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I bought a 2010 Tundra DC 4x4 TRD a few months ago. I loved it at first until our first highway trip. I then understood all the bed bounce talk. My other half says no more trip in the tundra because it make our daughter vomit. The dealership was no help so Im trying a few things before I take my loses and sell it to buy a Silverado or F150 now that the 6.2 is becoming available. I have already drove both of these down the same highway without the bouncing.

I of course tried the weight and 400lbs does make the truck drive so much better but had to remove it to go thru the car wash, load up my atv etc. I installed some monroe reflex shocks but they didnt make much difference over the bilsteins.

I am now going to try what ART64 did and place a piece of plate steel across the frame rails over the rear axle to tie each side together and add a little weight where I wont have to keep removing it. He used a 3/8 by 6 x 42 but Im going to try 3/8 x 9 x 42 to take advantage of all three bolt holes on each side. I should get the metal next week and will take pictures and give any results.
 

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Had the same issue with my 2007. Drove for 6 month with the weight in the bed. Got tired of sluggish acceleration and removed it. I guess that made the trick, the rear got softer. Some bounce is still present, but probably only 20% of what it was before. At the beginning I almost sold it too, was scary to see kids bubble headed. Now I do not have any of those issues. Also got the TRD sway bar, personally it felt like it quieted down the bounce quicker.
Let us now the results of your modifications. And what is your mileage so far?
 

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I have a SnugTop Super Sport on order - that will add 190 lbs to the bed once installed (in about 1.5 weeks). I'll post a before / after evaluation regarding bed bounce as soon as I get back from the install - I have to drive some very bumpy freeway to and fro to get to the camper shop...

Very interested to hear how the metal plate works out for you too - good luck.

My wife is not a fan of the new truck due to bed / cab bounce either - which is a big bummer.
 

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I bought a 2010 Tundra DC 4x4 TRD a few months ago. I loved it at first until our first highway trip. I then understood all the bed bounce talk. My other half says no more trip in the tundra because it make our daughter vomit. The dealership was no help so Im trying a few things before I take my loses and sell it to buy a Silverado or F150 now that the 6.2 is becoming available. I have already drove both of these down the same highway without the bouncing.

I of course tried the weight and 400lbs does make the truck drive so much better but had to remove it to go thru the car wash, load up my atv etc. I installed some monroe reflex shocks but they didnt make much difference over the bilsteins.

I am now going to try what ART64 did and place a piece of plate steel across the frame rails over the rear axle to tie each side together and add a little weight where I wont have to keep removing it. He used a 3/8 by 6 x 42 but Im going to try 3/8 x 9 x 42 to take advantage of all three bolt holes on each side. I should get the metal next week and will take pictures and give any results.
I still have that plate installed on my RCSB. The biggest thing it did was it reduced the "aftershock" a whole lot. Before the mod, when I go thru a bump or pothole the whole truck would shake even after the truck had already hit the bump. Now, that effect is gone.
I also have to add that my leaf springs have been replaced with Alcans soft springs and I also have Rancho 9000xl adjustable shocks and Firestone Airbags for heavy loads. Lately, I even made a mod to the Alcan Springs by removing a couple of leaves on each side of the spring pack. And what this did was put more weight on the air bags for the same ride height. Rides so much better. Hopefully you get good results on that mod.
If you have questions you can pm me or post it here.

The next crossmember forward of the axle flexes a lot too. I've put a plate on top of that crossmember and it really made the ride too stiff and unbearable. Right now I have a 2 inch ratcheting strap tied around the frame rails on that area. Cranked it up tight and effect is more solid ride. I had to tie up the strap to the other parts of the truck so it won't fall and wrap around the drive shaft in case it breaks.
 

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Dang, Art - you have done some pretty extensive work there to try to remedy the bed bounce. Where would you say you are at this point, 50% "cured" or 90% or ?

Maybe we should get a group buy going to get a half-dozen neck braces per truck - would be a lot simpler...
 

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always surprises me the number of people who bought w/o a test drive....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I still have that plate installed on my RCSB. The biggest thing it did was it reduced the "aftershock" a whole lot. Before the mod, when I go thru a bump or pothole the whole truck would shake even after the truck had already hit the bump. Now, that effect is gone.
I also have to add that my leaf springs have been replaced with Alcans soft springs and I also have Rancho 9000xl adjustable shocks and Firestone Airbags for heavy loads. Lately, I even made a mod to the Alcan Springs by removing a couple of leaves on each side of the spring pack. And what this did was put more weight on the air bags for the same ride height. Rides so much better. Hopefully you get good results on that mod.
If you have questions you can pm me or post it here.

The next crossmember forward of the axle flexes a lot too. I've put a plate on top of that crossmember and it really made the ride too stiff and unbearable. Right now I have a 2 inch ratcheting strap tied around the frame rails on that area. Cranked it up tight and effect is more solid ride. I had to tie up the strap to the other parts of the truck so it won't fall and wrap around the drive shaft in case it breaks.
Art64,

The aftershock I think drives me even more nuts because I feel it on every bump leaving my neighborhood so it the metal plate helps with only that I will be a little happier. Im guessing the frame must be spreading and these plates and strap are minimizing that.

Im almost to the point of taking the bed off and just starting to box everything but Im not sure what the results of that might be. as I would probably just move the stress somewhere else.

Probably after all this Toyota will release some fix. I would think they could form up some bolt on parts that could quickly be installed to prevent all of this. A few new cross members and boxing in the otherside of where the upkick of the frame is would probably fix it all.
 

