Toyota Tundra Forums banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been researching lifts for a little while now and seem to have more ?'s than answers. I have a 2010 RW DC and want to put a 6" - 7" lift, 35's or 37's. But, I'm not just wanting the "look", I want it to perform as well. So, my question is, what is the best performing lift or suspention system on the market? I looked at camburg's site but didn't see any info on clearance. Really would like to find a kit instead of having to buy individual parts. Some pretty rough roads here in the north east and I can be a lil' hard on equipment sometimes (lol) and want a quality, great riding/performing system. Thanks for any info....Great site!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Are you 4 wheel drive or two wheel drive...and whats your intended purpose for the lift? Rock crawling clearance...high speed desert driving?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's 4WD. Can't live in Maine without it...lol...Although it's called a "Rock Warrior" I don't think I'd see too much crawling here but will definately see some good mud holes and deep rutted trails. Will use it for moose and deer hunting as well up in the back country of "The County". There are some great logging road where you can really hammer on it. So speed performance is a big plus. I guess, intended purpose would be a little of everything. Not too mention the foot or so of snow we get a few times a year. Another question I got is, how good is the stock suspention on this RW edition Tundra? Pretty new to the tech side of off roading so not sure just how hard I could drive this stock. Took a speed "hump" at 50...didn't seem to mind it too bad...lol...Thanks for your reply and any info you can give.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Basically you have three options for the front...Spacer/level type lift, bracket type lift with new knuckles or coilover type lift. In the rear you can do blocks, add a leaf or new leafs. If you are looking for more than 3" of lift you will pretty much be in the bracket lift category such as rough country, rcd, bds. For my 4wd double cab Im considering doing a set of coilovers for the front, possibly camburg, icon, sway away along with new upper control arms. For the rear I am considering using the old man emu 2.5" lift springs and a set of extended shocks. In any case if you do coilovers or spacer do a differential drop kit for the front. Just all depends on your budget.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,683 Posts
Basically you have three options for the front...Spacer/level type lift, bracket type lift with new knuckles or coilover type lift. In the rear you can do blocks, add a leaf or new leafs. If you are looking for more than 3" of lift you will pretty much be in the bracket lift category such as rough country, rcd, bds. For my 4wd double cab Im considering doing a set of coilovers for the front, possibly camburg, icon, sway away along with new upper control arms. For the rear I am considering using the old man emu 2.5" lift springs and a set of extended shocks. In any case if you do coilovers or spacer do a differential drop kit for the front. Just all depends on your budget.
You should have saved your breath bro, hes asking for a 6-7" lift, not 3". For that Id look into a Procomp stage one or two and add Icon 6-7" adjustable coilovers.

http://www.iconvehicledynamics.org/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_43_114&products_id=367
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
^^^+1 on the P.C. w/ Icons! Love them
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
546 Posts
If you wanna do 35's you can do a 3" lift. You just gotta pic the right wheel/tire/lift combo.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,253 Posts
IMHO...the truck is wide enough to lift that high and keep some performance at speed...but anyway, to get to basics first...

Most 2nd gens I have seen have been lifted entirely for looks. Performance is a completely different game. FWIW, the "Rock Warrior" edition is what, stickers and wheels? There is no offroad performance gain, none at all.

What does "performance" mean to you? Handling and cornering at speed? Ability to soak big hits? Suspension travel? How fast do you mean, when you say "speed"? Think you'll get any air time? Want some?

Or does "performance" mean big tires and making the roof line 6-7" higher than it is now?

I have seen a few 2nd gens built for offroad performance. They are not tall, no drop brackets, no body lifts, but they certainly do have 35" or 37" tires.

Your desire for height is counterproductive to everything except satisfying that desire. If you go offroad, you want clearance, articulation, stability, and traction. If you get height as a result, ok...most do...tires alone can increase differential clearance by as much as 4". However, height in that case is a byproduct of tire size and suspension height, not drop brackets or body lifts.

As I said, the 2nd gen trucks are wide enough to take a drop bracket without being disproportionately high, so if you want performance to go with all that height, pick up a pair of Camburg upper control arms and some long coilovers to go with your drop bracket. You'll have the articulation you need to improve performance offroad, with a smooth ride for pavement and better control offroad, and you'll get the height you want.

Otherwise, well, I dunno that you want to go down the road toward pure performance. It's expensive, and requires more from you and the truck than a simple drop bracket and a pair of coilovers. Post up if you're curious...I haven't seen more than a couple 2nd gens built that way. Most just shove some stilts under there and talk about how badass and sicky gnar it is.

-Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
..."What does "performance" mean to you? Handling and cornering at speed? Ability to soak big hits? Suspension travel? Think you'll get any air time? Want some?...."
Yes to all of that. Air time...? Probably won't see it, but would love to have the ability there. It's like having the 5.7...do I need it? no, but it's nice knowing it's there if I ever do...Is there a 4" kit on the market that would still allow me the perfomance I want? Going to run 35's on 18's 0r 20's. Need to do this the "right" way cause the truck will definately be "tested" on occasion.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,253 Posts
Yes to all of that. Air time...? Probably won't see it, but would love to have the ability there. It's like having the 5.7...do I need it? no, but it's nice knowing it's there if I ever do...Is there a 4" kit on the market that would still allow me the perfomance I want? Going to run 35's on 18's 0r 20's. Need to do this the "right" way cause the truck will definately be "tested" on occasion.
The "right" way will give a lot of people apoplexy, if they think it's all about height...low, wide and nasty on big tires is where it's at, trust me...whether you're hauling or crawling.

Would you say that a Raptor is "lifted"? Do you think it needs to be?

Some suggestions, then...

You can add the drop bracket, but IIWY I'd not push the truck as hard as you're suggesting.

If it really is performance you're after, ignore drop brackets, spacers, blocks, body lifts and the like. They give height and nothing else, and height is anathema to performance. Don't worry about height, if you want performance...you'll get it from tire size and likely also from setting up the suspension how you need it, in order to drive like you want.

If you don't mind my asking, what's your budget for the front end? For the rear? You're looking at 2K to 7K, depending on how stupid you wanna get in the dirt.

-Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
After watching vids on youtube, it's going to be performance over height all day!! I'm hoping I can do the whole thing for 5-7k possibly a little more. GlassWorks fenders included (haven't priced those so not sure) (are they a must?) I can get pretty "stupid"...lol...So now, I'm assuming that I got 2 main chioces...Camburg or Icon. Seems everyone raves about both. Would one's product give more height or performance than the other? What could I expect to gain in height with their product on 35's. Truck has 31's on 17's now. Guess that would be 4" just with tires huh? duh...and I think that would be good for some of the places I tend to go. Anyone running the Icon stage 5 system?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,253 Posts
Now we're talkin' :D.

5-7K puts you in the ballpark for 16" travel up front on a pair of 2.5" body coilovers, and some nice shocks in the back with a replacement leaf pack from Deaver or Alcan...look at Camburg's long travel kit for 2nd-gen trucks. You'll retain the 4WD, if you're so equipped.

If you don't want to spend as much, their upper control arm and a set of longer coilovers will net you about as much travel as an LT on a 1st-gen, and it's only seven bills for the upper arms, compared to three large for the upper & lower on the LT kit.

The rear suspension absolutely cannot go untouched...in stock form, and particularly with long travel, it cannot keep up with the front and will limit your ability to really get it. There is nothing more frustrating than dragging a complaining rear end over the rough, when the front is completely plush. I'm not sure offhand who to talk to about a rear end conversion that will keep up with the front, but Camburg should have some suggestions, and I know Icon has some great shocks for your truck as well, that might be a bolt-on addition and do exactly what you want. Radflo is another good option, and I've heard the customer service department at Fox is excellent.

If you get this sort of kit, knowing how to maintain and service it is paramount. Got a good set of tools and a place to tear it down?

Camburg put a 2nd-gen through the Baja in mostly stock form...if I were you, I would start by talking to Scott about suspension upgrades.

This is what 7K or so in suspension upgrades gets you :D.
YouTube - nitt tundra launch

Long Travel System | Camburg Engineering

-Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
What SEAN said, for sure!

The really 6-7 INCH tall ones are for looks but the 3-4 inch COIL OVERS AND NEW UCA are for off roading TRUE FUNCTION!

After reading a ton and asking guys at this forum allot of questions I got the adj 5100 for my truck that sees 95% street to level.

If I wanted to compete with a RAPTOR (it is definitely not 6 inches tall) then FUNCTIONAL components is what I would be definitely looking for and not aesthetics.


IMHO...the truck is wide enough to lift that high and keep some performance at speed...but anyway, to get to basics first...

