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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Bleeder screws are at the top. I was able to back the truck onto some ramps so the truck is level now. I bled the lines again (for the 20th time), and still no pedal. I've been gravity bleeding lately, and I get a nice solid stream of fluid coming out, no air bubbles. I let it drip for about 5 minutes at each wheel, no bubbles ever appear.

I'm looking at the master cyclinder now. I notice MC body sits at a slight angle with the front up, is it possible there is a giant bubble at the top? I don't see a bleeder valve on the master.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Cracked a line on the master to bleed that, re-bled the rest of the lines. Took off the front wheels to see if the calipers are working, they do when the truck is off. As soon as the truck is running, still have no pedal.

The only next step I can think of is to throw a match in the gas tank and run.
 

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I'm moving your thread to the BRAKES Technical Assistance forum.

I'd stop bleeding the brakes also, seems you're just wasting effort and fluid at the moment.
 

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I think you are at the point where you need a brake shop to bleed these out. You either have a big chunk of air somewhere, or you now have a bad master cylinder.
 

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I was thinking the LPV or BPV, I bet air trapped in there isn't getting out. Did you only bleed the line at the brakes or did you bleed the valve at the load sensing valve too? Haynes manual says to do it, just like Tundradrenalin said on permalink 18. Either that or the wrong problem is being chased.
 

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this just started on my 2000 tundra, I suspect the brake booster or booster check valve, last of all the master cylinder, none of the calipers or cylinders leak, it does brake, boost can build, but goes away and it still can brake. Seems to be a boost issue at this point, or master cylinder, and since I just changed all the shocks/struts and tie rods and ball joints the truck is at the Stealership getting an alignment. I also bled the system and changed the pads and drums and rotors and rebuilt the rear axle and bearings and seals. rear axle was leaking. I noticed the brake pedal not having boost before I did ANYTHING to the truck. I did the work to the truck because it has 150k miles on it, I may do the front caliper mod as I still have the originals and rebuild/replace the rear cylinders and I am pricing brake boosters, master cylinders and brake booster check valve. Also changed out the iridium plugs, installed new stainless steel headers and waterpump


I also bled the load proportioning valve.
 

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I asked the stealership to diagnose the brake issue. Any suggestions?

no I wont do that.....
 

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This thread has had no action in a bit but i am having the same problem now. I did a shoe replace only and had to open the drain valves to compress the cylinders. Apparently i got air in the lines. I drained the lines with a plastic hose and a jar and got a lot of air. I did the back load proporting valve and got some pedle but it's still spongy. I was thinking that maybe I should presureize the system but I don't want to waste money on getting the wrong device. Anyone having any luck with a certain vacum bleeder for a 2000 Tundra? Thanks in advance..
 

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I've used a Motive pressure bleeder twice on my Tundra, once was after I had to remove a caliper to replace a piston boot. Worked excellent both times and quick too. Much better than manually pumping the brakes, in the fraction of the time, and can do it as a one person job.

Hi Which model did you use ? Thanks!!
 

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Did you get to solve the problem of the pedal going all the way to the floor with the engine running? My 2000 Tundra has a nice hard pedal with the engine off, but nearly reaches the floor with the engine running. Trying to do a hard brake, I cannot get my rear wheels to lock up. New pads and shoes where installed, all lines bled, no leaks detected and I still cannot figure out what my problem is. I am stumped!

Also I have to question the proportioning valve, the link that attach's the valve to the axle, is it a straight rod or does it have a curve to it? I do not know if mine is bent and out of adjustment.
 

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Did you get to solve the problem of the pedal going all the way to the floor with the engine running? My 2000 Tundra has a nice hard pedal with the engine off, but nearly reaches the floor with the engine running. Trying to do a hard brake, I cannot get my rear wheels to lock up. New pads and shoes where installed, all lines bled, no leaks detected and I still cannot figure out what my problem is. I am stumped!

Also I have to question the proportioning valve, the link that attach's the valve to the axle, is it a straight rod or does it have a curve to it? I do not know if mine is bent and out of adjustment.

It is curved to get around the spare tire.
 

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You can do it solo IF you keep air out of the system........i.e. the bleed line from the caliper nipple must be immersed in fluid. You will get some fluid pulled back up the bleed line on pedal release but that can be eliminated after the bleed nipple is closed. A hassle but better than listening to my wife ask “Are you done yet?”
 

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Installed new brakes front and rear (calipers, pads, rotors, drums, wheel cylinder, shoes). I bleed all the lines using a mitivac starting from rear pass, working towards front driver. Things seeem fine. I start the truck, depress the brake pedal...nothing! It goes right to the floor, no resistance.

So, when bleeding the brakes, should the truck be running? It seems when the truck is off, I get some resistance in the brake pedal. Once I turn on the ignition and start the truck running, no brakes. What's up with that? Thanks.
I notice no update on this thread.. I had exact issues and finally got it. Replaced a rear line that blew out.. bled all, no pedal.. replaced MC, bled, no pedal.. located the bleeder valve on rear distribution block where rear line connects and routes to split over rear axle. It was corroded beyond recognition.. got it loose, bled from there with 3 tries. A ton of air pressure blew out. Pedal is more tight than it has ever been since owning my 1st gen! Hope this helps
 

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I notice no update on this thread.. I had exact issues and finally got it. Replaced a rear line that blew out.. bled all, no pedal.. replaced MC, bled, no pedal.. located the bleeder valve on rear distribution block where rear line connects and routes to split over rear axle. It was corroded beyond recognition.. got it loose, bled from there with 3 tries. A ton of air pressure blew out. Pedal is more tight than it has ever been since owning my 1st gen! Hope this helps
this is what I was looking for. I replaced a rear brake line that blew out. bled the valves at the tires and still no pedal. I'm gonna try that last valve today when my buddy gets out of work. my question is do you think the mc had to be replaced or no?
 
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