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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally building my 03 Tundra!! Help and Suggestions Appreciated

Hello everyone!!!

Been crawling around here for 4 years now and finally posting and getting some upgrades done to the Tundra. Inherited this one from my dad who passed away 10 years ago so it is much loved by the wife, the 3 small dogs, and me!!! Currently restoring the Leer shell. Took off the shell 5 years ago when the glass door shattered and let it sit this whole time. Replaced the glass last week and the suns out so time to get to work. Currently have all the carpet out and scrubbed off and sanded the best I can. Going to use marine grade carpet from Cabelas and 3M Super77 spray adhesive to reline.

Since I've been creeping and crawling around reading and just fantasizing for years what I would do to my truck, I've decided (based on extensive, scientifically proven, research throughout the forums :wink2:) to do the Bilsteins, UCA, rear block route for a 2.5 inch lift on this 2WD. Wire in a secondary battery with isolator and solenoid, install some lights inside the shell, small front and rear LED lightbars, and other small things to turn this into a comfortable and 2WD capable weekend camping rig. Would love but don't need anything over the top especially since it isn't even 4WD.

But first things first!!! Here's a couple photos of my starting point. Any and all suggestions are welcome and VERY appreciated. By the way, I have no ideal what I'm doing and everything I do will be a first!!!!! I owned a 7-11 for ten years and just recently sold it, so I'm taking the opportunity of my sudden abundance of free time to learn a few things.

So far on the truck......

JBA ceramic coated headers (installed at a shop) 4 years ago
AFE cold air intake (myself) 4 years ago
upgraded head unit, amp, and speakers (myself) 8 years ago

other things I've done on my other cars
1972 Fiat 124 Spider, I upgraded an alternator, which required jumping wires, bypassing and removing relays. At first I was totally lost. But once I finished, I couldn't believe it took me so long to figure it out. I had a bit of trouble with all the terminology. Also rebuilt the carburetor
1971 Datsun 510 - replaced clutch master cylinder - replaced fuel pressure regulator

That, my friends, is all the experience I have. Well, except for the untested theoretical knowledge from reading so much on this site.:nerd2::grin2:

I will update post as I figure out what I'm doing with the truck and do it!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
What Pioneer is that?
It's a Pioneer AVH P4000DVD which I bought new and installed several years ago.

Why wouldn't the 'Quick Reply' button work? I assume you just click and start typing away. Did I do it wrong?

********NVM!!!! saw the box below :brainfart:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I got both side windows out and hosed off thoroughly. BLEH lots of crap in the all the cracks and crevices. Didn't find a way to pull the front glass off but was able to pull the old carpet out from under the windows gasket. I'll will just glue up against the gasket.

QUESTION: Do I need to completely remove all traces of old lining to get the marine carpet to adhere properly on the fiberglass? Or will this be good enough? Any recommendations on a better adhesive, or glue, or contact cement?

Probably should have ordered the carpet but it's raining the next few days so won't be out getting much done anyways. Now we wait......
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
So I searched and searched online and the 2 best prices I could find for marine carpet shipped was just over $100. Decided to check out Home Depot and VOILA! 40 cents a square foot. Elevations Sky Grey Carpet is on their carpet roll machine thing which comes in 12 foot width. I asked for 10x12 which would leave me plenty of room for mistakes and also enough material to do it all in one sheet. They cut 13.3 square yards (guess their machine isn't very exact with measurements) which came out to $48.15. Add on a utility knife and 3 cans of 3M 90 Contact Adhesive and we have a grand total of $100!!!!!!

A couple mistakes I made..........
1: Forgot to unplug the dome light inside the shell so the wires ripped right out of the harness.
2: Made a few terrible cuts and had to cover up by adding small puzzle piece cut outs to fill the gaps.
3: Having a hard time finding the holes on both sides of the shell opening where the brackets to the glass door latches were and also where the pneumatic arms are attached.
4: Routed the dome light wiring down the wrong side

Tips
1: 3M 90 works better if both surfaces are sprayed then left for a minute before putting together. This allows the adhesive to become tacky, very tacky, very effective, not too forgiving. Read this on the can :grin2:
2: Be patient and Obsessive about doing it properly.
3: Use a respirator/mask. Fumes from the 3M
4: Find out a way to mark the holes where the glass door brackets attach so that the holes can be easily found even with the carpet covering the holes (I still haven't found the holes where the arm bracket attaches :crying:

I was able to tuck the carpet under the rubber seal for the glass door. I had no choice but to do my best and cut the carpet against the non-removable back glass seal.