Most 2nd gens I have seen have been lifted entirely for looks. Performance is a completely different game. FWIW, the "Rock Warrior" edition is what, stickers and wheels? There is no offroad performance gain, none at all.

What does "performance" mean to you? Handling and cornering at speed? Ability to soak big hits? Suspension travel? How fast do you mean, when you say "speed"? Think you'll get any air time? Want some?

Or does "performance" mean big tires and making the roof line 6-7" higher than it is now?

I have seen a few 2nd gens built for offroad performance. They are not tall, no drop brackets, no body lifts, but they certainly do have 35" or 37" tires.

Your desire for height is counterproductive to everything except satisfying that desire. If you go offroad, you want clearance, articulation, stability, and traction. If you get height as a result, ok...most do...tires alone can increase differential clearance by as much as 4". However, height in that case is a byproduct of tire size and suspension height, not drop brackets or body lifts.

As I said, the 2nd gen trucks are wide enough to take a drop bracket without being disproportionately high, so if you want performance to go with all that height, pick up a pair of Camburg upper control arms and some long coilovers to go with your drop bracket. You'll have the articulation you need to improve performance offroad, with a smooth ride for pavement and better control offroad, and you'll get the height you want.

Otherwise, well, I dunno that you want to go down the road toward pure performance. It's expensive, and requires more from you and the truck than a simple drop bracket and a pair of coilovers. Post up if you're curious...I haven't seen more than a couple 2nd gens built that way. Most just shove some stilts under there and talk about how badass and sicky gnar it is.

-Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Damn, nice truck!! Don't have my own tools but got a friend who has some and a bit of knowledge. And now I have a bit more myself. Thanks for all the input and any more you can give. How technical is the maintenance for this system? Any site online I could check out for that? Google might give me something. Next X-mas can't come fast enough!! Guess it's off to the tire and wheel forum to ask if it's possible to powder coat my RW wheels and if it would save me money....anyone here know? Thanks again......
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,253 Posts
Damn, nice truck!! Don't have my own tools but got a friend who has some and a bit of knowledge. And now I have a bit more myself. Thanks for all the input and any more you can give. How technical is the maintenance for this system? Any site online I could check out for that? Google might give me something. Next X-mas can't come fast enough!! Guess it's off to the tire and wheel forum to ask if it's possible to powder coat my RW wheels and if it would save me money....anyone here know? Thanks again......
The install isn't difficult...just hand tools and time. The maintenance isn't very technical, most issues can be prevented by a good installation. Proper torque and threadlock are critical. You'll want to keep it just as clean as the paint, and top off the nitrogen charge about once a season. Keep an eye on all the fasteners, and that's about it.

While you have the front end apart, pull the alignment cams & bolts and grease them, so they don't freeze in the future and leave you cutting out perfectly good (or aftermarket!) lower control arms.

-Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hey all,

2010 Tundra DC here, considered camburg/icon and now KORE setups. Leaning to the KORE setup, using the fox 2.5 front coils, they use a longer spring than the camburg or icon setup (does require minimal grinding really not a big deal) and using the fox 2.5 rear shock with the deaver springs, I believe it would be k37 leaf but with a larger than standard shackle, should be in the range of a 3/1.5 lift, because the KORE UCA is not available right now I would probably go with the camburg UCA but using the ball joint rather than the uniball due to reports of creaking and less than optimal wear characteristics, partly due to my location, northern canada (largely cold weather driving with alot of road debris,grit, and salt.

Pending possible ridicule of my choices I have a few questions:

What are you're experience with the Deaver springs? I've heard it actually feels like a stiffer ride, it should be a more progressive setup from my understanding of the leaf, maybe feel stiffer but absorb better, not sure if that will be represented as softer through small bumps but stiffen up as a large hit compresses the leaf further (thus progressive)?

Also how drastic will the leafs effecting my hauling/towing capacity?

Any experience with long travel air bag setups?

Should I look into limit straps for the front or rear with this setup?

Kore has said that a diff spacer kit is not required, for the cost I don't see how this would be a bad choice though?

I would like to fit a 20inch wheel on a 35x12.5, from a little research it sounds like it should about a 4.5" back spacing should suffice, considering a nitto trail grappler or toyo OC MT, anyone who has fitted this size wheel/tire combo on a 3/1 ish lift have any comments for rubbing, how much fender lining was removed, or cab mount trimming required? were you able to fashion any mudflap setup as to save your paint?

Thanks guys, looking forward to your input.

Reid
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top