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Discussion Starter #1
First I should ask just how cold should the AC in a 2006 SR5 2WD Access cab be. It does not seem real cold to me. I would expect that at full bore and on recycle it should be able to freeze you out of the cab, but this new tundra does not.It can not even keep the cab cool when the outside air in 70 F, so what's up withthis. The vehicle only has 800+ miles on it. Has any had a problem with these AC's. Is it a factoy recall and I have to point it out to them? Please advise ASAP. I have an appointment at the dealership on Saturday and I want to go armed with good information. Thanks
 

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Make sure the oval shaped switch on the dash that has AC on it is lit. I've had mine turned off and thought the AC wasn't working. The button is below the AC panel.
 

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I'd check the cable..

My new truck with 400km on it had the cable come loose on me , no heat for my instance though. I think it might have been kicked or something , when you see it you'll know what i mean.

There is a clip that retains the cable outer coating to the heater box (passenger side , on drivers side of box , on lower side of box).

My thought is the cable has poped out and is mixing in some heat (due to the heater setting being not no cold) causing the a/c nt to be cold.

Just a thought...

Martin :)
 

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Make sure your evaporator isn't clogged like mine was. I noticed some water coming back into the truck during the summer, so then stuck a wire tie into the end of the evap hose to find it was clogged. I think about a gallon of water poured out onto my driveway. This was affecting my a/c and its ability to get cold.
 

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First I should ask just how cold should the AC in a 2006 SR5 2WD Access cab be. It does not seem real cold to me. I would expect that at full bore and on recycle it should be able to freeze you out of the cab, but this new tundra does not.It can not even keep the cab cool when the outside air in 70 F, so what's up withthis. The vehicle only has 800+ miles on it. Has any had a problem with these AC's. Is it a factoy recall and I have to point it out to them? Please advise ASAP. I have an appointment at the dealership on Saturday and I want to go armed with good information. Thanks
Same thing happened to me but i was in route from NM to AR Aug, just went across Texas Border at Texico NM and AC on my 06 DC said I QUIT!! and it did, went down and hit I-20 and when i went thru Big D it was 115 Deg and i was VERY hot and MAD!! Went to dealearship and they replaced a 25 cent expansion valve seal under hood next to tranny cooler and reserviced and was GG but NOT HAPPY!! this same thing happened to my 93 Camry when it was like 3 moths old also? just take to dealer for warranty work and then you will be able to cool off!! it would only blow like 68 deg, when after it got fixed it blew like 36 deg BIG diff when its 115 deg out!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Same thing happened to me but i was in route from NM to AR Aug, just went across Texas Border at Texico NM and AC on my 06 DC said I QUIT!! and it did, went down and hit I-20 and when i went thru Big D it was 115 Deg and i was VERY hot and MAD!! Went to dealearship and they replaced a 25 cent expansion valve seal under hood next to tranny cooler and reserviced and was GG but NOT HAPPY!! this same thing happened to my 93 Camry when it was like 3 moths old also? just take to dealer for warranty work and then you will be able to cool off!! it would only blow like 68 deg, when after it got fixed it blew like 36 deg BIG diff when its 115 deg out!!
I took the NEW 2006 Tundra to the Toyota Deakership here in Mosesto Ca where they kept my vehicle for 7.5 hours looking for traces of a leak anywhere after putting die into the system from a two week prior visit. The results were, there were no leaks, the high and low pressure sides are with their limits, and the low pressure swith and high pressure switchs are good and functioning. The vehicle still does not get very cold at all. They measured the air temp coming out the vents with a IR thermometer and said it's 45 degrees. I am going to meansure that myself right now. As far as I am concerned the AC system in the Tundra sucks if thats the best it can do and way undersize for the vehicle. They basically said, "it is what it is so be happy". Wish I would have known this before I bouth it.
 

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my Tundra was blowing a little cooler than that after repair i think it was in the mid to high 30's i will put steak probe in there tomorow and see what i have now!!
 

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You might sure make your "water valve" on the firewall is completely closed.
Water Valve.jpg
 

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What water valve? How do you know when it is closed all the way? I am assuming that this must be some valve that stop hot water from getting to the heater core. It is cable driven? Please supply more information and a fix if it is not closed all the way. Thanks
 

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What water valve? How do you know when it is closed all the way? I am assuming that this must be some valve that stop hot water from getting to the heater core. It is cable driven? Please supply more information and a fix if it is not closed all the way. Thanks
That thing should freeze you out with an ambient of 70 degrees, and why did they add dye into the system if it wasn't low? on gas, they shouldn't be using infra red thermometers they do not give a true accurate reading just a surface temp average not air temperature I prefer a digital air probe unless I'm lazy and out comes the infra red.

