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Discussion Starter #1
Is there anything I should know about?

My 04 has no transmission issues whatsoever and I have 100,000 miles on it.

I had towed my 6,000 lb boat from Florida up to MA, 1,600 miles back when I had about 55,000 on the truck in 2007, then have pulled it about 2,000 miles since and still no issue with the transmission or the fluid, but I think it is time for the fluid change to keep things nice in there.

I'm bringing my truck in at 2pm-ish to have the fluid changed, anything I should be concerned with ? Maybe have the filter changed as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I got my transmission fluid totally flushed and replaced at my more-trusted dealership. $159 and done.

My fluid was not bad looking at all but now it looks perfect as I do have the dipstick to check, thankfully.

My shifting was good before and now feels even better in that I can't feel the shifts at all.

Good to know that despite all the towing and miles that my fluid and transmission is in good health with 100,000 miles.

I also replaced my air filter as it was nasty, I suspect over the summer, some critters built a nest in the airbox but I was glad to know that I was still getting 16.8 mpg over my last 400 mile roundrip to the mountains last weekend.
 

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Good for you. Too often this essential maintenance item is overlooked.

The addition of a Magnefine inline filter will help to keep your fluid clean. Check my gallery for install image. See link for further details. Magnefine install question
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The only thing that I really need to change, that has not been changed maintenance-wise is my power steering fluid.

I plan on keeping this truck for a while. I'll have to look into the Magnefine.
 

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The only thing that I really need to change, that has not been changed maintenance-wise is my power steering fluid.

I plan on keeping this truck for a while. I'll have to look into the Magnefine.

Here's an excellent DIY tip from DevinSixtySeven on replacing the power steering fluid. I've used this technique and it works as advertised. I replaced mine with synthetic ATF and added a Magnefine filter in the return line. *Just don't let the reservoir run dry!

A tip that may help in the future...

Set the e-brake & put the front on jackstands (tires in the air).

Draw out the fluid in the reservoir (turkey baster). Disconnect the return line, and run it to a drain pan (hose extension...just get anything you can fit over the line). Block the return line fitting on the reservoir...I use a stub of hose with a bolt crammed in the end...then make sure you've removed as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, and fill it almost to the top.

Now turn the wheels lock to lock, refill the reservoir as necessary before the fluid level hits bottom (or you'll likely draw in air...a helper here is handy!), and continue until you see fresh fluid pumping out the return line. Reconnect everything, make sure the fluid level is correct, and fire it up.

The fluid degrades as it heats up, and it does take in wear particles from the pump and rack...as it thins out, it'll get harder to steer. It's easy enough to do this service, you may as well do it when you change the differential fluid or during your yearly service if you drive in such a way as to warrant it...

-Sean
Good luck on keeping everything shipshape.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
As I recall, not long ago I went to suck the power steering fluid out with a turkey baster but there was something over the reservior like a plastic screen that prevented me from dipping the baster in.

Is it removeable?-whatever it is?
 
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