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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2007 5.7L DC with the factory tow package.

When towing my 7000# travel trailer, I get a lot of porpoising when going over bridge transitions and rough roads. This makes for a very rough ride for both my trailer and for the people in the truck. I have been thinking of putting heavy duty shocks on the rear. Has anyone else done that? Did it help? What is the best solution for this problem? If heavy duty shocks will help, what brand is suggested? Toyota dealers are no help on this problem.
 

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Airbags /thread
 

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Do you use a WDH and are bars heavy enough? Is your trailer low in the nose or high in nose? You need to be level for towing. Air bags will help but you should find problem and fix frist, a tt should not need air bags. Do you still have factory P line tires?
 

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As CWIT mentioned. You shouldn't need and airbag (it's the last resort). You should be using a good quality WDH i.e. Equalizer and ensure it's setup correctly e.g. correct ball height and angle, calibrated tension bars, GVWR fully loaded like you're ready to travel etc.
Finally, if you search this forum, there are plenty of discussions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have the Equalizer hitch with 1000# bars adjusted by a professional at a RV shop. I have very sway problem even with trucks passing me at highway speeds.
 

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What you describe sounds like the tongue of the trailer is too high/too light. shift the weight evenly and make sure TT is level when loaded/hitched. Airbags will help keep truck from sagging and give a firmer ride.
 

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Your 1000# bars are a little heavy for the 7000# TT (TW aprx. 700#???). This will encourage porpoising. If you used bars rated closer to the TW, you will get a better ride.
 

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I have the Equalizer hitch with 1000# bars adjusted by a professional at a RV shop. I have very sway problem even with trucks passing me at highway speeds.
Professional- RV Shop???:eek: Most of those guys are not going to take the time to dial it in right.

You need to park your rig on level ground and go through the set up procedures yourself.

Equalizer has an online video showing you how to properly set up the hitch? Do it right and it will ride nicely. I pull a similar size trailer with no problem.

What are your hitched and unhitched fenderwell measurements front and rear on your truck?
 

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DCRC beat me to it. RV shops are by far hardly professional. All they care is to install in the shortest amount of time and collect $'s. You need to park your trailer and set it up correctly. I had to do the very same thing. The "Professional RV shop" didn't even bother tightening the "L" brackets, the angle set bolt and even the hitch ball. I should have done the work myself to begin with.
BTW, I have the 10,000# hitch/1,000 Tongue wt setup for my 5000# trailer and had no issues towing previously with my '10 Tacoma and now '10 Tundra.
 

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X2 above. A quick check, if the trailer is nose low, is to raise the carrier brackets up one notch, then take a drive. If it still bounces, try one more notch. If that don't do it, drop the brackets back to where they were and adjust the hitch ball/head up. It's not really that hard, just have a 2 foot plus breaker bar.

For each washer you remove, it works out to about one notch on the brackets. And you can flip the stinger (what mounts the head to the truck).

And with the Equalizer, you can go over on weight ratio. I.E. My hitch is rated at 1200/12,000 and the trailer is about 800lbs max. Works great. With other hitches, you have to closely match the bars to the actual weight.

JR

 

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X3 to the above. Spend some time adjusting the WD hitch.
A sway bar will help, too, if you don't already have it.
I'm a fan of Rancho RS9000 shocks which are adjustable from soft to firm. Crank 'em to firm when the truck is loaded.
 

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Hi
Just my experience, for what it is worth. The equal-I-Zer is an excellent system. But I added the firestone ride-rite air bags too.
It acts as a cushion on severe highway speeds whoops. It is an easy NO DRILL application for the Tundra. Rides much smoother, I can adjust the hitch height a few inches with air pressure. When my Trailer tongue weight is 1,100 pounds (Before the bars are put on), I use bout 50 PSI in the bags. When the tongue weight is 600 lbs, I drop the air bags to 30 PSI, and the ride is pretty cushy. On a bumper-pull trailer, I think it helps the ride immensely. Mite not need it on a 5th wheel.

