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Discussion Starter #1
So a vehicular inclined good friend of mine and myself decided to swap out his Titan shocks as well as my Tundras shocks yesterday, clearly since mine is a superior vehicle we decided to do mine first, swapping out stocks with the Bilstein 5100's. We ran into alot of problems please read/advise.

Modifications: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Front shocks set on highest setting + Toytec Differential drop


ISSUES with install:

- Left side Front sway bar ball mount that connects to lower control arm, could not get it back in for reinstallation, had to remove it and put it back in, ended up putting a hole in the rubber ball joint area.


Test drive/new feel of ride:

- Steering is stiff

- I seem to lose traction on areas/parts I used to be fine on, 4x4 HI is the only one I tested but it works.

- Turning the steering wheel all the way for a turn and letting go of the wheel (it should spin back on its own), however it sticks/stays in the turned position so you have to manually turn it back

-One side is easier to turn than the other

- Tires rub on rear mud flap now at full turn (didnt have this problem with Readylift 2.4 installed previously)

- In full turn to the left I hear a tire squeal/squeak (almost like peeling out)

Conclusion:

- I need to still install the rear shocks, BUT I still need to do 0 point calibration + allignment will any of that fix anything I have going on listed above?

- Anyone in socal that is good with suspension? I dont feel like getting ripped off at the dealer or some 4x4 shop. Im willing to buy food,beer,ammo, and pay.


This is my main source of transportation and Im driving on it currently like this, so any advice is needed.
 

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I'm not from SCAL but as a suggestion, if you are not all stressed out and have some time, take some good pics and post. With enough eyeballs on here staring at the installation, maybe one or more of us can spot something that might have gone wrong. :embarrassed3d:

Just take it easy in the meanwhile to prevent any potential damages. . .but you already knew that.
 

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Sounds like 90% of your problems are related to the alignment. When you lift the front you are adding signifigant positive camber and your caster angles are drastically changed as well. When I did mine it took me over an hour to get the alignment back close to stock specs.
 

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sounds just like just about every other 5100 install - "your milage may vary" pretty much sums it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
im hoping it is an alignment issue, but I think i should go about replacing the ball joint first before getting the align done.

on a different note, I have the bilsteins on their highest setting and it seems a tad not level? I thought most people had leveled results when they put theirs on the highest setting?
 

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Your results may vary with the leveling of Bilsteins. I've read anywhere from rake, to level to nose high.

Seems like you're going to be spending money to dig yourself out of this hole. I hope you get it fixed with just an alignment, but you should probably get it all checked out by a real mechanic.

And as far as when turning left and "peeling out" it will be a 4hi issue since it's not supposed to be used on dry pavement. There has to be something wrong with the way you put your suspension put back together.

-rockstate
 

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Sounds like an alignment will take care of the squealing and probably your other steering issues.

The trick to getting that ball joint back together (that worked for me) was to use a small bottle jack on top of the upper control arm to push everything down so you could reinstall that lower ball joint. Works like a charm.


So a vehicular inclined good friend of mine and myself decided to swap out his Titan shocks as well as my Tundras shocks yesterday, clearly since mine is a superior vehicle we decided to do mine first, swapping out stocks with the Bilstein 5100's. We ran into alot of problems please read/advise.

Modifications: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Front shocks set on highest setting + Toytec Differential drop


ISSUES with install:

- Left side Front sway bar ball mount that connects to lower control arm, could not get it back in for reinstallation, had to remove it and put it back in, ended up putting a hole in the rubber ball joint area.


Test drive/new feel of ride:

- Steering is stiff

- I seem to lose traction on areas/parts I used to be fine on, 4x4 HI is the only one I tested but it works.

- Turning the steering wheel all the way for a turn and letting go of the wheel (it should spin back on its own), however it sticks/stays in the turned position so you have to manually turn it back

-One side is easier to turn than the other

- Tires rub on rear mud flap now at full turn (didnt have this problem with Readylift 2.4 installed previously)

- In full turn to the left I hear a tire squeal/squeak (almost like peeling out)

Conclusion:

- I need to still install the rear shocks, BUT I still need to do 0 point calibration + allignment will any of that fix anything I have going on listed above?

- Anyone in socal that is good with suspension? I dont feel like getting ripped off at the dealer or some 4x4 shop. Im willing to buy food,beer,ammo, and pay.


This is my main source of transportation and Im driving on it currently like this, so any advice is needed.
 