If the things got air in the system because they dint vacuum it out prior to charging then it wont cool right and it will appear to be fully charged, Ive heard that dcabs dint cool as well as the access cabs, Go to another dealer.
 

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Don't even tell me there's an A/C problem with the DC's. My truck is my office, and in the summer, it's hotter than he!! in a truck without A/C.

Our Honda Pilot's A/C went out at 47,000 miles (right after the warranty ran out). I've never been impressed with Jap A/C's compared to domestic A/C's. We've had 5 Honda's and a Toyota, and none of them could freeze you out like any of the domestic A/C's.

I think half the problem is the new coolant used. Freon ruled.
 

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Don't even tell me there's an A/C problem with the DC's. My truck is my office, and in the summer, it's hotter than he!! in a truck without A/C.

Our Honda Pilot's A/C went out at 47,000 miles (right after the warranty ran out). I've never been impressed with Jap A/C's compared to domestic A/C's. We've had 5 Honda's and a Toyota, and none of them could freeze you out like any of the domestic A/C's.

I think half the problem is the new coolant used. Freon ruled.
I have two Japanese vehicles and two domestic and the Japanese Ac's are just as cold in The Florida heat, Tundra ac:tu: Civic ac :tu: Chevy van ac :tu: Jeeps ac :td: .
the 134a gets just as cold as R12 refrigerant, the early 134a models did not provide sufficient air flow to the condensers too small a condensor so they got a bad rap just poorly desigend they would stop cooling at stop lights.
BTW the term is refrigerant, the term Freon was coined by DuPont for all their refrigerants kinda like aspartame is Nutrasweet, refrigerat 12 is the same as DuPont freon 12.
 

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I lived in Texas for 20 years and my 97 Dodge had colder A/C than my Tundra. Let me take that back. They're the same temperature, but the blower motor isn't as strong in the Tundra. So when it travels through the cab it doesn't have the volume my Dodge did. I will say however on the 115 degree days I was in Texas this past summer I definitely felt cool, it just took longer for the cab to cool down. At this point in the season you should feel pretty damn cold when your turning your ac on. Have you measured the temp at chest level? If it's reading high there it's the blower. Measuring the in duct temperature is fine, but your not going to stick your head by the vent while you drive.:eek:
 

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i checked mine a couple hours ago and it was blowing 38 to 42 deg and that was in duct temp at dash, was kinda cool and rainy here when i checked it but that was at 2K rpm, went to 42 at idle but i feel at 60 to 65 it will go as low as 36 max!!
 

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I always have a thermometer in my vents. My a/c blows a steady 40 degrees. My wifes civic gets as low as 37.
 

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What water valve? How do you know when it is closed all the way? I am assuming that this must be some valve that stop hot water from getting to the heater core. It is cable driven? Please supply more information and a fix if it is not closed all the way. Thanks
What Toyota calls the "water valve", I always called the the heater valve or heater control valve.
It must have to do with the translation.
Anyways, Its on the firewall. & yes, it controls the water flow to the heater core.
Click on the attached thumbnails and follow the directions.
Hope this helps

FWIW, My AC gets down to 42 degrees.
 

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Make sure your evaporator isn't clogged like mine was. I noticed some water coming back into the truck during the summer, so then stuck a wire tie into the end of the evap hose to find it was clogged. I think about a gallon of water poured out onto my driveway. This was affecting my a/c and its ability to get cold.

I'm not sure if this is related or not, but when it rains I have water in the passenger floorboard behind the blower motor. The AC is not on and the truck is parked. Can you help me with this problem and where is the evaporator hose located? Thanks
 

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I'm not sure if this is related or not, but when it rains I have water in the passenger floorboard behind the blower motor. The AC is not on and the truck is parked. Can you help me with this problem and where is the evaporator hose located? Thanks
Your leak is most likely from one of the screws on the cowling in front of the base of the front windshield on the passenger side of the truck. There is a thread around here somewhere about it. Maybe some other members remember the title of this thread?
 

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My DC blows ice cold even in the hot/humid Houston summer.
 
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