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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!

this truck came to me at 194,145 in amazing shape. Timing belt was done. Expensive tires. Mobile 1 receipts... LOVE IT.

But the atf. Not sure if it's been done. I'm older school so I'm inclined to drain/fill every 500 miles for the next couple thousand.

my question: is it more harm than good at this point? And/or is an on/off/on/off/on/off etc. cooler line flush "better"

I appreciate this site. Thank you all

155712
 

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Hi!

this truck came to me at 194,145 in amazing shape.

View attachment 155712
My 2007 had 270,000 and zero service history when I bought it, I had a drain & fill done within the 1st month of ownership, and then again at about 285,000. Dropping the pan, cleaning, and maybe replacing the filter is another option, but I would stay away from the flushing method.

My '07 has a little over 300,000 today, I drive it in S-4 manually shifting into OD is needed, but I always start out in S-4 or lower. I do this because I was still getting the occasional torque converter shudder when in D because the computer was forcing the transmission to shift into OD as soon as possible. Driving in S-4 prevents the computer from shifting into OD automatically, driving in S-4 and upshifting manually is also more fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks both of you !

Flush is the wrong work. "Fully replace" is more like it. But I'm an old school T-IV guy. Drain and fill every 20,000 for a couple hundred thousand easy miles. This sun is different :-/ I mean running it til clean fluid coming out then shut off and repeat. Bad?

I am Loving this truck. Put it like this: if I spent $50,000 on one with 000,003 miles and it drove exactly like this, I'd be satisfied. Great truck! Hope to go a good deal past 300,000

I'll check out that thread thanks
 

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After dropping the pan and replacing filter (184,000, new to me) I topped off fluid and still had a TC shudder issue. I added a vile of Shudder Fixx and no more issues 10K miles later. I also purchased the TC Solenoid which is in my parts box in case it flares up again. I have a few of those "hope I never need them" parts that I have collected over the years...
Chap

Amazon.com : instant shudder fixx
 

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I didn't have time to chase down my original TC Shudder post. My issue brought the truck to a halt. Researched this site and ended up draining fluid (just from drain plug) refilled adding 4 ounces of "Auto-RX" (link below) and a tube of the "Shudder Fixx". Drove it 1000 miles. drained (just from drain plug) and topped off with ATF and ShudderFixx" .
I am usually not much for additives or snake oil fixes but it was well recommended here and worth a shot. I don't know what it did to remedy the issue but it has worked for a long time. Chap

Amazon.com: Auto-RX Plus is an All-Natural Metal Cleaner for Transmissions, Engines, Differentials and Power Steering. Designed to Thoroughly Clean The Internal Components. (AutoRx Amazon) : Automotive
 

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The TSB on Torque converter shudder: TC018T-07 Revised
 

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2001 Toyota tundra access cab 4.7
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Hi!

this truck came to me at 194,145 in amazing shape. Timing belt was done. Expensive tires. Mobile 1 receipts... LOVE IT.

But the atf. Not sure if it's been done. I'm older school so I'm inclined to drain/fill every 500 miles for the next couple thousand.

my question: is it more harm than good at this point? And/or is an on/off/on/off/on/off etc. cooler line flush "better"

I appreciate this site. Thank you all

View attachment 155712
Do not do a flush, do a drain and fill and 6 months later or 5k do another drain and fill and repeat step two, but you may do more harm than good doing an ATF flush
 

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Hi!

this truck came to me at 194,145 in amazing shape. Timing belt was done. Expensive tires. Mobile 1 receipts... LOVE IT.

But the atf. Not sure if it's been done. I'm older school so I'm inclined to drain/fill every 500 miles for the next couple thousand.

my question: is it more harm than good at this point? And/or is an on/off/on/off/on/off etc. cooler line flush "better"

I appreciate this site. Thank you all

View attachment 155712
Since you don’t know when trans was last serviced I would recommend to do a trans flush.then follow recommendation of th factory
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So it's having no issues - I was just trying to do all I can to keep it in good shape. Shudder luckily!
Ill see if I can find out from Toyota.
Also, I wouldn't do a flush as in with a machine, but I'm not opposed to a cooler line atf replacement just wondering if I'm opening Pandora's box
 

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Pandora never knew before she opened the box, but once she did, it was too late :) A more recent prophet (my grandpa) said if it isn't broken why go looking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Both true but still. Trying to be a good steward so to speak. Want to give it everything it needs to last
 

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Pandora never knew before she opened the box, but once she did, it was too late :) A more recent prophet (my grandpa) said if it isn't broken why go looking?
So does that mean never change the motor oil till the engine seizes? Or same with the tires, how about leave these till they explode?
Fluids are a wearable part just like many other things, we change them before they fail so that they dont leave us stuck on the side of the road somewhere with a dead vehicle thats now F'd.
 
