the Circuit board by 5 screws. The front side of this piece snaps into the dash and is sandwiched between the Dash and AC Panel. Pulls strait out. Some or all the tabs will break upon removal. Even though mine was damaged (3 tabs broke) removing it, it buttoned down tight after the 5 screws were tightened.
154869

R&R and Repair (very easy)
Pull the 3 AC knobs off (Fan, Temp, Vent Select) remove the 3 screws behind.
Push the top of the 2 vents on either side of the stereo, to expose and remove the 2 screws now visible.
Pull the panel straight out. Push the bottom of the 2 vents on either side of stereo and grip here. Some or all of the tabs will likely break.
Wiggle, pull gently and it should come strait out.

Press release tabs to remove the connectors.
The yellow connector has a slide release.
Remove the housing on the front facing side of the board by removing 5 Screws.
May need to remove 5 bulbs first.
Suppose to be able to disconnect the 2 connectors. I could only get one side off.
The housing on the rear facing side of the board does not come off in any practical way.
When you see a Toyota drawing of the Circuit Integration the picture shows this irregular shaped rear facing housing.
My goal was see if I could get to the switch/button recon the replacement process and take accurate measurements of the switch/button to find a replacement.
The switch/button is partially visible through the housing, when looking at the edge of the board.
Since I could not remove this housing from the board, I opened this area to get a more accurate measurement of the switch. Caution, this part of the housing guides the external button you push for AC.

Problem/s, Fixes Info etc...
The Switch/Button on the board is a $1.67 (retail) part.
To replace the Circuit Integration is & 650-$1000 for the part.
The switch/button is either Off/Out or Locked In/On (continuity)
With some help I found the Exact Switch or a Suitable Replacement on Mouser
Panasonic ESB30-30B103 PP/Locking Strait Terminal.
While you cannot get directly to the switch is appears there would be not problem removing and reinserting through the external button channel, after de-soldering/re-soldering.

specs
The switch/button has 6 pins (2 rows of 3) that are hard soldered in to the board.
3 in a row are aprox 5mm (.197) from pins 1-3 and 4-6.
Distance between the 2 rows of the is 7mm (.276)
Switch is DPDT. Look at the board pins 1and 4 are connected as well as pins 3 and 5. Pins 3 and 6 are not connected and do nothing. With the AC Button locked Down/On pins1and 4 will have continuity with pins 3 and 5. Redundant double contacts.
154873

154872

Specs for this switch Length:10 mm Width:8.9 mm Height: 20.5 mm (Out/Off).
my initial measurements
154871

If you are doing this Switch/Button you should do the switch button that chooses between fresh air and recirculate as well.
154876

There are also buttons that control the 4WD and Low4 if equipped on this same circuit board, though the switch/button is different.

I was getting pretty cocky about doing this myself till I saw how small the pins and solder puddles are (eyes ain't what they used to be). I'll leave to the guys that have already had practice doing this.
The old solder need to be sucked out or wicked when the solder is hot to remove all old solder and remove switch/button.

What I Did DO was Hose out the Switch/Button with Contact Cleaner.
There was a lot of dust behind the dash as well as on the board.
This seems to have at least temporarily solved the problem.
With switches in hand, replacement is also an option.

AC will probably quit working when the temp hits 108ºf.
I did replace the AC Pressure Switch first which requires evac and recharge of the refrigerant.
It did blow cold when working, so I never suspected refrigerant level or issues with the Compressor.
I will post as many pictures as possible.
glatroni
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
5/15/21
AC Air Conditioning Integration Circuit AC Switch Replacement Integration Printed Circuit Board PSB etc Generation Gen 1 Toyota Tundra Limited

Had the common Toyota problem where the AC works intermittently.
Usually stopped working when the temp outside was 108ºf. plus.
The AC light on the button would also blink.
Wiggling the button would sometimes make the AC work.

When you push the AC button, this button pushes/activates a small Switch/Button on a printed circuit board (PCB) located behind.

Found a lot of posts where folks were looking for info on this problem.

The biggest problem is terminology and trying to find info about parts and their numbers, when you don't know what the thing looks like or what it is called.
View attachment 154874 View attachment 154875
First I have to give credit to Metty IH8Mud.com, who's post got me pointed the right direction, and has solid info on this type of repair, de-soldering, solder wick, soldering circuit boards, etc.
The post refers to a cruiser, the switches are NOT the same.

Second
I have a cousin who is actively familiar with working on and replacing components on circuit boards. There's alot of terminology the average wrench would not be familiar with.

Third
I also am, very often, the recipient of useful info found on this and other sites.

Here Goes... Confirm all info for yourself. Find anything inaccurate speak up.
This is a 2002 Gen 1 Tundra 4.7 Limited.
Will likely be the same for Sequoia and possibly many others.

