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Discussion Starter #1
last week we spent some time in baja. the ambient temps were 75-90. my scanguage reported ATF temps up to 190 while in 4wd HI at 10 mph over loose cobblestones and silt beds for approximately 1/4 mile at a time, then i'd drop out of 4wd to save fuel. this was repeated every 5-10 minutes for 1.5 hours or so. most of the time i was going 10-35 mph over the trails in 2wd and the temp would average around 155-165.

my water temp would vary between 195-204 and the two gauges would not necessarily spike under the same conditions/time frame.

i saw somewhere that 200? degree ATF temps will kill your tranny. should i be worried?

today i drained and replaced with 4 quarts Castrol high mileage ATF and it filled EXACTLY to the HOT line (i drained it hot and then took it for a whirl before a final check). i'll repeat this 3 more times over the next month or two as i only drive this truck about 40 miles a week when not south of the border.....
 

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Maybe this will help:

How often should the automatic transmission fluid... — Yahoo! Autos

I have settled on a 30K mile OCI with a full flush of Schaeffers #204 SAT now. Also, I add 6ozs of Auto-Rx before I do the flush (1K miles or more) in order to clean all the deposits that may have formed during the interval and to clean and condition all the seals. The tranny has been working great now on my 2000 Tundra 4X4 TRD with 172K miles. I thought this tranny was going to die when it developed hard/violent 2-3 shifts around 120K too!

Good luck with your great truck.
 

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hi great infomation from you, & your link. it makes since.
points sent!
i wonder why we have many gauges but never did i see a tranny temp gauge.
which should be, in my option a standard.

i also wonder if there is any product that re-duces the tranny temp, without hirting the tranny in any way. or if they do make it,is it just snake oil, or sort's.

do we have a idiot light, that we can't see, but will come on, in your dash that will tell us, the tranny temp is high?

since i live in south florida, and many of us do live where there is extreme high heat,
i wonder if ,even if we don't carry heavy load's, or do any towing, of extreme off roading,
is there a way to hook up a very good accurate tranny gauge.
i know the 05/06 doesn't have a dip stick. so there is no way of looking at the tranny fluid, or smelling it. i was told our tranny's go 100,000miles before we need to change it.
but according to the article written, thats not true.

i think when i install my nitrous, i'm going to have them install a tranny temp. gauge,
it just makes since to have 1, no matter what.

does anyone know of a company that makes pillar post gauge set up's, that is made for our tundra's? or do we have to add it somewhere.

we can't live always affraid of the what if's. but it's better to be on the safe side.
i as well as many of us, are not the people that don't go over 2000rpms.
those people god knows how they do it, i tried, i just can't do it long term.
i don't think the 2000rpm guys/girls wouldn't have to worry.
but i also heard it's good to mash the gas pedal once in a while to do a clean out, of sorts.
just my .02cents,
gorilla




Maybe this will help:

How often should the automatic transmission fluid... — Yahoo! Autos

I have settled on a 30K mile OCI with a full flush of Schaeffers #204 SAT now. Also, I add 6ozs of Auto-Rx before I do the flush (1K miles or more) in order to clean all the deposits that may have formed during the interval and to clean and condition all the seals. The tranny has been working great now on my 2000 Tundra 4X4 TRD with 172K miles. I thought this tranny was going to die when it developed hard/violent 2-3 shifts around 120K too!

Good luck with your great truck.
 

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My truck has an idot light, but I don't know what temp it comes on (250F maybe?). I don't have an aftermarket tranny cooler or Magnefine filter installed, but my light has never come on (except when you turn the key to start the engine). It is stock and only gets cooled by the engine coolant which tends to hold a pretty steady temp even in hot conditions. I do have 4WD, but use it mostly during hunting season when it's cooler out. So the 30K mile OCI is where I draw the line in the sand, and it's working now.

There are ATF's (mostly synthetics) that advertise lower running temps than OTC conventional brands. But it's difficult to verify this without a tranny temp gauge. They make them, I just haven't installed them. There is a product called Lubegard that is pretty well accepted and recommended as a protectant:

LUBEGARD Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant

I haven't used it, so I'll defer to others that have. I'm going with the "keep it clean with Auto-Rx and use a quality synthetic DEX III ATF" for now.

Let us know what you come up with for a temp gauge. I might be interested in getting one someday too.
 

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It was 91F here yesterday and my trans temp stayed around 155F on flat ground, up to 180F with moderate rolling hills, and hit around 205F on a very very long, steep hill climb - this is all while in 2WD on the road. My coolant temp stayed at 190F while cruising about 55 MPH with the A/C off (191F with it on), would climb to 193F if sitting at a stop light, then immediately drop back to 190F once rolling, and on the long, steep grade I got it to hit 195F.

I've seen my trans temp hit 205F a few times on long mountain grades in the middle of summer. My trans temp sensor is mounted in the line that leaves the trans and enters the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i tried searching and came up with my own thread.

who has installed an aftermarket ATF cooler and Magnafine filter? is there a DIY or any info to simplify the process for me? i drain/fill 4 qts once a year when i change the motor oil and run castrol synthetic ATF.

also, why does my water temp get up to 204-206? i had the waterpump changed when the timing belt was done 3 years ago. is it time for a coolant flush? i've only put 17k on it in 3 years-now at 114k. i hate seeing guys say they run at low 190. mine warms up and sits at 198 and sometimes gets to 204-206 via scangauge.
 