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After dropping the pan and replacing filter (184,000, new to me) I topped off fluid and still had a TC shudder issue. I added a vile of Shudder Fixx and no more issues 10K miles later. I also purchased the TC Solenoid which is in my parts box in case it flares up again. I have a few of those "hope I never need them" parts that I have collected over the years...
Chap

Amazon.com : instant shudder fixx
So it's having no issues - I was just trying to do all I can to keep it in good shape. Shudder luckily!
Ill see if I can find out from Toyota.
Also, I wouldn't do a flush as in with a machine, but I'm not opposed to a cooler line atf replacement just wondering if I'm opening Pandora's box
If the ATF Fluid is dark brown or black I would not do a power flush with a machine at a service dealer nor would I do a flush through the transmission line either, pumping out 12 quarts of Old dirty fluid and putting in Brand New cherry red ATF Fluid is a Bad idea, you want to introduce the New fluid slowly over time, I just got my wife a 2007 Lexus RX350 and the ATF Fluid is dark brown, so 3 months ago I did a simple drain and fill of 4 and a1/2 quart's,which is half of the total volume, so I will do it again in 3 months and again in 6 months and by then I will have replaced around 90% with New fluid and it will be looking a nice clean Red color
 

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Choosing between a Transmission Flush or Fluid Change
Dear Car Talk

Dear Car Talk | Sep 21, 2017

Dear Car Talk:

I own a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. It needs fresh transmission fluid. What would your honest answer be about the benefits of "flushing" the transmission versus a transmission fluid "change"? Thanks! -- Francois



Well, I wouldn't flush the whole transmission yet, Francois. But you should flush the transmission fluid.

When you just remove the drain plug and rely on gravity to remove your transmission fluid, only a little more than half of it comes out. All of the dirty fluid that's sitting in the torque converter, and many of the passages, just stays there and contaminates the new fluid.

So a flush is a better alternative. We use a machine at the garage that connects to the transmission cooler lines. And, while the engine is running, it sends new fluid in and captures the old fluid coming out.

And because it pushes out the old fluid with the new fluid, you get a complete change of fluid. If your transmission holds, for example, 14 quarts of transmission fluid, 14 new quarts go in and 14 old, dirty quarts come out.

It costs about twice as much as just opening the drain plug, but it's at least twice as good. Plus, someone has to pay for that expensive machine we bought! But if you're going to go through the trouble of changing your transmission fluid, you might as well actually change all of it, right?

Unless your transmission has social anxiety, Francois. Then you might want to just change half of the fluid and give your transmission a chance to get to know the new fluid better first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'll see what's in there and report back. I've never done anything but drain fills so if it looks critical I guess I'll have to figure out the lines and how to do a replacement.

a power flush is not even considered, just choosing between drain/fill and line exchange. If I bought this new, I'd drainfill the pan volume every 30,000 but its 6.5 times that! Thanks
 

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If it were mine I would drain and fill the trans adding that small tube of Shudder Fixx, do an engine oil and filter change, do coolant flush and replace and drive it. Then you can start your own routine maintenance schedule. You can go crazy on replacing plugs, ign. coils, brakes, tires, etc. and when you get done something else will need changing or fixing. Don't worry there will always be something to keep you busy. Remember, "Enjoy the adventure." Chap
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks!

FYI there is no shudder - glad for that! And if there was, seems a torque converter is cheap, just the pain of putting it in.


So this is already a tough topic - let me make it worse haha. Is WS or Maxlife a better choice for this gearbox? I've always kept T-IV in my older yotas, and DW1 in our honda van, but in researching for vehicles in our inventory over the years, maxlife seems to have merit.
 

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Suggestion: RockAuto.com

AISIN (Toyota OEM) ATF0WS HERE: More Information for AISIN ATF0WS @ $6.62/qt + S/H & Tax minus:

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Excellent video on replacing 95% of the fluid in one shot:

Cheers.
 
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