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I bought my tundra in 2001 I have put 285000 miles on it.I have gone through 10 sets of front brake pads and 2 set's of rotors. This time I replaced everything on the front end of the truck including rotors calipers and pads . But now I apply the brakes and I get studering. I don't know what else I can do. Can anyone help me?
 

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I bought my tundra in 2001 I have put 285000 miles on it.I have gone through 10 sets of front brake pads and 2 set's of rotors. This time I replaced everything on the front end of the truck including rotors calipers and pads . But now I apply the brakes and I get studering. I don't know what else I can do. Can anyone help me?
Sometimes even new rotors can be warped depending upon how they're stored. Will the store cover them under warranty?

I'd return them to another store if it's part of a chain. Maybe the next lot of rotors they have on hand are better. Worse case, they can always be turned.

Also, make sure you break in the pads if they are new.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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I'd return them to another store if it's part of a chain. Maybe the next lot of rotors they have on hand are better. Worse case, they can always be turned.

Also, make sure you break in the pads if they are new.
I would second warped rotors—try to return them first and get another set.

If that doesn’t work, I’d recheck my installation of the guide pins for the pads or retorque the caliper mounting bolts because maybe something is oscillating or vibrating with looseness.
 

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Also, don't rule out warped drums on the rear.

Mine was doing the same thing a while back. New front rotors & brake shoes and STILL shuddering. Pulled the rear drums off & took them in to get looked at. They were TERRIBLY warped and couldn't be turned. Put a new set on (and also had the new ones turned BEFORE putting them on the truck as they were out of spec right from the store--Autozone). New set of rear brake shoes w/ the new (now turned) drums and the shuddering FINALLY went away. I fought trying to figure that one out for quite some time. But so glad to have a non-shuddering truck back.

2005 Toyota Tundra DC Limited
 

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I read a paper recently on brake rotors and how it is impossible for them to warp. Instead, they pick up brake pad material (or get ground down) when they're not true. When rotors are initially installed, the hub and rotor mating surface has to be spotless and smooth. Then, using a run-out meter, reinstall the lug nuts on the rotor (w/o wheel) and check for run-out. It should be less than 0.002". Any more than that, the rotor or hub is out of spec, or it's not mounted flat. This may seem trivial, but it makes a huge difference. If the rotor isn't turning true to the hub, it will have a very slight wobble that will allow the rotor to just barely rub the pads. You won't feel it, but within 3-5k miles enough rotor will be worn off, or enough brake pad material will be deposited on the rotor that braking will develop the pulsation that everyone claims is a "warped" rotor.

If you have more than 0.002" run out, you can rotate the rotor on the hub 180° and test again. In most cases this will help negate the difference. Mark the rotor and lug so you know how to put it back on with the least amount of run out. Then, most importantly, when you install the wheel USE A TORQUE WRENCH! I've always had one, but never used it. Instead, I relied on my impact wrench. If tight is good, even tighter is better. Unfortunately, that is definitely NOT the case. Over tightening will put tension on the rotor, causing it to deflect like a twisted spring - resulting in the same abrasion on the pads.

I don't know what it is for the GEN1, but GEN2 is 97 FT/LBS for aluminum rims. Star pattern, at that torque, with sub-0.002" run-out, and you'll likely never feel the pulsation again. I'm not 7K on my Tundra after following these steps (on cheap Amazon rotors), and it's still silky smooth - even when coming off of highway speeds going downhill with a trailer. Something that would always cause "warping" feeling in just a few thousand miles after replacing parts.

Good luck...

FWIW, here's the Raybestos article on the truth about warping rotors: http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/article_archive/results/details?id=1787
 
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