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...who has installed an aftermarket ATF cooler and Magnafine filter? is there a DIY or any info to simplify the process for me? i drain/fill 4 qts once a year when i change the motor oil and run castrol synthetic ATF.
Baja, I have the OEM tranny cooler but have been bouncing around the plan to replace it with a larger, stacked-plate design cooler, probably from Derale. I'm not hard on a transmission (towing, low speed-low gear driving, hill climbs, etc), but any way that you can lower ATF temp is a good thing, no?

I DO have the Magnefine filter installed. I consider it cheap insurance. You can fiind the order page here. You want the 3/8" model without the 'smart connects'.

I have found the most convenient install location to be the return line coming from the ATF cooler (top nipple, left side of ATF cooler housing). Simply cut out section of the existing hose equivalent to the length of the filter body, attach the ends of the ATF line and secure with hose clamps. Make sure that you install with the flow going down. The filter unit has an arrow showing the proper direction of flow.

Here's a closeup pic of my install location.

also, why does my water temp get up to 204-206? i had the waterpump changed when the timing belt was done 3 years ago. is it time for a coolant flush? i've only put 17k on it in 3 years-now at 114k. i hate seeing guys say they run at low 190. mine warms up and sits at 198 and sometimes gets to 204-206 via scangauge.
I would be hesitant to automatically assume the numbers are entirely accurate. To consistently run average operating temps that high during normal operation, something is wrong. I know that low-speed, low-gear driving generates a lot of internal heat mass (like on your Baja trails), but normal everyday highway/city driving should bring those temps back down to a normal op range. Where does your dash water temp gauge register during these incidents?

For peace of mind, you might try having a competent shop do a complete coolant system flush (radiator AND block... thoroughly, with an anti-scaling cleaning agent) and then refill with Toyota Red.
 

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The highest temp I've seen on my '00 with the cooler (assuming the SG is correct) was around 250 F. This was using four wheel drive in a field with two feet of snow on it. So far my transmission hasn't exploded, but I would like to get an electric fan for the cooler and switch to synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Where does your dash water temp gauge register during these incidents?
right where you'd want it.....it never moves from just above 1/2......

but scanguage tells me 198-206 - seems a little high vs. 190 as some claim. that's 20%!!!!! and knowing where i'm hanging out, if there is anything i can do to minimize heat, in the 100 degree days, i'd love to know!

BTW, my wrench monkey is an old friend who owns his shop. should i make him put in a different t-stat?
 

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right where you'd want it.....it never moves from just above 1/2......

but scanguage tells me 198-206 - seems a little high vs. 190 as some claim. that's 20%!!!!!
That's what makes me think the SG numbers might be suspect... dunno...

and knowing where i'm hanging out, if there is anything i can do to minimize heat, in the 100 degree days, i'd love to know!
As was posted, you might try the LubeGard Red ATF additive. There's also coolant additives (LubeGard's is called 'Kool-It' and Royal Purple has one called 'Purple ICE') that are supposed to help cool the fluid by counteracting surface tension. Might be worth a try.

BTW, my wrench monkey is an old friend who owns his shop. should i make him put in a different t-stat?
I would stick with the OEM thermostat. If you're getting overheating issues in the system, something is wrong and should be rectified.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks Remmy.

looking at the Derale site you provided i have a question. does the Derale unit fit into the same space? i have a horn right there that would need to be moved/removed. does everything just bolt up?
 

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Now that I installed a temperature sending unit in the transmission pan I don't see those crazy temperature variations and spikes like I used to. My pan temp runs around 125F-150F consistently now.
 

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thanks Remmy.

looking at the Derale site you provided i have a question. does the Derale unit fit into the same space? i have a horn right there that would need to be moved/removed. does everything just bolt up?
The biggest fit limitation is the A/C refrigerant dryer and its mount. Here's a pic of mine:



The OEM cooler dimensions are as follows:

Length: 10"
Width: 6.25"
Depth: 1.25"
Bolt Distance: 6.25"

What this tells me is that an aftermarket cooler 10-11" long, 7-7.25" wide (to allow room for the input/output hose nipples) and almost any depth will fit. Therefore, the Derale model #13502 should fit comfortably in there. (You will have to rotate the horn a little to allow for the output nipple/hose as they are at each end rather than together like the OEM cooler).
 

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I've always had an Autometer gauge installed for my trans temp, I just moved the sensor from the return line between the cooler and trans to the actual pan. When the temp sensor was in the return line, it would read high anytime I was running hard, due to TC heat build up. Having the temp sensor in the return line would just give big swings in temp and not really give me an overall idea of how the transmission was really doing.


I have also added dual coolers, aux. fan, and removed the factory in-radiator cooler -

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/192019-transmission-cooler-upgrades/
 

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Discussion Starter #18
okay, ordered up the Magnafine and Derale. two more questions. how much fluid should i expect to lose/refill when installing both? and will i need to increase my capacities with a bigger cooler and a new filter?
 

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okay, ordered up the Magnafine and Derale. how much fluid should i expect to lose/refill when installing both?
Good question. I would imagine that you should expect some loss as you are completely rerouting the hoses.

I'm also not sure if vehicles that didn't come with the "tow package" will have the hardlines required to easily route the ATF to the front cooler location. Let us know how the install goes.

I'd have a couple quarts of ATF on hand to replenish.

...will i need to increase my capacities with a bigger cooler and a new filter?
Probably a little. I noticed, when installing the Magnefine filter at the cooler, that very little ATF came out from the cooler return line. I surmise that the cooler itself probably empties its volume to the pan after engine shutoff.
 

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Probably lose less than a quart worst case, so having two quarts should cover you.
 
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