But either way...... I am extremely happy with the outcome (and so is the wife and dogs)!!!

Now, on to the photos!!!!
 

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Looking good man!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Got a break from the rain and was reminded by my lovely wife that I have a "step" I purchased a few years ago that I need to reattach to the truck. Even just stock, she has a hard time getting in the Tundra. I bought an N-FAB Wheel to Wheel Nerf-Step Bar about 3 years ago and put them on the truck with the hardware that was included. It didn't hold very well, and let me tell you why.

The hardware that came with the N-FAB was self-drilling screws and washers. I'm pretty sure that was it. I bought a tube of Loctite. When they came in, I was excited to unwrap it and get under the truck. I immediately noticed that there are no preexisting holes. Also the NFAB doesn't install to the frame. It is screwed onto the body on a part that I don't know the name of but is shown in the attached picture. And that is the whole install.

Needless to say, loctite and screws are not nearly enough to keep those NFABs on. Go figure....... So I knew that I would need a more permanent solution. And as time went by, I would occasionally tighten the screws and eventually the screws wouldn't hold any more. The NFAB was removed and laid in the garage for a couple years until yesterday.

I went to Ace Hardware and bought 3/8-16 Nutserts/Nut Inserts/Rivet Nuts, hex bolts, split lock washers, and regular washers. Drilled out holes, set the Nutserts, lined up the NFAB, and attached. The hardest part of all this was crushing the Nutserts with the Insert Tool Nut and two wrenches.

I Looked on NFAB's site and it doesn't look like they make them for first gen Tundras anymore.

Once some money comes in, I will be Bedlining the NFABs so they aren't so polished and slippery-when-wet.

Then on to the lift, rims and tires!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
So don't ask me how I managed this...... I was going to go the cheap route and just install a 2 inch leveling kit, but somehow I convinced my wife into allowing me to purchase an OME 2.5 Lift Kit. Yes, I said allow and don't give me any crap about that because you know it's true for you too!!! Anyways.... I digress..... So.....

What comes in this kit is as follows:
2 front coilovers (assembled with new top mounts)
90004 front shocks
2885 front coils
2 OME rear 60091 shocks
2 rear ToyTec AALs.

Thought this was a good all around kit. Plus I didn't want to have to deal with swapping the stock springs. I just ordered these tonight (Thur 3/1)

She already knows we need new tires, but maybe I'll be able to talk her into some new rims as well. The wheels I've been eyeballing are rather cheap but is the style I've been wanting for a long time. Pro Comp Series 97 Size 16x8, backspace 4.25. Now the age old question is.. drum roll please......... with is setup........ will I be able to fit 285/75R16 Nitto Terra Grapplers A/T or HanKook Dynapro A/T (both on sale for $170). I saved a page that listed some required backspaces but can't find it anymore!!!! If my memory serves me right, the 16x8 with a 4.25 backspacing will help with clearing and rubbing the control arms but I'm not sure about the backspacing. As always, any and all input is appreciated. I don't want to replace anything else (UCA or otherwise) but I do know I may have to do the pinchweld smash and shave down my fenders a bit.

pictures of lift kit and rims are attached

link to lift kit
https://bilsteinlifts.com/shop/toyo...dra/ome-2-5-lift-kit-2000-2006-toyota-tundra/

and link to rims
Pro Comp Steel Wheels - Pro Comp Series 97, 16x8 Wheel with 6 on 5.5 Bolt Pattern - Gloss Black 97-6883 | 4WheelParts.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
So I finally re-found the wheel BS/offset Cheat Sheet and it looks like I would need a -12 mm offset for 16x8 wheels with 4 inch BS. Did I read this chart correctly?

I'm now wanting to buy a different set of Pro Comps with the previously mentioned specs. And would like to pair them 285/75r16 Kumho Road Adventure AT51. If someone has a strong and reasonable objection, then I will stick with my original plan of getting the Nitto Terra Gapplers.

I have too much time to keep reading and researching. I just need someone else to tell me I'm right or to correct me please.