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i noticed on my 07 that the springs got smoother after 14Kmiles ... i remember it being really bad in the begining my new crewmax had 24K on it when i got it and the bed bounce isnt that bad on it just give it time .. i remember when the 07's just came out guys were getting those waterbladders to put in their beds to weigh them down .. i almost bought one but decided not to when the ride got smoother over time
 

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always surprises me the number of people who bought w/o a test drive....
The 5 freeway southbound around Cardiff / Del Mar in North San Diego county will make your fillings fall out, Barney. The 30 mile stretch north of there is fine, however.

So yeah, if folks are thinking about buying a new Tundra in San Diego county, give that particular stretch of freeway a drive before you buy.
 

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always surprises me the number of people who bought w/o a test drive....
(raises hand) :D I test drove the tundra for like 15mins accelerated it to 80 mph and for some odd reason I didnt get the bed bounce, but that was 15mins of driving on a major freeway on I10 in fact. Im just gonna assume I have the bed bounce so bad that its gonna rattle my teeth my out while I drive....im gonna expect the worst and hope its not as bad as some folks have talked about it here.
 

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Dang, Art - you have done some pretty extensive work there to try to remedy the bed bounce. Where would you say you are at this point, 50% "cured" or 90% or ?

Maybe we should get a group buy going to get a half-dozen neck braces per truck - would be a lot simpler...
Compared to the stock suspension over 95% improved now. I can drive this truck on concrete roads all day and sip hot coffee without burning myself.
 

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Art64,

The aftershock I think drives me even more nuts because I feel it on every bump leaving my neighborhood so it the metal plate helps with only that I will be a little happier. Im guessing the frame must be spreading and these plates and strap are minimizing that.

Im almost to the point of taking the bed off and just starting to box everything but Im not sure what the results of that might be. as I would probably just move the stress somewhere else.

Probably after all this Toyota will release some fix. I would think they could form up some bolt on parts that could quickly be installed to prevent all of this. A few new cross members and boxing in the otherside of where the upkick of the frame is would probably fix it all.
I won't recommend boxing the frame unless you really know what you're doing and you are prepared to undo it or make major changes to the rear suspension. That mod can make the ride overly stiff and it will be worst than before.

Like I said on my first post, I installed a flat steel on the forward crossmember just next to the axle. It has 2 bolts on each side. Once the plate was installed I took the truck for a test drive and the ride was horribly harsh. Almost like driving a forklift. You get whipped around in the cab like a rag doll. That's because the whole frame is not flexing anymore. You can compare that to a skateboard-stiff chassis and no suspension. But, the bed jiggle was gone. I removed that plate. The only plate I have now is the middle plate located on the frame rails right above the rear axle. There's a big elongated hole, one on each side of the frame rail.

As for the fix. Who knows. There's a member here that had a terrible bed bounce on his DC. He got tired of it so he traded it in for a Sierra. About a year later the Sierra started acting up, so he traded the Sierra for a 2010 Tundra DC. This new truck rides differently than his previous one. Still have a bit of aftershock but not as bad and not so noticeable to the passengers. So, not all Tundras are the same. Some have bounce, some don't; some have good gas mileage, some have horrible gas mileage and so on and so forth.
 

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I discovered something by accident may or may not help others. It certainly helped me in a big way.

First of all my only complaint is that BooiiNngg effect after you hit a good patch in the road, RR tracks, concrete to asphalt transition, etc. I do get a little bed bounce on a particular concrete bridge too.

So go and drop your tail gate down. Now sharply press down real fast on either the far left or right side of it and notice how it shimmy and shakes like a diving board.

Lower your spare tire just about an inch. Not so far down that it's dangling like a tennis ball on a string. Just enough to where you can kneel down and move it a good bit. You might have to experiment. With each adjustment check the reaction you got from pressing down sharply on your tailgate. You'll start to see that the reaction is absorbed by the counter movement of the spare.

Ya see the spare has a little spring loaded perch it's sitting in on the cable thats hoisting it up., so if you let it down just about an inch or so it will wiggle on that spring perch just enough to cancel out alot of the jiggles.

Give it a try. I have been taking speed bumps a little faster just to test how well this little trick is working and amazed at every bump that used to cause the aftershock no longer does.

Hope it helps with the CA highways too.
 

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I did test drive, unfortunately the roads that cause this are 20 miles away from my house. I drove every other type of road.
When I test drove my RCSB, it was great. No bouncing, no bed jiggle, no slamming noises made by the tailgate cause the bed is moving too much. After a few months, it got worst and the bed jiggle was very visible or obvious if you happen to drive behind my truck.

But when I bought the truck I was ready to mod the rear suspension anyways. I had an 06 RCLB before. Planning to keep this truck for a long time, so spending the money for a good ride is worth it for me.
 

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I'm thrown off by all of these claims about bed bouce,shake, rattle & roll.... I have a 2007 dc ,bought it with 20k miles & now it has 40k, I've never experianced ANY of the things yall are talking about, I've been on some crappy *** roads to, pretty much any kind of condition you can think of & still,nothing like what yall are talking about..
 

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I'm thrown off by all of these claims about bed bouce,shake, rattle & roll.... I have a 2007 dc ,bought it with 20k miles & now it has 40k, I've never experianced ANY of the things yall are talking about, I've been on some crappy *** roads to, pretty much any kind of condition you can think of & still,nothing like what yall are talking about..
Just because you haven't experienced it, does not mean that it doesn't exist. I really hope you are not going to take your one personal experience and discount hundreds of others on this site? You have to be on the right road with the right conditions. I was stationed up in Washington State, and HAD the bounce on certain sections of I-5. Now I am stationed in Mississippi, and no bounce. I regularly drive between TX, LA, MS, AL, and FL, and no bounce on I-20, I-10, or 45 or the DFW metroplex. It requires specific road construction, not really found around your parts.
 

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Has anyone had problems with the Rock Warrior? I haven't had any issue with mine, 2010 CMRW, and I had no idea about the bounce issue until I joined this forum.
 
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