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Discussion Starter #1
In nearly 50K I've had the front diff TSB done and have had to suffer with the dreaded slow clock during the summer. I DO love this truck, but twice now the truck has done its auto cranking thang and not started.

I'll completely turn off the ignition and try again.... it may start, but then die nearly instantly.


After a few attempts, truck will start and run like nothing ever happened.


First time was well over a year ago.


Last time was this morning. After 1/2 dozen attempts, she started and ran GREAT as usual. Today's adventure was towing 6,000-7,000 pounds in 110* heat up and down some major grades.

Converted two more people to Tundra performance......of course, they weren't there during the morning start.

Anyone else experience this strange, but very intermittent, starting ritual??
 

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Happened once or twice for me but I'm not sure what to attribute it to.

Had it completely not start on me once and the terminal was loose. Not saying it was your problem, but it was mine once.


-rockstate
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Happened once or twice for me but I'm not sure what to attribute it to.

Had it completely not start on me once and the terminal was loose. Not saying it was your problem, but it was mine once.


-rockstate


Did yours still crank over??


By terminal, I assume you mean battery; yes?
 

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Well, I had the once or twice where it failed to start because the computer quit cranking after x-seconds. It started the attempt after.

My brother's 4runner has done the same thing a numerous amount of times and the first battery (Panasonic) went for 95K miles and 7 years. Not bad. I don't think mine will last that long.

The terminals were loose one day and I couldn't get the thing to start til I wiggled it. They sprayed anticorrosive spray on the terminals at the dealership and didn't tighten it down I suppose and the problem showed up a week and about 2100 miles later.

-rockstate
 

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Were you using the same key you normally use? I've had the issue when changing between spare keys before... it's like it has to remember the old key *really* is valid before it will let it start.
 

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I'm just going to throw this out there, but you mentioned how hot it was when it didn't start. Was it that hot the previous time it didn't start as well? Just wondering if the expansion-rate of the metal on the cable is higher than on the battery's terminal. If that was the case, you may get less contact due to the gap. But again, not sure, just saying that if this happens in high heat, you may want to tighten the terminals down a bit...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm just going to throw this out there, but you mentioned how hot it was when it didn't start. Was it that hot the previous time it didn't start as well? Just wondering if the expansion-rate of the metal on the cable is higher than on the battery's terminal. If that was the case, you may get less contact due to the gap. But again, not sure, just saying that if this happens in high heat, you may want to tighten the terminals down a bit...

It cranks hard and fast......I do not believe it's a voltage/amperage problem.

Thanks for thinking about it, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Were you using the same key you normally use? I've had the issue when changing between spare keys before... it's like it has to remember the old key *really* is valid before it will let it start.

Good thinking but I rotate my 3 keys fairly regularly.

All the keys sit on a tea cart in front of the door.....they are grabbed at random.


Also, strangely enough and not happening the 1st time, is the truck would some times crank and no-start and sometimes start but die after a few seconds.


Like you, I'm leaning toward some factory anti-theft device acting up......even though mine is NOT activated.
 

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The only time I've had this happen is after the battery has been disconnected. I would say check the terminals on the battery too for corrosion, although I'm sure you're way past that in your trhoubleshooting. I don't know man but it would drive me crazy too
 

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The only time I've had this happen is after the battery has been disconnected. I would say check the terminals on the battery too for corrosion, although I'm sure you're way past that in your trhoubleshooting. I don't know man but it would drive me crazy too
Same with me, only happened after having had the battery disconnected.

Perhaps try not relying on the auto-crank, and hold the key like we all used to? Maybe the auto-crank is cutting off just a fraction too early sometimes.
 

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The M.F.I.C.
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Yeah - happens to me everytime I have the battery disconnected for longer than a few mins. So, I'd suggest what the others have said... check your terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Same with me, only happened after having had the battery disconnected.

Perhaps try not relying on the auto-crank, and hold the key like we all used to? Maybe the auto-crank is cutting off just a fraction too early sometimes.


I appreciate all the troubleshooting, but I do need to repeat a few things:


1) During this episode, it did start once or twice and then just quit. (mentioned)


2) While I did let go of the key to allow "auto cranking", she cranked a good 5-7 seconds when not starting. (not mentioned, but certainly plenty of time to start)

3) Battery/terminals are fine.......

