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Guys, I'm looking at purchasing an 07' Tundra 4 x 2 DC SR5 TRD 5.7 SB 6.5ft. I'm doing my homework and have a few questions to help me from getting ripped off in the process.

First off is pricing. For what I'm looking for I believe the Base MSRP is $28,110 plus D & H at $645.00 I believe this is without the TRD Package and I'm not sure of the cost of that. Edmunds.com shows the Invoice at $25,439.

Where do I start the negotiating process? Do I just walk in and tell them that I plan on paying well below MSRP or do you start at telling them you want it for invoice and work up from there. Just trying to get an idea how to get it started before the salesman tries to take the upper hand.

I plan on putting down 15k cash and financing the balance at 5.9% for 60 months but paying it off sooner. I might even consider doing the 3.9% for 36 months if I can handle the payment. I know I'll lose some interest on my money by putting 15k down instead of keeping it in the bank but this is what works for me. I don't want huge monthly payments. Any thoughts?

Is it true that the TRD package on a 4x2 or 4x4 will make the ride a little stiffer than a Tundra without the TRD package? I think I know the answer to that one. I'm currently driving a 96' Tacoma and the bottom line is that either one is going to be a smoother ride compared to that.

Lastly I want to know what you guys recommend and what is a fair price for all the additional extended service plans, paint protection, under coating, oil changes, etc. All that extra stuff that they try to sell you and get an attitude when you don't purchase it. What is nesessary and what is not? I can understand the extended warrarnty because this truck is the first of it's kind for Toyota but what about all the other stuff?

Any feedback or personnal experiences that you've had would be greatly appreciated in helping me make this experience a smooth one.
 

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Guys, I'm looking at purchasing an 07' Tundra 4 x 2 DC SR5 TRD 5.7 SB 6.5ft. I'm doing my homework and have a few questions to help me from getting ripped off in the process.

First off is pricing. For what I'm looking for I believe the Base MSRP is $28,110 plus D & H at $645.00 I believe this is without the TRD Package and I'm not sure of the cost of that. Edmunds.com shows the Invoice at $25,439.

Where do I start the negotiating process? Do I just walk in and tell them that I plan on paying well below MSRP or do you start at telling them you want it for invoice and work up from there. Just trying to get an idea how to get it started before the salesman tries to take the upper hand.

I plan on putting down 15k cash and financing the balance at 5.9% for 60 months but paying it off sooner. I might even consider doing the 3.9% for 36 months if I can handle the payment. I know I'll lose some interest on my money by putting 15k down instead of keeping it in the bank but this is what works for me. I don't want huge monthly payments. Any thoughts?

Is it true that the TRD package on a 4x2 or 4x4 will make the ride a little stiffer than a Tundra without the TRD package? I think I know the answer to that one. I'm currently driving a 96' Tacoma and the bottom line is that either one is going to be a smoother ride compared to that.

Lastly I want to know what you guys recommend and what is a fair price for all the additional extended service plans, paint protection, under coating, oil changes, etc. All that extra stuff that they try to sell you and get an attitude when you don't purchase it. What is nesessary and what is not? I can understand the extended warrarnty because this truck is the first of it's kind for Toyota but what about all the other stuff?

Any feedback or personnal experiences that you've had would be greatly appreciated in helping me make this experience a smooth one.
As for as what you pay for the truck, it does pay to do your homework. Knowing the invoice price does help but really it just depends on how bad the dealer wants to sell and how bad you want the truck. Volume dealers usually have better prices. Once you have a price in mind that you want to pay then stick to it and shop around. If you can't find the exact truck that you want then you may have to compromise and get one with different options. I know some areas have availability problems. You are going to get the best deal on a truck that is already on the lot.

As far as the extra stuff, it's all a matter of personal choice. I purchased the extended warranty and the paint protection. I like having the peace of mind that the extended warranty offers and i hate waxing. I think i paid about $1500 for the warranty and the paint protection. The price on this stuff is negotiable just like everything else.

Good luck and just remember to stick to your guns when shopping for the truck you want. You have to be ready to walk away, which is hard to do sometimes when you find the perfect truck. I ended up paying more money than i wanted to get that perfect truck. Still got it for $2k under MSRP. I know some guys that will not pay over invoice, but in this area the new Tundra is a hot seller and it's tough to get that kind of a deal. Maybe on a truck that's been on the lot for a while, but those are usually the high option (limited) models.
 

