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Discussion Starter #1
So at times that i go too fast in a turn the alarm goes off and i hear a beep beep beep type alarm.
BUT here the problem, i also hear and feel a grind or a rubbing sound. It's like my wheel is moving off it axiles and the wheel is hitting something. i don't know what is happening, maybe a wheel bearing issue but i just dont know.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know. Thanks
 

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If it's a gen 1 tundra or sequoia, could be the vsc and the grinding noise could be the abs control module working one of the front wheels.

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry left out it a 2005 Sequoia 2wd with. 210,000 miles.

Not sure what the VSC is. I'll look that up. Seems too violent for abs. Thanks Tekem


Edit, So i read about the VSC and if i understand what it does is apply brakes only to the front outer wheel. So yeah that is where to noise was coming from. Maybe if only 1 wheel is a hitting it's anti-lock brake i guess it would be loud and strong feeling. I was towing a boat at the time on a very narrow windy road maybe 20-30 MPH and it scared my wife (it was the passenger side the made the noise). She though something hit under the truck. I experienced it before on the driver side too but at higher speeds on 270 degree turn around hwy to hwy type off ramps. ( i tend to drive fast).

Honestly the anti roll alarm seems a little premature on the hwy to hwy off ramp and kind of annoying, but i can see it working at the right time for inexperienced drivers with narrower stock wheels.
 

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If lifted, it's more premature because you have changed the height, mine does it every time on one particular exit ramp
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So you get the grinding type sound and sensation also?

I have a little 1.5"- 2" lift spacers and run 1" wheel spacers
 

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Yup that’s what it is, welcome to the club! Wondering what could help, it didn’t do this before I installed SPC UCA’s and I had the lift. Probably to much articulation now, maybe some aftermarket sway bar links... hmm thanks for listening to my rant
 

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I took the opportunity last winter to explore the handling characteristics of the safety systems of my rig in an empty parking lot (hooning around). I was mostly interested to see if the systems still worked and what the limits were before they kicked in never having a car with these systems in them before. It was both entertaining and informative.
 

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Maybe a zero point calibration may help. Friend had similar situation on his 06 tundra when he installed slightly larger tires. It would do a stuttered beep and apply brakes. We did the ZPC and it fixed the issue.
 

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1st Generation VSC is definitely too sensitive. It forces you to change how you drive compared to other vehicles. There is one stop sign right angle tune that has a small bump to it near my house onto the service road for a highway. Turning right from the stop sign, I start accellerating normally, let the front wheels hit the bump, lift throttle immediately after letting the back wheels coast over before reapplying the throttle. If I do not lift, the combination sharp right turn unweighting the right rear wheel will trigger the traction control witch every time. Has done it ever since new and the vehicle is a 2002 with 225000 miles on it. Can't count how many times in 19 years (took delivery of vehicle in Nov 2001 in case you are checking my math) I have gone over that spot and if I don't lift or wait a little too late, the witch slaps me and kills the power briefly. It has had recalibration from time to time as yaw angle sensors and other things had to be replaced over the years.
 

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What is a zero point calibration? And how can I get it done
Look for my posts on it. Just search the forum. You can go to a shop to do it, or do it yourself with a paperclip. I do it myself to ensure my sensors are working properly

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First I apologize for the length of my post but I figured out a couple other things that go along with this that could be helpful to some folks.

So Ive done the zero point calibration along with the steering wheel position sensor and it did clear my dash codes I had BUT the trac is still over sensitive. I used the method @Tekem uses and it worked fine. I then had a shop read the system with the toyota scan software and clear some codes further down the line after installing new front ABS sensors that I hadn't fully seated due to some large O-rings that were preventing them from seating all the way.

Anyway, when I say the ABS is over sensitive I mean it is WAY more sensitive then when I was stock. Now with a 2" OME lift and SPCs it is much more noticeable. I do a lot of on and off-road driving as well as winter/snow driving. (I previously had 5100's leveling the front with the same tires im running now and stock UCA's without any change in the trac control from stock which was great. I lifted with 2" OME all the way around and hadn't installed the SPC UCA's yet and nothing changed.) As soon as I installed the SPC UCA's and got an alignment my issues began.

I originally thought it was a steering wheel angle sensor due to the alignment shop changing the position of the steering wheel during alignment, should have been straight forward... Nope. I finally sourced a shop that is super helpful and has dealt with this in the past (WTF A shop that actually has knowledge of this issue!) They hooked my truck up once again to the scan software and they are able to get 0's across the board for steering wheel angle sensor, ABS, etc.. there is an issue with the brake pedal stroke sensor. Anyone else have a brake light indicator light on the dash without having your parking brake depressed? This is related and that is just the start to the sensor going bad.. Mine has done this since I purchased it a few years ago.

There are 2 sensors under the master cylinder, these are them. They aren't correctly reading and are applying brake due to them thinking the tires are over spinning, etc. These are some $$$$ sensors, (Toyota part #89637D) @ about $200/pc IF you can find them separate from the master. Toyota sells them with the master for $549 which for a toyota part isn't too bad but I was able to source one from a local parts distributor that supplies all of CA for $150 and they are delivering tomorrow. IF this doesn't fix the issue my next step is to swap the CPU for the ABS. Im really hoping it doesn't come to that. From what I have researched this SHOULD fix my problem in conjunction with hooking back up to the software and clearing the internal codes (No dash lights this is an internal code on the computer due to the brake position sensor /proportioning valve not getting up to its optimal output voltage in order to clear and read) Ill update this thread when I finish the job. Wish me luck! Oh and the shop I went to this morning was a recommendation from a 4x4 shop I have never been to that I call to ask about this issue. They didnt charge me a dime for the help. Spent 3 hours going over options, fixes, etc.

