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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hoping someone can answer my lift/diff/tire questions....
I have decided on the 5100 for front and rear with the 1" block in the rear as well. Looking to get the differential drop kit from toytec or total chaos.
Then plan on getting the Toyo Open Country A/T tires for the truck (07 CM 4X4).
These tires aresupposedly 34.8 inches high and would be going on stock 18 inch rims (P285/75 R18).
Am I running into any issues other than trimming the SP? Anybody try this?
I don't do off roading in sand but do a couple days a month in Tennessee hills and fields.
I was near ready to do the Ready Lift or Toytec 3/1 but switched it up after about 4 days of thread reading.
Any help would be awesome.
 

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Those will work just fine on stock rims, with sp trim. You shouldnt need to do anything else. I had that setup for awhile and was even able to leave the mudflaps on. Just a side note, the tires are LT285/75/18s not P rated like you mentioned. The only other piece of advice Id offer you is to seriously take a look at the Nitto Terra Graps in 295/70/18 (34.4 x 11.8). Pretty much the same tire as the Toyos but its a bit wider and looks better on the tundra than the narrower 285/75 (34.8 x 11.3)
 

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Check my photo album if you want to see pix of the clearance with 285/75R18 with no lift and stock rims. Should be no issue at all except the skid plate.
 

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Those will work just fine on stock rims, with sp trim. You shouldnt need to do anything else. I had that setup for awhile and was even able to leave the mudflaps on. Just a side note, the tires are LT285/75/18s not P rated like you mentioned. The only other piece of advice Id offer you is to seriously take a look at the Nitto Terra Graps in 295/70/18 (34.4 x 11.8). Pretty much the same tire as the Toyos but its a bit wider and looks better on the tundra than the narrower 285/75 (34.8 x 11.3)
Totally agree. I plan on the Nittos if my Toyos ever wear out; the Nittos weren't available yet a couple years ago when I picked the Toyos.

Nice picture BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the help guys. I do like the look of the Nitto tires.

I stopped into a local Off road shop to get a price for some of my set up and was a little taken back at the prices. Everything I ever tried to do has always been 3X longer and harder than the instructions say it will. That, plus a limited supply of space and tools requires me to go to the people who have done it before. Anyway, the front shocks were $120 per and the backs were $100 per. 3hours labor for the fron and 3 for the back at $80 per hour. Add in an hour for the diff drop and an hour for the back shackle and I was looking at $1100 - $1200 for the whole lift.

couple other things...the guy was adamant about not replacing the shocks if they weren't bad (45k miles on the 07). He proposed the BDS 2.5 lift. He also suggested a "shackle" in the back to give it a better ride. The difference was $50 so in the big scheme of things = not a big deal.

I am not familiar with off road shops....is the rate fair? Are the time estimates fair? I was teetering on the spacer/shock lift options before...I just wasn't expecting 12 bills.

Could have been my expectations were way off.
 

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I can tell you for the fronts it's on the tiny bit of a high side. I paid $300 WITH an alignment which is about $230... but, they needed to built my struts.

The rears shouldn't be that much IMO. You can probably do them yourself.

-rockstate
 

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Thanks for the help guys. I do like the look of the Nitto tires.

I stopped into a local Off road shop to get a price for some of my set up and was a little taken back at the prices. Everything I ever tried to do has always been 3X longer and harder than the instructions say it will. That, plus a limited supply of space and tools requires me to go to the people who have done it before. Anyway, the front shocks were $120 per and the backs were $100 per. 3hours labor for the fron and 3 for the back at $80 per hour. Add in an hour for the diff drop and an hour for the back shackle and I was looking at $1100 - $1200 for the whole lift.

couple other things...the guy was adamant about not replacing the shocks if they weren't bad (45k miles on the 07). He proposed the BDS 2.5 lift. He also suggested a "shackle" in the back to give it a better ride. The difference was $50 so in the big scheme of things = not a big deal.

I am not familiar with off road shops....is the rate fair? Are the time estimates fair? I was teetering on the spacer/shock lift options before...I just wasn't expecting 12 bills.

Could have been my expectations were way off.
I'd find a different shop. Their parts prices are a little on the high side, but their labor is outrageous IMO. The time estimate on the rear is grossly overstated; their labor rate also seems a bit high, though that might be normal in your area.
 