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Start your pricing discussion by asking him to show you the invoice. At the bottom, you'll see base invoice cost, then delivery ($645), TDA($415), gas ($10 - what they put in at the factory) then probably holdback ($600 or so) and then Whsl Financial Reserve (300 or so). Take the holdback off his invoice price (Toyota pays him that, so if you pay it too, he's getting 1200+ profit right off the top. If the vehicle has just arrived at the lot, then you can negotiate the financial reserve $ off too - that's money to help with their finance cost of holding inventory -= if they're not holding inventory, then they don't need it.

You can try to negotiate under invoice, by the amount of the holdback, plus any incentives in your region (check Edmunds.com) but if you get within 500 of invoice, you're doing better than most.

TRD ride will be stiffer.

I decline all the extra stuff they try to sell you at paper signing. Some here have different opinions of the extended warranty and such. If you have the cold kit, which you probably will, then you don't need any extra undercoating or rustproofing. Paint protection is a joke. Just keep it waxed with a quality product.
 

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Paint protection is a joke. Just keep it waxed with a quality product.
Simoniz is no joke. You don't have to wax and they warranty against any damage from birds, bugs, tree sap, acid rain, etc. for 5 years. The "no wax" thing is worth the cost to me. Waxing a big truck like the Tundra is a big job and it needs to be done at least twice a year if you want to keep the paint protected.
 

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I think at least 2K off MSRP is the least I would go for. I would start out asking for 3500 off or so and negotiate from there. We just bought our tundra last saturday and had a great experience. Along with the deal we got a discount on line-x, free window tint and pin striping. I would also consider free mud flaps, all weathe mats, etc...anything is negotiable.
Good luck, you will love the truck.
Cheers.:)
 

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Simoniz is no joke. You don't have to wax and they warranty against any damage from birds, bugs, tree sap, acid rain, etc. for 5 years. The "no wax" thing is worth the cost to me. Waxing a big truck like the Tundra is a big job and it needs to be done at least twice a year if you want to keep the paint protected.

I thought that stuff was a joke? Are you serious? If you are my apologies.
 

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Guys, I'm looking at purchasing an 07' Tundra 4 x 2 DC SR5 TRD 5.7 SB 6.5ft. I'm doing my homework and have a few questions to help me from getting ripped off in the process.

First off is pricing. For what I'm looking for I believe the Base MSRP is $28,110 plus D & H at $645.00 I believe this is without the TRD Package and I'm not sure of the cost of that. Edmunds.com shows the Invoice at $25,439.

Where do I start the negotiating process? Do I just walk in and tell them that I plan on paying well below MSRP or do you start at telling them you want it for invoice and work up from there. Just trying to get an idea how to get it started before the salesman tries to take the upper hand.

I plan on putting down 15k cash and financing the balance at 5.9% for 60 months but paying it off sooner. I might even consider doing the 3.9% for 36 months if I can handle the payment. I know I'll lose some interest on my money by putting 15k down instead of keeping it in the bank but this is what works for me. I don't want huge monthly payments. Any thoughts?

Is it true that the TRD package on a 4x2 or 4x4 will make the ride a little stiffer than a Tundra without the TRD package? I think I know the answer to that one. I'm currently driving a 96' Tacoma and the bottom line is that either one is going to be a smoother ride compared to that.

Lastly I want to know what you guys recommend and what is a fair price for all the additional extended service plans, paint protection, under coating, oil changes, etc. All that extra stuff that they try to sell you and get an attitude when you don't purchase it. What is nesessary and what is not? I can understand the extended warrarnty because this truck is the first of it's kind for Toyota but what about all the other stuff?

Any feedback or personnal experiences that you've had would be greatly appreciated in helping me make this experience a smooth one.
I bought mine 2nd week in feb. and got the 4x2 sr5 trd with bluetooth, chrome side steps, Timberland Mica w/ graphite interior, all weather mats, and 5.7 engine. Paid(after neg.) 31500 and bought an extended warranty to include towing and replacment vehicle for 1200. After taxes and destination charges, I financed 33260 at 7.2%. Thougt iI got a grat deal. I put on my own dimming mirror and dual exhaust, door step protectors, and had my line-x done myself. GOOD LUCK!!!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I bought mine 2nd week in feb. and got the 4x2 sr5 trd with bluetooth, chrome side steps, Timberland Mica w/ graphite interior, all weather mats, and 5.7 engine. Paid(after neg.) 31500 and bought an extended warranty to include towing and replacment vehicle for 1200. After taxes and destination charges, I financed 33260 at 7.2%. Thougt iI got a grat deal. I put on my own dimming mirror and dual exhaust, door step protectors, and had my line-x done myself. GOOD LUCK!!!:)