Pro Comp Alloy Wheels - Pro Comp Series 7069, 16x8 Wheel with 6 on 5.5 Bolt Pattern - Flat Black Machined - 7069-6883 | 4WheelParts.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's been a few days since I've updated. Here's what's been going on.......

- New brake pads up front

- Installed a back up camera to the decade old head unit. Pioneer makes a universal camera for $100

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Accessories/Rear-View-Cameras/ND-BC8

I installed the camera to the handle for opening the tailgate. The license plate to too far inset into the bumper and you can see the bumper blocking camera view. Placing the camera above the camper glass and I can't even see the end of the bumper no matter how far downward I point the camera. With the camera in the tailgate handle, it is not an eyesore and pretty hidden, I can see the back end of the bumper spanning the width of the screen (unfortunately I can't see the far left and right tips of the bumper), and it's a great angle to see more than far enough behind you.

- Installed the OME lift 2 days ago. The pic is with just the front coilovers installed. Went at the rear AAL the wrong way and was just too hot and tired to move forward and fix it so we put it back together and installed it yesterday. Will post pic a little later. But the AAL didn't nearly raise the rear to match the front. Will be getting a block to raise the rear at least to make level, possibley slightly above level.

- Currently at the shop getting the rims and tires mounted as well as alligning to DJs specs. The shop owner actually asked me to text him a screenshot of DJs specs after I explained to him that DJ worked on developing Hunters and is also a Tundra owner who ran his own tests!!

Sorry I didn't take more photos, especially before and during shots. But will take some more and post soon.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's been a few days since I've updated. Here's what's been going on.......

- New brake pads up front

- Installed a back up camera to the decade old head unit. Pioneer makes a universal camera for $100

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Accessories/Rear-View-Cameras/ND-BC8

I installed the camera to the handle for opening the tailgate. The license plate to too far inset into the bumper and you can see the bumper blocking camera view. Placing the camera above the camper glass and I can't even see the end of the bumper no matter how far downward I point the camera. With the camera in the tailgate handle, it is not an eyesore and pretty hidden, I can see the back end of the bumper spanning the width of the screen (unfortunately I can't see the far left and right tips of the bumper), and it's a great angle to see more than far enough behind you.

- Installed the OME lift 2 days ago. The pic is with just the front coilovers installed. Went at the rear AAL the wrong way and was just too hot and tired to move forward and fix it so we put it back together and installed it yesterday. Will post pic a little later. But the AAL didn't nearly raise the rear to match the front. Will be getting a block to raise the rear at least to make level, possibley slightly above level.

- Currently at the shop getting the rims and tires mounted as well as alligning to DJs specs. The shop owner actually asked me to text him a screenshot of DJs specs after I explained to him that DJ worked on developing Hunters and is also a Tundra owner who ran his own tests!!

Sorry I didn't take more photos, especially before and during shots. But will take some more and post soon.

***** phone is having a hard time getting photos up. Will post pics later
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Uploading photos from my phone before getting some sleep on my road trip. Currently on night #2 of sleeping in my camper shell with the wife and three dogs. Left Monterey, CA two days ago on Monday and slept in the parking lot of Rolling Hills Casino in Corning, CA. Yeah, we didn't get very far the first day because we didn't leave until 4 pm and we ask stopped by a friend's house. No we didn't gamble, just used the farthest corner spot I their giant empty lot.

Woke up and started driving north again. Took a LONG detour to a frozen, but absolutely gorgeous, Crater Lake in Oregon's Cascade Mountains. And now am finally camped at a truck stop.

So without further ado, here are photos. I will fix them later, in about 10 days, when I'm back home on my laptop. Some photos won't post either
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Woke up to a wet pillow and wet mattress pad!!!! I guess there is a leak at the front end of the camper shell, the end nearest the truck cabin. Immediately found a Lowe's half a mile away and bought some rubber window rubber seal and some silicone caulk. Couldn't tell exactly where the rain was leaking in so it covering, what I believe to be, the only two places the water can be coming in from. Found a parking garage and got to work. Slid the shell back and Tada!!! Also adjusted the headlights downward. Got a couple flashes last night.

What a pain to adjust the headlights!! Easy, but a pain. Eventually just grabbed some needlenose pliers and had at it. Good thing I brought tools!!!
 

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