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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help!! Kinda stuck my alternator does not seem to be charging. The dash gauge indicates low voltage and does not move when I give it gas, I also have a gauge plugged into the power outlet giving me the same info yet the battery light on the dash is not lit, maybe did not get low enough yet. A/C does not work, also back-up lites and DRL lights. Lights do work when I turn them on, everything else works ok ?? Maybe the system shuts these off if alt is not working?? It is Sunday and can't get to a dealer and It is the only transportation I have. It is a 2006 4.7 2wd, SR5, Access Cab with 18,000mi. Is it possible that there is a relay or a fuse that is cutting off the charging?? I checked all the fuses all ok, cked all connections OK. Charged battery and it took charge up to 12.5.??? Anyone know how many miles it will go on a full charge?? Dealer is 30 miles away!! Did a search and Alt problems seem to be, None..?? Any help sure would be appreciated !!!!!!!!!
 

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If the battery charged only to 12.5V, it sounds like the battery may be bad.

I would think you could make 30 miles on battery alone, just keep all accessories and lights off. I would even disconnect the alternator output to ensure it is not drawing the battery down. Maybe take a backup battery just in case.
 

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Post this in the Gen 1 forum, you are scaring the crap out of us 07 owners.
 

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Post this in the Gen 1 forum, you are scaring the crap out of us 07 owners.
and you think your 07 truck is any different jeez you new owner's amaze me LOL :rolleyes: hate to say but many of the part's go from the older Toyota trucks go into other Toyota truck's part's bin that's a proven fact like the 00 Brakes on a Tundra were used from a Tacoma guess you have to buy a lot of them to understand that concept surly i am on My 4th Toyota and it's not my last..
 

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and you think your 07 truck is any different jeez you new owner's amaze me LOL :rolleyes: hate to say but many of the part's go from the older Toyota trucks go into other Toyota truck's part's bin that's a proven fact like the 00 Brakes on a Tundra were used from a Tacoma guess you have to buy a lot of them to understand..
:confused: I see the words but don't understand a one of them.
 

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:confused: I see the words but don't understand a one of them.

Not too hard to figure out :sleep: your just a superficial ts member. You suit this forum rather well there are enough of those types on Ts and just because you have an 07 doesnt mean you know anything about production and overall features I on the other hand know what im talking about it's all in the detail's.

Erik
 

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Jedi Ninja in Training
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Not too hard to figure out :sleep: your just a superficial ts member. You suit this forum rather well there are enough of those types on Ts and just because you have an 07 doesnt mean you know anything about production and overall features I on the other hand know what im talking about it's all in the detail's.

Erik
Erik,

Grow up.
 

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Erik,

Grow up.
smart choice of word but i have growen up.I would rather see your post as not confined to I have a 2007 mine is better then your's attitude you love to display on a few of your post. I think you need to grow up and ditch your attitude it's not too hard to figure that out many other people have pointed that out to you..

Erik
have a great day I feel this can be handled on a pm vs an open thread.
 

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Both of you grow up. :rolleyes:



Y'all are condeming the battery due to it having 12.5 volts? Come on. The battery is comprised of 6 cells that have 2.1 volts each when fully charged. That comes out to 12.6 volts for a full charge. So, since his battery is coming out .1 volts less, it's automatically bad? Give me a break. The meter used to test it could be .1 volts off. It's well within specs.

While the alternator could be bad too, being that new, I would suspect that it's not. I would first be scouring all over the fuses/fuseable links. I have a feeling one/many of them have popped.

As for the battery alone getting you to a dealer 30 miles away, it should be able to do it. Not the best way, of course, but if necessary, it should be able to get you there. I once drove close to 50 miles (with at least 35 miles of that in stop and go traffic) with an electric fan running because the bracket holding the alternator on an older truck I had at the time busted. I made it all the way with no problem. But of course that was an Optima battery and not the regular battery.
 

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the smart thing to do would to test the power at the battery when the truck is running and it should read about 14.4 if it doesemt then you know its a charging problem .. also if you have a battery load tester use that to test the battery .. just using a volt meter on the battery will not tell you much because the battery may have surface power but when it needs the cca's but wont have the power to crank the starter
 

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Well it sounds like you need to visit the dealer for some service. I would also start the truck with the lights and ac on and take a reading from the battery terminals as was already mentioned. The voltage regulator is built into most modern vehicles so if the voltage is low while the engine is running it's bad and needs to be replaced. Low voltage can cause numerous other systems to malfunction that are triggered by a low voltage situation. I just went through this on my sons buick as his low voltage triggered other warning lights. Once the alternator was replaced and proper voltage was restored to the systems the lights went out.
 

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the smart thing to do would to test the power at the battery when the truck is running and it should read about 14.4 if it doesemt then you know its a charging problem .. also if you have a battery load tester use that to test the battery .. just using a volt meter on the battery will not tell you much because the battery may have surface power but when it needs the cca's but wont have the power to crank the starter
Like he said test it while running this will eliminate if its the alternator not charging.
 