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This is some great info. Thank you for this post! I've been sweating out the options for over a month and been driving myself INSANE! I was planning on the 5100's with the Nitto Terra Grapps in 295/70 18 on a set of Kmc Monsters and Camburg uca's. Glad to hear I came up with a good combo. Anyone know it the 18mm offset on those wheels will be a help or a hindrance as far as any kind of rub goes? And screw Bilstein for their manufacturing delays with the shocks for the Camburg Trail Series 3.0. That would have been PERFECT.
 

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I was quoted ~$260 to install fronts (without diff drop) with rears being done free. The shop I called doesn't carry the product, so that's with me bringing them in.
 

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I was quoted ~$260 to install fronts (without diff drop) with rears being done free. The shop I called doesn't carry the product, so that's with me bringing them in.
That's reasonable.
 

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I paid $210 for the fronts and it took about 3 hours to do, very happy with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Finally got it all done....
Bilstein 5100's in front
No lift in back
Toyo Open Country AT on stock 18 rims

I like the look A LOT...some of my other issues/concerns:

I see a large difference in MPG. Highway driving at 67 (GPS said I was doing 72) I was getting 13 if I was careful. I filled up a couple times from TN to MI. So I got a taste of the hills of TN and the flat Ohio portion of I-75. Here's my question, I know the odometer and spedometer are understating the actual (going from 32.1 to 34.8 inch tires). I expect that. I think my mpg calc is about one mpg off so 14 mpg on highway may seem reasonable.

I've looked into the Hypertech calibrator and it may be an option....my question is if it addresses the shift point issues? Opinions vary about the shift points so I'm not sure? If the calibrator only fixes the spedometer and odometer I wouldn't be so anxious to get it. If it will improve the fuel economy or gets the shifting back closer to stock then I may do it a little quicker... Anybody have thoughts on this? I asked at two local dealers and the people I spoke to knew less than me about this truck and, recent research aside, you have to try to know less than I do!

-Side question about the onboard computer...it's set to read X miles an hour for each tire rotation...is that something that could be changed or do you have to have the calibrator installed to adjust it permanently?

Thanks for all of the advice in the past!
 

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Based on your new tire height VS your old height, your tires are actually turning less per mile with your new tires... instead of 629 rev/mile, you're now doing 579 rev/mile (or 92%). SO... if your display says 13 mpg, you're actually getting 14.13 mpg (divide 13 by .92) [that's not an exact mathematical formula, but it's close enough for government work]

You're also getting worse MPG's anyhow for the following reasons: Your tires are heavier, wider, and have more rolling resistance (or drag) due to the new, more aggressive lugs... your engine has to work harder to turn them and move your truck than it did with your standard highway tires of stock width/height. That's in addition to changing your gear-ratios due to the new tire-height. Also, by lifting your truck, you're changing the aerodynamics slightly, and it's facing more wind resistance.

Lifts and big tires look sweet, and serve a purpose... but will never help your MPG's :tu:

Finally got it all done....
Bilstein 5100's in front
No lift in back
Toyo Open Country AT on stock 18 rims

I like the look A LOT...some of my other issues/concerns:

I see a large difference in MPG. Highway driving at 67 (GPS said I was doing 72) I was getting 13 if I was careful. I filled up a couple times from TN to MI. So I got a taste of the hills of TN and the flat Ohio portion of I-75. Here's my question, I know the odometer and spedometer are understating the actual (going from 32.1 to 34.8 inch tires). I expect that. I think my mpg calc is about one mpg off so 14 mpg on highway may seem reasonable.

I've looked into the Hypertech calibrator and it may be an option....my question is if it addresses the shift point issues? Opinions vary about the shift points so I'm not sure? If the calibrator only fixes the spedometer and odometer I wouldn't be so anxious to get it. If it will improve the fuel economy or gets the shifting back closer to stock then I may do it a little quicker... Anybody have thoughts on this? I asked at two local dealers and the people I spoke to knew less than me about this truck and, recent research aside, you have to try to know less than I do!

-Side question about the onboard computer...it's set to read X miles an hour for each tire rotation...is that something that could be changed or do you have to have the calibrator installed to adjust it permanently?

Thanks for all of the advice in the past!
 
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