This is clearly a "racing" fluid as it does not comply with the U.S. NHTSA mandates for DOT 4 use, i.e. color, stability measurements, etc. even though it asserts "DOT 4 compatibility".
From MEvang's writeup in the sticky section of the Brake subforum:
"Racing fluids are really not covered under any HTSA standards though they can be DOT compatible as far as boiling points and rubber part compatibility. They can rate a dry boiling point range of 446° F to 620° F depending on the brand. Most are hydroscopic unless silicon based.
The problem with these fluids are they do not meet the same stability and corrosion resistance standard as other DOT rated fluids. This is fine for racing as the fluid is usually changed between races or very frequently. This leaves little time for these fluids to break down. These fluids should never be used in street vehicles that will not have frequent fluid changes."
In other words, stick with a quality DOT 3 brake fluid. It will do the job just fine.
NOTE::: Don't ever use a silicon brake fluid in an ABS brake system! The action of the valves and pumps will turn the fluid to foam. Presto... no pedal.
Then, if you absolutely have to have new fluid in every inch of every line (which I don't think is necessary, by the way...), suck out the fluid in the reservoir, replace with new, and just do a bunch of long bleeds at each wheel. Always make sure you don't ever let the reservoir run dry.
I highly suggest the Russell Speed Bleeders as well. Makes it a one-person job. Got mine at Summit Racing.
ATE brake fluid comes in Blue and Gold colors. The blue is called ATE Blue and the gold colored is called ATE Type 200. They are both the same. Racers switch between the two so its easier to tell which you have completely flushed the previous color. No harm in using them in street vehicles, I have for a long time though I haven't done this in my Tundra.