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I have been quoted by the dealer $269 per axle for pads and rotor resurfacing. I was going to just replace the pads myself, but been very busy and thinking of having somebody else do it.

The dealer rate is bit high so I called firestone and they quoted me $169 for the job. They use Wagner Thermoquite pads. Any experience with Firestone and/or these pads put on your truck?

Thanks,
 

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I recently went through the whole "what pads should i use" thing on another site and one of the complaints I've heard most is squealing after using aftermarket pads. I'm definitely open to using non-OEM stuff on my Tundra but when it came down to brake pads I went back to Toyota.

As far as resurfacing the rotors, find a local brake shop to turn them for you it shouldn't cost much. Then diy.
 

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I bought the OE pads for ~$70 and did it myself. Rotors were pretty smooth so I didn't bother removing them for resurfacing (which I personally think is a waste of time and $$)..

I took my time and was done in 1.5 hours, or about the same time it would have taken me to take the truck to the dealer, argue why I didn't need any additional, unnecessary work done, and picked it up.
 

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I bought OEM pads for $65.00 online. I usually change the pads before the rotors are scored therefore no resurfacing. Resurfacing reduces the thickness of the rotors which have a minimum thinness requirement. Unless you feel any vibration do to a warped rotor when stopping, I wouldn't get them resurfaced. I believe after they have been resurfaced once the next change you will need new rotors. It is very easy to do. If you find the time you may also want to buy the clips and pins for an extra $5.00.
 

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It takes about 10 minutes per side to change out the pads and that includes jacking up the truck. I've never had such an easy time doing it. As for pads material type affects braking power so the properties you desire will dictate the type to buy. For just over $300 I replaced the factory stuff with ebc slotted rotors and yellowstuff 4000 race grade kevlar high friction pads.
 

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It takes about 10 minutes per side to change out the pads and that includes jacking up the truck. I've never had such an easy time doing it. As for pads material type affects braking power so the properties you desire will dictate the type to buy. For just over $300 I replaced the factory stuff with ebc slotted rotors and yellowstuff 4000 race grade kevlar high friction pads.


Puffnstuff,

Are the EBC products that good? I read the post about them before and have been wondering if they are really worth it. Does it make a difference even if you use the stock calipers? I would think that the calipers would make the most difference when used with a good rotor. That's what I'm leary about is replacing rotors and pads and not the calipers for a complete system. Price of calipers are pretty high I would think.


I wonder what it would cost to change over the rears to disc?
 

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I also use the OEM pads as from all the reading I do everywhere, by and large the most effective pads overall are OEM's, at least for most drivers like me.

I changed my pads out at around 53,000 miles and they still had about 3/8 worth of life in them. I had a trip to Florida to tow my new boat back to MA so I figured I'd replace them in the spring of 2007.

I have over 50,000 miles on those pads I had replaced and they are only about 1/2 worn.

I'll never have any rotor resurfaced, ever. I'll pay for new rotors before I let anyone resurface a rotor. Rotors and pads are easily replaced and also cheap.
 

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I'll never have any rotor resurfaced, ever. I'll pay for new rotors before I let anyone resurface a rotor. Rotors and pads are easily replaced and also cheap.
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All resurfacing the rotors do is make them thinner and more subseptible to warping again. If you don't have a rotor vibration under braking, just throw a set of new toyota pads on there and call it a day. These style calipers with the locking pins are easier to replace pads then a conventional caliper setup IMO.
 
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