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sounds just like just about every other 5100 install - "your milage may vary" pretty much sums it up.
It's not a Bilstein 5100 related issue. You need to have an alignment done after any installation which changes the suspension. And even then, you can still have problems if other components and factors of your truck come into play with the new installation.

I agree with posts suggesting to recheck the installation yourself, or have a mechanic check your installation to determine if perhaps something did not fit or put back properly, and then have an alignment done.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated, as of now im waiting on the replacment ball joint, and then off to alignment I go.

also 0 point calibration is that before or after alignment?
 

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Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated, as of now im waiting on the replacment ball joint, and then off to alignment I go.

also 0 point calibration is that before or after alignment?
I have the 5100's on the top setting and I never had the zero point calibration and I have had zero beeps. I think you only have that done if your truck starts to get warning beeps on turns.
 

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Well, I am a "real" technician, and I guarantee you that the alignment will fix 99% of your problems, I drove my truck after my lift and before I aligned it, trying to settle the suspension, and what you are describing as far as drivability is exactly what I was experiencing. The alignment was the cure for all of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I am a "real" technician, and I guarantee you that the alignment will fix 99% of your problems, I drove my truck after my lift and before I aligned it, trying to settle the suspension, and what you are describing as far as drivability is exactly what I was experiencing. The alignment was the cure for all of it.
Thanks for all the advice guys, I got it aligned yesterday, and let me say the tundra is beautiful.

the alignment guy took a double take at me as id driven it for 2 weeks unaligned and the tire wear was pretty bad. :rolleyes:

THE ONLY thing that happens now is at full lock/turn the tires rub against the mudflaps on the back of the FRONT wheel well? anyone have this issue? im running 20" Ultra Goliaths with 275/65/20 Mich. AT2
 

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THE ONLY thing that happens now is at full lock/turn the tires rub against the mudflaps on the back of the FRONT wheel well? anyone have this issue? im running 20" Ultra Goliaths with 275/65/20 Mich. AT2

nope - because I took my mud flaps off.
 

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Just ordered the Bilstein 5100's and plan on doing BFG's in 305.65.18. I know I will need to trim the skid plate slightly...this thread convinced me that an alignment would be the third thing I do...thanks for all the constructive input!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wildtrout, trust me unless you want a gang of tire wear. DO IT.

EVERYONE ELSE: my Truck sits almost level still raked a tad bit, im not liking it. are there any remedies to it? my only thought is that I screwed the nut on the stock assembly too far which then compressed the bushings even more. Can I loosen them a bit or will that be pointless?
 

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My 3/1 makes it sit perfectly, mabey its that half inch difference in the 5100's that makes the difference.
 

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I had the 5100's installed about a month ago, along with 33" Toyo M/T's and 20" XD Monsters. I don't have any rubbing whatsoever and did not have to take my mudflaps off. The rear of my truck is sitting 1" higher than the front. It is my understanding that the 5100's are designed to get maximum lift without overextending all the suspension angles. Any higher and you would probably need UCA's that will compensate for caster/camber issues.
 

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I had the 5100's installed about a month ago, along with 33" Toyo M/T's and 20" XD Monsters. I don't have any rubbing whatsoever and did not have to take my mudflaps off. The rear of my truck is sitting 1" higher than the front. It is my understanding that the 5100's are designed to get maximum lift without overextending all the suspension angles. Any higher and you would probably need UCA's that will compensate for caster/camber issues.
How are the ousides of your front tires doing? I have the 5100's and I think I need to have it re-aligned. I know with a heavy truck and all city driving I will get some outer wear.
 

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How are the ousides of your front tires doing? I have the 5100's and I think I need to have it re-aligned. I know with a heavy truck and all city driving I will get some outer wear.
I took it in for another alignment after about 1000 miles at no charge. It was pulling to the right a bit. They (4wheelparts)told me the caster was off a little and i noticed the outsides were wearing very slightly. I have driven another 1000 miles since with no problems. I am however getting the Camburg UCA's installed this friday and this should keep me from having any further caster/camber issues.
 

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I took it in for another alignment after about 1000 miles at no charge. It was pulling to the right a bit. They (4wheelparts)told me the caster was off a little and i noticed the outsides were wearing very slightly. I have driven another 1000 miles since with no problems. I am however getting the Camburg UCA's installed this friday and this should keep me from having any further caster/camber issues.
How much will the uca's cost and how much for installation?? I might go that route if it will save me money on tires for the long run. Thanks for the info.
 
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