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there should be a bleed point on the MC.
there is also a bleed point on the load sensing and bypass and proportioning valve under the bed on the line that goes to the rear.
i would do all the work you need to do - replace lines, etc.
then, fill the MC and bleed it.
then, do a full bleed starting at back, farthest from MC and work your way closer. keep the MC full. have somebody help you by pumping the pedal, it goes a lot faster that way.
once you think you have all the bubbles out, do them all again. pay special attention to the LSB and PV. tap on it with a wrench in between bleeds to dislodge bubbles.
then adjust your rear brakes properly. read this for more info:
Toyota Tundra Brake FAQ - Maintenance and Adjustment
good luck!
antisieze is ok, just use sparingly and only on the male threads. be sure not to let anything get into the lines. i also lube up the grommets the lines go into to keep them from rubbing, kinking or otherwise getting into any trouble during extreme driving conditions, suspension articulations, etc.
there is also a bleed point on the load sensing and bypass and proportioning valve under the bed on the line that goes to the rear.
i would do all the work you need to do - replace lines, etc.
then, fill the MC and bleed it.
then, do a full bleed starting at back, farthest from MC and work your way closer. keep the MC full. have somebody help you by pumping the pedal, it goes a lot faster that way.
once you think you have all the bubbles out, do them all again. pay special attention to the LSB and PV. tap on it with a wrench in between bleeds to dislodge bubbles.
then adjust your rear brakes properly. read this for more info:
Toyota Tundra Brake FAQ - Maintenance and Adjustment
good luck!
antisieze is ok, just use sparingly and only on the male threads. be sure not to let anything get into the lines. i also lube up the grommets the lines go into to keep them from rubbing, kinking or otherwise getting into any trouble during extreme driving conditions, suspension articulations, etc.