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I just bought mine and installed them last week...the H1's...worked great...Not sure in the difference? I have seen some have 3 notches and some have 5 notches, mine had 5...maybe that is the difference?
 

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Generally, that last digit doesn't matter. Bilstein uses that last digit to signify a minor change, and usually the changes don't affect valving (sometimes they do, so always check beforehand if you're thinking about running an H0 on the right and an H1 on the left for instance). The H0 and H5 have just been replaced by H1 and H7.
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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Generally, that last digit doesn't matter. Bilstein uses that last digit to signify a minor change, and usually the changes don't affect valving (sometimes they do, so always check beforehand if you're thinking about running an H0 on the right and an H1 on the left for instance). The H0 and H5 have just been replaced by H1 and H7.
Usually? Sometimes? You're not really telling us anything. I guess what would be nice to know is what changes were made that signified a product code designation change...
 

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I spoke to Bilstein and their techs don't have access to exactly what changed between 6929-h0 and 6929-h1, he thought it might have been where the shock was produced though. They did tell me that the only change between A014-H5 and H7 was that a different box that the shock comes in.

I apologize if I was being ambiguous, one of the salespeople told me in the past that occasionally the valving will change when they move H0 to H1, but when I spoke to a tech he assured me that that wasn't the case, the 6929-H0 and 6929-H1 are exactly the same, as are the A014-H5 and A014-H7.
 

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I spoke to Bilstein and their techs don't have access to exactly what changed between 6929-h0 and 6929-h1, he thought it might have been where the shock was produced though. They did tell me that the only change between A014-H5 and H7 was that a different box that the shock comes in.

I apologize if I was being ambiguous, one of the salespeople told me in the past that occasionally the valving will change when they move H0 to H1, but when I spoke to a tech he assured me that that wasn't the case, the 6929-H0 and 6929-H1 are exactly the same, as are the A014-H5 and A014-H7.
Perfect! Thanks for researching that and getting back to us. Much appreciated! :tu:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One last question that has me sitting idle yet... For my leveling, I want to do the rear with a 1 to 1.5" steel block for now (where can I get a solid 1.5"??) and the bilstein rears are like this... F4-BE5-A0104-H7 for 0-1" of lift and the Bilstein RCD F4-BE5-C478-T0 is for 1-2" of lift.. If I am at 1" of lift, which one should I pick? Are the RCD ones available at shockwarehouse?

Sorry for all the questions...
 

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One last question that has me sitting idle yet... For my leveling, I want to do the rear with a 1 to 1.5" steel block for now (where can I get a solid 1.5"??) and the bilstein rears are like this... F4-BE5-A0104-H7 for 0-1" of lift and the Bilstein RCD F4-BE5-C478-T0 is for 1-2" of lift.. If I am at 1" of lift, which one should I pick? Are the RCD ones available at shockwarehouse?

Sorry for all the questions...
The -H7 for one inch of lift. I have the Toytec 1" lift leaf spring and went with -H7 per their advice.
 

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I just ordered my F4-BE5-6929-H1 (Front) and F4-BE5-A014-H7 (Rear) from Summit Racing and they should be here on Friday. Cant wait to get all my goodies in... LOL
 
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