Thanks for all the info guys. Keep it coming. I love to hear what everyone's getting there trucks for and the negotiating process. I have someone now that has already told me they will sell me one at invoice. 3k off MSRP. Just wondering if I should push the issue and try to get some other things added on. I'm sure I will. Thx.
 

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Thanks for all the info guys. Keep it coming. I love to hear what everyone's getting there trucks for and the negotiating process. I have some now that has already told me they will sell me one at invoice. Just wondering if I should push the issue and try to get some other things added on. I'm sure I will. Thx.
Add ons by the dealer are what they rip ypu on. Most of the are very easy to put on and if you have the ca$h do it yourslef and save!!!!;)
 

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Dealer addendum stickers (paint protectant, undercoating, fabric protectant etc., fancy wheels, step rails bedliners) are used by the dealer in a couple of ways. If the package cost him $231.00 and he charges $699.00 ie. SE Toyota Toyo Guard Plus. He can use that difference to give you more for your trade if that what he thinks is gonna sell you or as a starting point in negotiations and still not get into the MSRP. The salesman gets his money based on how close to the MSRP he sells you the truck. All those add ons are investments the dealer makes, marks up big time and uses as negotiating tools to give you what "it takes to get you buy it today!" Always get a firm price for the truck before you get a price for a trade and beware of the Finance Manager, he's the best salesman on the lot and will kill you on the back end if you're not careful. Join a credit union, sell you trade yourself, buy over the internet.

Tom-O
 

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Simoniz is no joke. You don't have to wax and they warranty against any damage from birds, bugs, tree sap, acid rain, etc. for 5 years. The "no wax" thing is worth the cost to me. Waxing a big truck like the Tundra is a big job and it needs to be done at least twice a year if you want to keep the paint protected.
That stuff does not compare to a quality wax job done at least twice a year. Healthy, well taken care of paint is silky smooth...smoother than a babies bottom and the treatment that they do will not keep your paint smooth like that at all.

If that stuff was sooo good, it would've put car/truck detailers out of business. Save your money and spend some quality time with the truck giving it a good bath and a good wax job.
 

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I thought that stuff was a joke? Are you serious? If you are my apologies.

There is NO brand of wax in the world that will last for 5 years. Paint protection is not one of the dealers most honest points of sale. Even the most expensive boutique brand waxes will only last 4-6 months topps. Multiple layers will give you longer protection, but only starting again from the point of that layer.

Youre vehicle needs proper prep work before any polish and wax job. Unless the dealer is claying, polishing and waxing, youre paint protection is only sealing in the contaminents trapped in the paint. A friend of mine got roped into buying paint protection for his Nissan. Now he says it was the worst $500 he's ever spent and a total joke. Whats worse, is that they claim to have Teflon in it. lol It may shine for about a week or two and a few washes, but thats about all its good for.

As for time to wax a Tundra, I can apply a layer of Zaino to my truck in about 5-10 minutes, let it set up for about an hour while I clean the interior and then buff it off in about 10 minutes. Total wax job time maybe totaling 20 minutes.

If you personally like the appearance of the Simoniz and are happy with your purchase, then thats all that really matters. But please do not be mislead into thinking that your clear coat wont be etched by bird poop or tree sap. The acid in bird droppings can etch your clear coat in a matter of hours if left alone, no matter what wax or sealant you have.
 

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There is NO brand of wax in the world that will last for 5 years.
Simoniz is not a wax it is a sealant. Have you ever used this product? Or known anyone that has used this product? I have seen for myself how nice a 3-year-old "unwaxed" car looked after having this treatment. Yes, there is a huge dealer markup - no argument there. Does it last for 5 years? I doubt it. Sealant break down over time just like waxes - they just last a lot longer.
 

