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Hey guys,

Did a quick search and for some reason couldn't find what I was looking for. Does anyone have a link for brake replacement for an '07 crewmax 4wd? Looking to swap out pads/rotors in my driveway.

Thanks in advance!
 

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I just did this on the my 07 crewmax on Saturday. It was a piece of cake if you've ever replaced brakes and rotors on any vehicle before. I didn't take pictures or write a procedure though, sorry. Just make sure you do one side at a time. I had to reference the other side when reinstalling the clips that are used for the pads.
 

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Are you looking for a 'how to' or recommendations on rotors/pads to go with?
I'm about to change my front pads....you have any brand suggestions?


~JH
 

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Think I paid around $250 for OEM parts for the front, rotors and pads. Pads were around $55 and the rotors were $90 each I think with the rest left for shipping and whatnot. Best price I could find online around a year ago.
 

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I'm about to change my front pads....you have any brand suggestions?


~JH
I've been having really good luck with the Wagner Thermo-quiet pads on other Toyota trucks. They have the shims molded into the backing plate, so there's no chance of the shims walking around. My other choice would be the basic grade Hawk pads, but they're usually mail order - the Wagners are available at Shucks.
 

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Whatever you do, don't get the Toyota TRD pads. They went on great but there is tons more brake dust than OEM. I wash the truck more now because of the rims than the paint. I really need to find some ceramic pads or something. On a side note, any thoughts on replacing the retaining pins while there to change pads? I noticed alot of corrosion and pitting when I changed mine.
 

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I've always replaced my own brakes. But I've never done a brake job on anti-lock brakes. I was mainly just curious about bleeding them. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't a special tool or the techstream computer needed to activate the anti-lock feature in order to properly bleed these brakes? I know it isn't necessary to bleed them unless air gets in the system or your going to flush it to replace the fluid. And it won't need to be done for quite some time. Just curious. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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I'm at 70K+ with the original pads and rotors. I haul a trailer about 6 months a year with the truck. I have been looking at the EBC green pads as I assume my time is coming for replacement and I suspect at this time I will do it myself:

Greenstuff Brake Pads Products Index
 

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Think I paid around $250 for OEM parts for the front, rotors and pads. Pads were around $55 and the rotors were $90 each I think with the rest left for shipping and whatnot. Best price I could find online around a year ago.
The dealer wanted $92 for front pads! :faint2:
 

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I've always replaced my own brakes. But I've never done a brake job on anti-lock brakes. I was mainly just curious about bleeding them. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't a special tool or the techstream computer needed to activate the anti-lock feature in order to properly bleed these brakes? I know it isn't necessary to bleed them unless air gets in the system or your going to flush it to replace the fluid. And it won't need to be done for quite some time. Just curious. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
When the vehicle isn't running, the ABS system will default to open hydraulic paths allowing for normal brake actuation. When resetting the caliper pistons on an ABS equipped vehicle, it's a good idea to crack open the bleeders in order to not push older contaminated fluid back into the sensitive ABS actuator passages. The best way to do this is to keep a vacuum on the bleeder when pushing in the caliper piston. That way you don't have to worry about bleeding the system afterwards. Theoretically you do need the techstream setup to actuate the ABS unit for thorough bleeding but as long as there wasn't any air in the system before the brakes are serviced, there shouldn't be any need to take this extra step.
 

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What's the general concensus on rotors during brake pad change. I have always run with the same rotors provided there is no warpage or runout. My theory is that the rotor surfaces are properly hardened. Even if the rotors are mildly groved I have never turned them as I always assumed I had more surface area breaking once the pads conformed to the irregular surface. Turning the rotors just removes thermal mass and allows the rotors to warp more readily anyhow.
 
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