Be careful how you cut the air tube in the book (SHARP knife and square cut) and it will hold full pressure for weeks.
Peacemakerpete
2008 Tundra Doublecab 4X4 with 23KRS outback toyhauler trailer
 

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You have to be careful mixing air bags and WD hitches. The airbag can unload the WD hitch, preventing it from distributing weight. Our camper is 7k lbs loaded, and there is over 1k lbs on the hitch before connecting (maybe over 1100 lbs). The WD hitch (1200 lb bars) transfers up to ~25% of the weight to the trailer axles, and transfers a similar amount to the front of the truck. Doing so has a direct impact on available truck payload. If you load that weight to the air bags instead, it doesn't get transferred, but goes straight to the rear truck axle. With an integrated sway control type hitch, it's also very important not to remove tension from the bars... as they provide sway control too via weight/friction. Air bags are just another spring, so they certainly can be used effectively... but it's easy do more harm than good when mixing with WD spring bars.
 

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X2 above. A quick check, if the trailer is nose low, is to raise the carrier brackets up one notch, then take a drive. If it still bounces, try one more notch. If that don't do it, drop the brackets back to where they were and adjust the hitch ball/head up. It's not really that hard, just have a 2 foot plus breaker bar.

For each washer you remove, it works out to about one notch on the brackets. And you can flip the stinger (what mounts the head to the truck).

And with the Equalizer, you can go over on weight ratio. I.E. My hitch is rated at 1200/12,000 and the trailer is about 800lbs max. Works great. With other hitches, you have to closely match the bars to the actual weight.

JR

Man you need a power tongue jack ! Make thinks a lot easier.:laughing3d:
 

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Hi
Just my experience, for what it is worth. The equal-I-Zer is an excellent system. But I added the firestone ride-rite air bags too.
It acts as a cushion on severe highway speeds whoops. It is an easy NO DRILL application for the Tundra. Rides much smoother, I can adjust the hitch height a few inches with air pressure. When my Trailer tongue weight is 1,100 pounds (Before the bars are put on), I use bout 50 PSI in the bags. When the tongue weight is 600 lbs, I drop the air bags to 30 PSI, and the ride is pretty cushy. On a bumper-pull trailer, I think it helps the ride immensely. Mite not need it on a 5th wheel.

Be careful how you cut the air tube in the book (SHARP knife and square cut) and it will hold full pressure for weeks.
Peacemakerpete
2008 Tundra Doublecab 4X4 with 23KRS outback toyhauler trailer
X2 on the cutting the air lines. There is a little cheap cutter available that works like a champ.

AirRideFittings.com, Your Source for Quality Air Suspension Fittings
main_page=product_info&products_id=68&zenid=3f0b64b7916432b82113db4e40792ec0
( just for reference-know nothing about this business)
 

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Lots of good info.

This past weekend I towed a GVW 7000# rental TT to camp and experienced nasty sway on one 4-lane country highway. I was doing 55-60 on a 65mph road before this happened. Thankfully, I have prodigy P3 and applied some brake to bring the setup safety to the shoulder. I can see the vehicles behind me parted to avoid me.

The road is bouncy for sure. After that, I went 45mph for the next 20 miles before I hit interstate hwy and then I was going 60-65 with no issue. On the return trip, I kept until 60 and selected mostly interstate hwy with no further issue.

I cannot figure out why the TT will cause this sway problem for the Tundra. This rental TT has a EAZ-LIFT wdh. I checked the setup, the truck and TT looks level.

You all make me think looking level is not enough.
 

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Sway will typically happen with crosswinds, big rigs and general wind resistance. If you the weight distribution is not setup correctly, you will definitely experience these issues. Was your Tundra sagging? It does not sound like the WDH was setup up correctly, i.e. the tension on the bars was not enough to distribute the weight. I'm not sure if this particular WDH has a built-in sway control.
 
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