Thanks to everyone on this forum who has supplied useful information from your own trials, errors and experience. It is greatly appreciated. Hope this can help someone else down the line.

Toyota Part #89637D

IMG_0208.jpeg IMG_0207.jpeg
 

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This would be an epic find. I never thought of checking the load sensing proportioning valves.

But this may explain why the abs may act up.
I have tried changing the wheel speed sensors, and the cleaned particles of rust/metal dust build up on them from time to time. I even changed out the abs/vsc computers as a test and still, i could never get rid of this 100%.

The zpc and ensuring the steering wheel was perfectly centered and reading angle of "0" helped, but still that crazy traction control would kick in from time to time.

If this helps, please let us know. Reading about it sounds like its definitely part of the issue



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Toyota Part #89637D
Did this end up fixing your VSC and ABS issues? Mine used to be hilariously over sensitive even after a new steering angle sensor and ZPC so I just unplugged the master cylinder sensor. Works great without VSC but A-trac is now also disabled, which sucks with stock open diffs. :(
 

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Just a little update. The parts guys in Sacramento screwed me and didn’t deliver the part. It’s suppose to get here sometime next week. So I went for the fingers crossed quick fix. Today I took both sensors out of the bottom of the master cylinder, cleaned them up nicely with some mass airflow sensor and reinstalled. Initially I lost brake pressure upon reinstall and again VSC and TRAC and BRAKE lights illuminated on dash. After pumping the brakes and driving for about 10 miles I stopped for gas and the dash lights reset and are off. Brakes feel great and the vsc trac system is working. It’s still a little sensitive so I’m going to install the new master with sensors once it comes in. Figured I’d update you all since I thought I would have this done by now.

More to come soon. If the Sacramento parts guys flake the “local” pick and pull has 3 sequoias I will check out and pull the master and sensors from.

Question, does anyone think a brake flush could help with the pressure sensor reading properly? It could in my opinion just not sure I want to put the effort into it without replacing the entire master but that’s me being lazy and not wanting to do it twice.
 

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Just a little update. The parts guys in Sacramento screwed me and didn’t deliver the part. It’s suppose to get here sometime next week. So I went for the fingers crossed quick fix. Today I took both sensors out of the bottom of the master cylinder, cleaned them up nicely with some mass airflow sensor and reinstalled. Initially I lost brake pressure upon reinstall and again VSC and TRAC and BRAKE lights illuminated on dash. After pumping the brakes and driving for about 10 miles I stopped for gas and the dash lights reset and are off. Brakes feel great and the vsc trac system is working. It’s still a little sensitive so I’m going to install the new master with sensors once it comes in. Figured I’d update you all since I thought I would have this done by now.

More to come soon. If the Sacramento parts guys flake the “local” pick and pull has 3 sequoias I will check out and pull the master and sensors from.

Question, does anyone think a brake flush could help with the pressure sensor reading properly? It could in my opinion just not sure I want to put the effort into it without replacing the entire master but that’s me being lazy and not wanting to do it twice.
I have the pheonix v5 reverse brake bleed system. Its how i flush out the brake system on my vehicles to ensure that the lines are clear of air or debris. Ive done this a few times on my truck and i would imagine it would handle those sensors on the master cylinder. I am going to try tapping the sensors as the outside of the one towards the front is a little rusty. But aside from that my brakes feel solid. Just the occasional hesitation when accelerating.

The sensors could be purchased individually and i can try that route if your swap yields good results.

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Just a little update. The parts guys in Sacramento screwed me and didn’t deliver the part. It’s suppose to get here sometime next week. So I went for the fingers crossed quick fix. Today I took both sensors out of the bottom of the master cylinder, cleaned them up nicely with some mass airflow sensor and reinstalled. Initially I lost brake pressure upon reinstall and again VSC and TRAC and BRAKE lights illuminated on dash. After pumping the brakes and driving for about 10 miles I stopped for gas and the dash lights reset and are off. Brakes feel great and the vsc trac system is working. It’s still a little sensitive so I’m going to install the new master with sensors once it comes in. Figured I’d update you all since I thought I would have this done by now.

More to come soon. If the Sacramento parts guys flake the “local” pick and pull has 3 sequoias I will check out and pull the master and sensors from.

Question, does anyone think a brake flush could help with the pressure sensor reading properly? It could in my opinion just not sure I want to put the effort into it without replacing the entire master but that’s me being lazy and not wanting to do it twice.
Any update on your issue? I am having a similar problem. In my case once in a while VSC TRAC, TRAC OFF, and brake light will show up on a dash all together. It goes away after car restart. I was able to hook up the techstream software and pull up the codes from ABS/VSC unit. I have C0210 (wheel speed sensor), C1223 (ABS module malfunction), and C1360 (VSC Master pressure sensor). I believe the last code is the culprit. Also sometimes during drive I can fell momentary loss of power (almost like a strong wind blow). I was wondering does anybody know if there is way to see brake pressure sensors parameters in techstream software, to determine which sensor is bad? I will dig a little bit more when I have some extra time but I am open for input. Thanks
 

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