Toyota Part Numbers found

84010-0C021 CONTROL & PANEL ASSY, INTEGRATION (Walnut Limited) 84010-0C020 CONTROL & PANEL ASSY, INTEGRATION (Black) $1000+
This is the whole works in Walnut for a Limited. Black SR5 etc
Has the Panel Vents Buttons and circuit board (if not mistaken) etc.
View attachment 154866
View attachment 154867

84014-0C020 BOARD SUB-ASSY, PRINTED WIRE INTEGRATION $650 plus
Part Description Board Sub-Assy, Printed Wire Integration
Saw the same part number described as HVAC Temperature Control Panel
This is the printed circuit board and the rear facing housing (which does not come off). Includes led clock face PCB buttons etc.
The housing is attached cannot be removed without de-soldering the aprox 28 through board pins, from the clock. Smallest unit to buy for direct part replacement.
View attachment 154868
55912-0C010 Housing, Heater Control $87 plus
Saw the same part number described as HVAC Temperature Control Panel Bracket
This piece is held to the front facing side of the Circuit board by 5 screws. The front side of this piece snaps into the dash and is sandwiched between the Dash and AC Panel. Pulls strait out. Some or all the tabs will break upon removal. Even though mine was damaged (3 tabs broke) removing it, it buttoned down tight after the 5 screws were tightened.
View attachment 154869
R&R and Repair (very easy)
Pull the 3 AC knobs off (Fan, Temp, Vent Select) remove the 3 screws behind.
Push the top of the 2 vents on either side of the stereo, to expose and remove the 2 screws now visible.
Pull the panel straight out. Push the bottom of the 2 vents on either side of stereo and grip here. Some or all of the tabs will likely break.
Wiggle, pull gently and it should come strait out.

Press release tabs to remove the connectors.
The yellow connector has a slide release.
Remove the housing on the front facing side of the board by removing 5 Screws.
May need to remove 5 bulbs first.
Suppose to be able to disconnect the 2 connectors. I could only get one side off.
The housing on the rear facing side of the board does not come off in any practical way.
When you see a Toyota drawing of the Circuit Integration the picture shows this irregular shaped rear facing housing.
My goal was see if I could get to the switch/button recon the replacement process and take accurate measurements of the switch/button to find a replacement.
The switch/button is partially visible through the housing, when looking at the edge of the board.
Since I could not remove this housing from the board, I opened this area to get a more accurate measurement of the switch. Caution, this part of the housing guides the external button you push for AC.

Problem/s, Fixes Info etc...
The Switch/Button on the board is a $1.67 (retail) part.
To replace the Circuit Integration is & 650-$1000 for the part.
The switch/button is either Off/Out or Locked In/On (continuity)
With some help I found the Exact Switch or a Suitable Replacement on Mouser
Panasonic ESB30-30B103 PP/Locking Strait Terminal.
While you cannot get directly to the switch is appears there would be not problem removing and reinserting through the external button channel, after de-soldering/re-soldering.

specs
The switch/button has 6 pins (2 rows of 3) that are hard soldered in to the board.
3 in a row are aprox 5mm (.197) from pins 1-3 and 4-6.
Distance between the 2 rows of the is 7mm (.276)
Switch is DPDT. Look at the board pins 1and 4 are connected as well as pins 3 and 5. Pins 3 and 6 are not connected and do nothing. With the AC Button locked Down/On pins1and 4 will have continuity with pins 3 and 5. Redundant double contacts.
View attachment 154873
View attachment 154872
Specs for this switch Length:10 mm Width:8.9 mm Height: 20.5 mm (Out/Off).
my initial measurements
View attachment 154871
If you are doing this Switch/Button you should do the switch button that chooses between fresh air and recirculate as well.
View attachment 154876
There are also buttons that control the 4WD and Low4 if equipped on this same circuit board, though the switch/button is different.

I was getting pretty cocky about doing this myself till I saw how small the pins and solder puddles are (eyes ain't what they used to be). I'll leave to the guys that have already had practice doing this.
The old solder need to be sucked out or wicked when the solder is hot to remove all old solder and remove switch/button.

What I Did DO was Hose out the Switch/Button with Contact Cleaner.
There was a lot of dust behind the dash as well as on the board.
This seems to have at least temporarily solved the problem.
With switches in hand, replacement is also an option.

AC will probably quit working when the temp hits 108ºf.
I did replace the AC Pressure Switch first which requires evac and recharge of the refrigerant.
It did blow cold when working, so I never suspected refrigerant level or issues with the Compressor.
I will post as many pictures as possible.
glatroni
154877

154878

154879

154880

154881

154882

154883

154885
154886
154884
 

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I had a similar issue with my Toyota. I tried fixing it myself, but I wasn’t able to succeed. Eventually, I went to the local service and got my air conditioner fixed there. I also had an issue with my home air conditioner a couple of weeks ago. It wasn’t blowing any cold air, so I decided to fix it myself this time. I watched some YouTube videos, and still, it didn’t help me. I cleaned it twice, and I even switched the vents but still nothing. That’s why I decided that I need to find a solution ASAP. I went on the internet and started to search for a solution. After hours of searching, I ran into marvellous.sg and I was surprised. They had all the information needed about air conditioners and how to fix them. After reading, I was able to figure out what is the issue and after all, I managed to fix my air conditioner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Been Almost a Year.
AC is Still Working from Simply Spraying Contact Cleaner on Switch.
As of yet... I have not replaced the Switch.
 
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