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1) Moderators, please move this to the appropriate forum

2) The people here seem to be on the verge of a breakdown over the smallest of issues. I shudder to think what would happen if the Tundra were to have an actual problem. Probably mass hysteria.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
UPDATE!! Sorry!! for posting to wrong forum, I forgot about the split. Thanks for all the responses. I took it to the dealer about a mile from my place & they went thru it and I ended up with a new battery. 3rd new car that the OEM Delco batt. went out in1-1/2yrs. They put in a Toyota Batt. non-sealed. Hope they charged it properly before they put it in. 84mo warranty. I talked to a tech that said that the computer steps down units starting with the highest draw, A/C, and keep shutting off items until a certain low voltage and then just shuts everything off even though batt. is what we would call usable. To save damage to components trying to draw on low amperage. The starter solenoid will not work even a 11.5 volts. It seems the gauges read thru the battery instead of directly from alternator. Alt on Toyotas are pretty much bullet proof thats why I questioned the readings . Tech says never try to drive very far on dying batt. it will shut down anytime. Way before it is actually dead..Tundra runs Life is good!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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UPDATE!! Sorry!! for posting to wrong forum, I forgot about the split. Thanks for all the responses. I took it to the dealer about a mile from my place & they went thru it and I ended up with a new battery. 3rd new car that the OEM Delco batt. went out in1-1/2yrs. They put in a Toyota Batt. non-sealed. Hope they charged it properly before they put it in. 84mo warranty. I talked to a tech that said that the computer steps down units starting with the highest draw, A/C, and keep shutting off items until a certain low voltage and then just shuts everything off even though batt. is what we would call usable. To save damage to components trying to draw on low amperage. The starter solenoid will not work even a 11.5 volts. It seems the gauges read thru the battery instead of directly from alternator. Alt on Toyotas are pretty much bullet proof thats why I questioned the readings . Tech says never try to drive very far on dying batt. it will shut down anytime. Way before it is actually dead..Tundra runs Life is good!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good luck with Toyota batteries Mine died last week generally speaking Toyota exite batteries are the Lowest grade possible on amp rating's My new battery has 789 amp's vs the Toyota battery which is rated at like 550 amp's and as we all know the larger the number the better the battery will last..
 

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Not because it has 12.5 volts, but because it was connected to a charger and was fully charged to 12.5 volts. A fully charged car battery should charge to 13 or 14 volts. Straight off the charger, if it only has 12.5 volts then it might be going dead and probably won't hold a charge for that long.
Obviously it appears that his battery was bad, but anyways ...

What it comes down to is that the battery, while just sitting there storing it's charge, will be roughly 12.6 volts due to there being 6 cells and each one is roughly 2.1 volts at full charge. 6x2.1=12.6 ;) Remember, that's just sitting there storing it's charge. Now if there's a short, it can register a false reading to the meter. That's why you have to load test it to be sure that it's good.

The charger itself should be putting out around 14 volts. Should be a little bit higher, but a little lower is acceptable too. So long as it's more than what the battery can store, then it's technically "acceptable" ... so long as it's not excessively overcharging, ie 15+ volts.

And no, it will not have a "residual" charge coming straight off the charger. As soon as the charger is removed, all you will read is the amount that is stored in the battery itself.
 

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I noticed my guage was bumping just under the half way mark. I checked the bat and it was carrying 12.39v. Optima red top. Took it in for replacement and new bat read 12.6v before install. I crank the truck and it gives me 13.9v-14.2v. My altima gives me 14.4v when on. Possible alternator problem or is it acceptable. The manual says between the low mark and 4th mark is fine.
 

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I noticed my guage was bumping just under the half way mark. I checked the bat and it was carrying 12.39v. Optima red top. Took it in for replacement and new bat read 12.6v before install. I crank the truck and it gives me 13.9v-14.2v. My altima gives me 14.4v when on. Possible alternator problem or is it acceptable. The manual says between the low mark and 4th mark is fine.
The voltage output of your alternator will vary on vehicles. You have a "voltage regulator" that governs the voltage output of the alternator. It will put out what is required (within limits) for the draw your vehicle is using. Both readings you gave are "good".
 

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Thanks for the heads up! I checked again and the bat was charging a little lower at aroung 13.68V, which I still think is ok. I guess I just never paid attention to the gauge. It was kinda funky seeing it drop below the halfway mark. I took a 20 mile trip tonight and it moved up and down slightly over half and between the last acceptable line. It stayed closer to halfway most of the time. I reved the engine with the lights on to see if there was any difference but no. Again thanks for the help. :thumb: I've got a 1,000 mile trip planned and I don't want to be left stranded.

The voltage output of your alternator will vary on vehicles. You have a "voltage regulator" that governs the voltage output of the alternator. It will put out what is required (within limits) for the draw your vehicle is using. Both readings you gave are "good".
 
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