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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a 2000 tundra limited, do a fair job of makin nasty ruts on trails wouldn't ya know it, front spider gears went kabooom:attention:... Well to fix the issue instead of buying crappy oe failure prone spider gears I have a spartan on order. Now I realize they are designed to let the outer tire turn faster during cornering, but since my wife drives the truck too, I dont want any issues of safety w/ a locker in the front. Its oh so super convenient that the front diff has the add disconnect so I want to wire a switch in that will give me essentially an e locker in that even tho 4 hi or 4 lo is engaged, the add will not be coupled therefore theoretically physically no locker... (and when I get in over my head (or door panels) I just hit the switch, let the add engage and walla... I'm outa my jam locked in... It's a good idea yes thank you i know:first:, but... I NEED a wiring diagram A, and B would I have to rig a relay for the switch that senses if the add is locked or not... Been tryin to imagine the schematic design in my head, but so far nothing solid to go on... :beatsme:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hello? Anyone? I just need a wiring diagram, I think I can essentially bypass the add motor signal with the switch, and either use another switch or relay for the add engagement sensor so it thinks it's locked in when its not (that way the 4x4 lights won't flash)... I figure it's a poor mans e locker at 1/3 the price:) I would be able to be in 4 hi or lo w/o thee add coupling both front wheels, power would just go to the left wheel indefinetley... That way it would be safe on the roads in snow/ice, concept being I control when the actuator engages, therefore I control whether 1 front wheel gets power or 2..
 

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Your thinking still won't work with the spartan locker. With the locker, regardless if one side is under torque, that locker is going to engage and provide torque to both sides. That's the nature of the locker. The actuator, once engage, sends torque to the front wheels. Not one or the other. The transfer of torque to either wheel happens within the differential carrier itself. In order to make this work, you'd need to convert to manual hubs. That way, you can keep one side locked and the other open. If you went with manual hubs, you wouldn't need a switch.

If you still think it will work, you can find the full service manual on here by using the search. Within it, the electrical diagrams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the link :)
But taking apart the diff to fish out the spider gear remnants, I looked at the way the add engages and what happens... It links/ and un/links the right side axle shaft only.. It does this so that both axles are (or would be if engaged) linked to the (stock form) spider gears, which then they (spider grs) would obviously decide the transfer of power to one side or the other (being that theyre just stock spider gears)... With the spartan in place, the spartan would try to be putting torque to both wheels yes, BUT it would be unlinked to the right wheel b/c the shaft coupler btwn. the spartan and (right) cv axle. It wouldn't make the transfer unless I switched my "3rd party" switch.. Now its just a matter of finding the right electrical design.. & making the relay system
 

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If you disengage the actuator, that means no power is sent to the front wheels. Regardless, if it's linking the right axle only. Once engaged, the torque from the right half shaft will cause the spartan locker to engage and in turn lock both half shafts. Until, no torque is applied. Then the spartan locker disengages and acts as an open diff.

Maybe I'm just misunderstanding or not seeing the whole picture. From the description of what you are wanting to do, it doesn't change how it all works internally. You are just changing how the actuator is engaged from the factory push button to a separate switch outside of the 4WD ECU. Throw in the locker, it doesn't make the solution any easier, it complicates it.
 
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