4) I'll need to be schooled on this: When trying to use a wrong key in a Ford, vehicle will not even crank.......I assume Toy is the same way??? If so, that rules out the keys.


I have some EFI experience on Fords, and I'd imagine it could be the same on Toys.

When the key is goes past "on" the pump will turn on for a few seconds to pressurize the system. I almost think during the cranking/nonfiring episode, that's not happening......don't know if it's a ghost in the machine or a glitch in the non-connected anti-theft.

On the few times it started and quit, it would seem the pump DID prime the system and then did not go into its secondary run mode.

I currently have a '94 Mustang with a blown DOHC 4V '98 motor that I wired the pump to be turned on manually since it would prime and only stay on during WOT. During cruise, it would shut off....(yes, it still goes through the inertia switch) This was Ford's great idea to increase pump life by varying voltage depending on load.

I hate intermittent problems since I cannot expect a tech to fix something when it's not happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just out of curiosity, how long was the truck sitting before you started it this morning? Have you driven it in the last couple days?

I doubt there's ever more than 15 hours between starts.
 

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I appreciate all the troubleshooting, but I do need to repeat a few things:


1) During this episode, it did start once or twice and then just quit. (mentioned)


2) While I did let go of the key to allow "auto cranking", she cranked a good 5-7 seconds when not starting. (not mentioned, but certainly plenty of time to start)

3) Battery/terminals are fine.......

4) I'll need to be schooled on this: When trying to use a wrong key in a Ford, vehicle will not even crank.......I assume Toy is the same way??? If so, that rules out the keys.


I have some EFI experience on Fords, and I'd imagine it could be the same on Toys.

When the key is goes past "on" the pump will turn on for a few seconds to pressurize the system. I almost think during the cranking/nonfiring episode, that's not happening......don't know if it's a ghost in the machine or a glitch in the non-connected anti-theft.

On the few times it started and quit, it would seem the pump DID prime the system and then did not go into its secondary run mode.

I currently have a '94 Mustang with a blown DOHC 4V '98 motor that I wired the pump to be turned on manually since it would prime and only stay on during WOT. During cruise, it would shut off....(yes, it still goes through the inertia switch) This was Ford's great idea to increase pump life by varying voltage depending on load.

I hate intermittent problems since I cannot expect a tech to fix something when it's not happening.
Not sure about Toy, but Bimmers will crank with a bad key. They just won't fire off and run. IIRC, the Mopar cars will start and stall. Not sure about GM and Ford.
There are data recorders that would probably let you know if the injectors and coils are being asked to fire. It might let you know if the key is being recognized, depending on the unit. We used to use data recorders to record info on cars with intermittent problems that did not show up while the car was at the shop. The Chrysler units could be manually triggered by the driver or we could ask them to record when certain parameters were met...like a DTC being set.
Have you discussed the issue with a dealer?
 

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I had this problem a while back. It happened once, then didn't show up for another 6 months. Then it happened twice in one day, and 8 times in a row the day after that. Sometimes the truck auto crank and not start, and a few times it would start and run for maybe 2 seconds before shutting off.

The repair was an ignition immobilizer replacement. IIRC it's something like $1800 in parts/labor, thankfully I was still under warranty. I believe there is a TSB for it. No problems since then.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Socal, didn't want to go to a dealer UNTIL:




I had this problem a while back. It happened once, then didn't show up for another 6 months. Then it happened twice in one day, and 8 times in a row the day after that. Sometimes the truck auto crank and not start, and a few times it would start and run for maybe 2 seconds before shutting off.

The repair was an ignition immobilizer replacement. IIRC it's something like $1800 in parts/labor, thankfully I was still under warranty. I believe there is a TSB for it. No problems since then.

WRX........THANK YOU!!!!!

This was the EXACT post I was looking for.

Hopefully the dealer will take my word for it......or find some hidden data showing the malfunction.

Vince, you lurking??? :D
 

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this happens to me just about once a year. randomly it will start acting up and quit immediately after starting. it does this repeatedly. i always unhook the battery for several minutes/try another key and its good to go and runs fine. ive also read not to have any other keys nearby when your starting it.

also sounds like an immobilizer issue. asked my dealer about it and he said there is no TSB for it and won't show a code as I unhooked my battery...

good luck and let us know what you find out!
 
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