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I changed my calipers about 6 months ago and the brakes have not felt the same since. I have ceramic pads and good calipers so I know it is not them. While bleading the front front calipers, the drivers side had great pressure, the passenger side I could not seem to get the pressure I had with the drivers side. I went to the back and blead a few pumps but no air came out. I heard there may be air in my master cylinder. Is there a quick way to get the air out of the master cylinder? I called my local brake shop and they said they would drain and power flush my system for 49 to 59 dollars. Will that get the air out of the master cylinder? Any help would be great being I am going to start pulling the camper and 4wheelers and good brakes helps a bit. Also, I have to replace the lines from the a-arm to the calipers. I have stainless braided in place now but the correct lines are at the dealer. Should I coat the threads with never sieze? The lines were frozen to the old calipers and that is why I had to replace them. Thanks again for any help.
 

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there should be a bleed point on the MC.

there is also a bleed point on the load sensing and bypass and proportioning valve under the bed on the line that goes to the rear.

i would do all the work you need to do - replace lines, etc.

then, fill the MC and bleed it.

then, do a full bleed starting at back, farthest from MC and work your way closer. keep the MC full. have somebody help you by pumping the pedal, it goes a lot faster that way.

once you think you have all the bubbles out, do them all again. pay special attention to the LSB and PV. tap on it with a wrench in between bleeds to dislodge bubbles.

then adjust your rear brakes properly. read this for more info:

Toyota Tundra Brake FAQ - Maintenance and Adjustment

good luck!

antisieze is ok, just use sparingly and only on the male threads. be sure not to let anything get into the lines. i also lube up the grommets the lines go into to keep them from rubbing, kinking or otherwise getting into any trouble during extreme driving conditions, suspension articulations, etc.
 

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I would first get the right brake line in place. I don't know how you have this set up but it may be causing some kind of restriction. Brake lines rarely seize up at the threads, rather the nut seizes to the brake line. Use silicon brake grease and cost the end of lines were the nut sits.
Air can get in the master if you let the reservoir run dry. Since this master is not mounted at an angle, You can bleed it on the car. Have someone pump the pedal and hold it down, then loosen a brake line at the master until the fluid runs out. You will be able to hear it is air is present. Close the line and re pump the pedal and try the other line,
Mike
 
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