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Simoniz is not a wax it is a sealant. Have you ever used this product? Or known anyone that has used this product? I have seen for myself how nice a 3-year-old "unwaxed" car looked after having this treatment. Yes, there is a huge dealer markup - no argument there. Does it last for 5 years? I doubt it. Sealant break down over time just like waxes - they just last a lot longer.
My neighbor has it on his Mercedes and even he can't stand it. The paint does not have the depth, or that POP a good wax job gives you. Save your money like I said.
 

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Guys, I'm looking at purchasing an 07' Tundra...
2 words: Car Broker! A broker will deal only with the fleet managers and bypass the salesfolks on the floor. Google search your area for one and give em a call. A good broker will have an unchanging price for you within minutes and will search inventory thruout your state for the car you want. I acquired my last 3 vehicles thru one and it was painless and fast.

Avoid any dealer gunk or rust protection, it's a Toyota and has 7-10 years of warranty on that already. Don't let the dealer badge it either. All you need them to do is prep it. If you go thru a dealer avoid salesfolks who door pop you, try an get a recommend on one who is trusted.

There are a million tactics, words of advise etc. on buying a vehicle but every transaction is unique. Don't let your intense desire for the Tunny get in the way of a good deal. Be prepared to walk if deal smells fishy but don't forget that if you're looking at the perfect truck for you it may be a while before it shows up again.
 

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Dealer addendum stickers (paint protectant, undercoating, fabric protectant etc., fancy wheels, step rails bedliners) are used by the dealer in a couple of ways. If the package cost him $231.00 and he charges $699.00 ie. SE Toyota Toyo Guard Plus. He can use that difference to give you more for your trade if that what he thinks is gonna sell you or as a starting point in negotiations and still not get into the MSRP. The salesman gets his money based on how close to the MSRP he sells you the truck. All those add ons are investments the dealer makes, marks up big time and uses as negotiating tools to give you what "it takes to get you buy it today!" Always get a firm price for the truck before you get a price for a trade and beware of the Finance Manager, he's the best salesman on the lot and will kill you on the back end if you're not careful. Join a credit union, sell you trade yourself, buy over the internet.

Tom-O
I'm not certain where you got your information. This has not been the way any dealership I worked at ran their business. Salesmen were paid a fixed amount of money for a new car sale (about $150) or used car sale (about $300). It wasn't up to them to "make the deal." Why on earth did we have to keep running back to the Finance man if we could make the deal?

The finance man was usually the worst person with people ever. That's why they stuck him in a hole. But yes, he can screw you on the back end.

(1) Don't finance through the dealer unless it's a significantly better deal. Read all of the fine print (have them fax over a copy of their typical loan agreement first!). If you do plan on using dealer financing, negotiate lower by having a bank loan in hand as well.

(2) Know exactly what you want before you go.

(3) Use edmunds or KBB to find out what invoice is. They're usually within $100 either way (they've often been LOWER in my experience).

(4) Extended warranties are up to you. I would pass on just about everything else. Often you can get superior products aftermarket (spray-in liners for example).

(5) If you're trading in your car, know what you can get for it. Don't let the finance man screw you _too_ much. Think of the difference between KBB and what you're offered as the cost of not having to sell the car yourself.

(6) You must be able to walk away and tell the dealer why you are doing so and what he needs to do to make the sale. You obviously can't be unreasonable (e.g. $5,000 below invoice).

(7) Every single thing is negotiable.

Best of luck!
 

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Simoniz is not a wax it is a sealant. Have you ever used this product? Or known anyone that has used this product? I have seen for myself how nice a 3-year-old "unwaxed" car looked after having this treatment. Yes, there is a huge dealer markup - no argument there. Does it last for 5 years? I doubt it. Sealant break down over time just like waxes - they just last a lot longer.
If you believe that, then by all means enjoy your purchase. Wish you the best of luck with that.
 

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Its been a while since I worked on a car lot but here's how we were paid:
MSRP or above: 30% of the dealers profit
Anything else down to invoice: 20%
Invoice or below: $150
Plus incentives on certain cars that weren't selling or had been on the lot along time... typically $150 but sometimes up to $300.

I could see how a fixed payout might work at a Saturn style "no haggle dealer" but what was the incentive for the salesperson to get the highest price possible?

The dealership I worked at last was a "hide their trade on the back lot, throw their keys on the roof, whatever you do don't let 'um leave, high pressure circus."

At $150 per car, you'd have to sell 40 cars a month to clear 70K. That's hard work.

Here's a link to a good read about selling cars:

Confessions of a Car Salesman

Tom-O
 
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