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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The stock Geen Eye started going weak after 5+ years in the 2006 SR5 Dbl Cab w/ tow package.

Checked the charging system, all seems well enough so I'm taking the plunge and swapping in a Diehard Platinum P1 instead of the P5.

The stock cabling isn't long enough with the reversed terminals and the stock mounting bracket will need some adjustment.

My question, for those that have done this or even those that have done the dual battery upgrade, did you just extend the cables by bolting on some 1ft extensions, going with a standard battery terminal and bolting the pigtail to the stock wiring after removing those nifty Toyota battery terminal clamps. Or did you really get in there and retire completely back to the fuse box and replace the ground cable entirely.

Obviously I'm hoping that folks used something like the 4 gauge 15" Coleman cable from Sears.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
 

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I personally would go with 0/1 Gauge. For 80 bucks you can have all the wire + connected you need for an Alternator to Pos, Frame to Neg, Body to Neg, and Frame to Block.

I like to run the extra ground for Frame to Block, a lot of people don't do it.

I run winch on the hitch to pull people out, and I used to have a problem, but just that upgrade fixed all my issues. Do it!

-CJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Why would you choose a battery that clearly doesn't fit your vehicle application without all kinds of wiring modifications? You can fark this up royally unless you know exactly what you're doing.
Thanks for your concern but IMHO, it's not all that difficult.
Others here have done the same thing and I was just asking for their input prior to executing the task.

This effort is certainly less complicated than a remote dual battery setup and there are many writeups on that task.

Anyway, I am going w/ 1/0 wire and will ground to frame and block.
Cheers.
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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Thanks for your concern but IMHO, it's not all that difficult.
Others here have done the same thing and I was just asking for their input prior to executing the task.

This effort is certainly less complicated than a remote dual battery setup and there are many writeups on that task.

Anyway, I am going w/ 1/0 wire and will ground to frame and block.
Cheers.
I was simply curious why you would choose a battery that forced you to go through all that.

It's straightforward if you know what you're doing. We've also seen guys post up horror shows when trying to do a wiring job that was "not all that difficult" and ended up chasing problems for days. It's not the wiring that trips you up, it's the fusing and the relays that always seem to go sideways on ya.

I do hope all goes well. Good luck.
 

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I did fail to mention, I know my way around my trucks electrical system, so this was a breeze.

If you leave the stock charge cable on, it is going to be a beech to get the nut back on. You really need two hands up there, but you can't.

I left mine on, because I didn't want to have to run the extra few wires out off of the new charge cable.


Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Appreciate the responses.

I understand that the P5 is the battery spec'd for the Gen 1 Tundra.

Problem is, the P5 CCA and Reserve Time is close to the 24F group specs and I want something much closer to my Group 27F specs (heavy duty, towing, cold weather pkg option).

The P1 gets pretty close in matching the 27F CCA and is only a bit short on the reserve time. Downside is, the cabling changes and bracket mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I hear ya about "projects" and completely understand the devil is in the details.
Just spent last week helping the nephew learn that lesson with his Ridgeline stereo upgrade. He didn't realize the stock head unit had an extra amp to drive the subwoofer and come install time he had his slick new head unit but was short one amp. Just an example of research and experience yield dividends.

Truth be told, I sandbag a little when posting up here just to gather input and ideas. Always nice to learn about some product, method or documented install that covers some of the details.

Again, appreciate the feedback and good wishes. No worries, I'm handy enough in the garage and under the hood for most things. Not my first rodeo.
 

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Cables fit no problem, only modify mounting bracket. I chose this battery because it is much better.

Automotive battery Vehicle Technology Car Auto part
 

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Here is another angle..

Vehicle Car Auto part Engine Wire
 

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Cables fit no problem, only modify mounting bracket. I chose this battery because it is much better.

View attachment 43109
Glad you got it in without too much trouble. The Sears DieHard Platinum is a great battery (It's a rebadged Odyssey). I was going to put one in my truck, but I just couldn't see what the extra $110 or so was going to benefit me.

What are the specs for that battery? It's a group size 34, yes? CA? CCA? Reserve minutes?
 

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The P-1 Platinum Automotive Battery group number 34 from DieHard offers 135 minutes of reserve capacity and 880 cold cranking amps.

The P-5 Platinum Automotive Battery group number 35 from DieHard offers 100 minutes of reserve capacity and 740 cold cranking amps.

Probably a little late but this is why I went with P1, it was also recommended by some members on here. I know it might be overkill but that's how I roll! :first:
 

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Sorry double post!
 

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Have you guys seen the Kinetik Power Cell's?
Kinetik HC2400 (KHC2400) 12V High Current Car Audio Power Cell

This HC2400 puts out Higher voltage under load, and is 100% Sealed and maintenance free.
Cranking Amps: 2600
Amp Hours: 128

Dimensions: 6-3/4”D x 13”W x 8-1/2”H


I run a Kinetik 2400 and it's badass!
 

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Holy crap!!! :tu:
 

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Makes you want to return that P-1 and upgrade, doesn't it :)
 

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:embarrassed3d: Yes!!
 
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