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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '01 Tundra's check engine light (CEL) came on a few weeks ago. I tested the OBDII at Autozone and the oxygen sensor was bad as I suspected. I purchased a universal sensor because I am cheap and I have the "I think I can fix anything" complex. I replaced it, reset the ECU by pulling the battery, light came back on shortly after.

Autozone tester said it was both front O2 sensors this time. So I replaced the other front sensor at this time. I purchased both sensors from Car Parts Wholesale on Ebay. eBay My World - carpartswholesale

I tested the voltage and it appears okay. The problem appears to be the heater circuit. The Autozone tester said it was the heater circuit as well. Both sensors give infinite resistance when it should be in the range of 4-7 ohms.

I am really frustrated and I want to pull my hair out. I have to get the state inspection next month and I want to get this fixed ASAP. I would appreciate any help.

Somebody will question the wiring so I will go ahead and say that I am 99% sure I have it done correctly.

I appreciate the help.
 

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Let me make sure I'm following you correctly. When you do the test described in this post you get infinite resistance?
If that's the case, I'd think that would indicate the heater circuit is broken somewhere in the sensor.
If you can, I'd return the universal sensors and get the OEM sensors. If the universals are wired correctly (sounds like you're confident they are), and if the sensors didn't change between 2001 & 2002 (doubt they did), the resistance should match the specs in that post. If not, they're not going to work.
If the sensors do test good and the error returns after being cleared, I'd say you have a problem with the vehicle's electrical system...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I agree. I am working on returning them right now. Getting the RMA information. I misspoke about the infinite resistance. It actually has no resistance. Instead of the 4-7 ohms it is 0 ohms. I was mainly posted to see if any one else had a similar problem. Thank you for the reply.
 

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You have to be carefull about having Auto Zone test ran and then start replacing parts. The tester just shows that you have a problem in the O2 curcuit ( including O2 sensor ). It could very well be a wiring problem or something else that would draw a O2 code. I have the same complex of thinking that I can fix anything but sometimes it just pays to let the pros do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am positive that it was the oxygen sensor that is bad. When you put an ohm meter across the heater circuit of the one that did not trip there was appoximately 12 ohms of resistance. When the other one is tested, the ohm meter doesn't move which means there is infinite resisance = open circuit.

Again, I was polling for experience with generic (universal) 4-wire oxygen sensors. The sensor was purchased from Car Parts Wholesale. They have a pretty large operation out of CA.

I am returning the two I purchased and I am going to then purchase the Denso Universal oxygen sensors. I have read from posters that these actually work.

It isn't that I can't afford the plug and play sensors, it that I am capable of saving money and would prefer to spend my money on other things. Engineers are notorious for being tight (and not being able to spell).

Out of curiosity, I am going to make the following statement.

I have built a SmacksBooster (HHO Generator) and I want my truck to be operating at normal conditions before i start doing my baseline tests to determine if there is any net gain in gas mileage. If interested google smacksbooster and you will know as much as I do about it (well, almost).

Cheers.
 

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universal sensors will work, although you will want to use crimps to attach your wires. Do not solder.

I am very interested in your Smacks Booster test. Please keep us informed, maybe start a new thread
 
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