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Discussion Starter #1
I'm moving my thread about my coilover clunking over here b/c I feel the suspension forum gets no love (relatively). Anyhow; I have clunking in my suspension setup (Icon ext travel w/ Camburg UCA's) over any type of small bumps. Freeway, dirt roads, residential roads you name it. I was messing around with the suspension tonight, and found that when I turn the wheels to full lock right, and grab the passenger UCA, shake as hard as I can, I can feel slight movement. Accompanying this movement is an ever so slight popping noise. I thought to myself, this must be the SOB thats giving me headaches! I cannot duplicate on drivers side... Anyhow, I want to know about those of you who have had Camburgs, and have had them rebuilt. Why did you have them rebuilt? What did this accomplish? Am seriously thinking about ordering the new Uniball kit from Wheeler's. I bought the UCA's used, so it already appears that the money saved buying used will be negated if I purchase rebuild kit.:wallbang:

Anyway, appreciate your input.
 

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I had the same problem with mine after I bought them (sort of popping noise when driving, and pop/move around when you shake them). Thought maybe I had a bad ball-joint, so I called Camburg and figured it out... wash your balls :)laughing3d: lol), then spray a bunch of WD-40 on them. That worked for me and I have to do it every 3 weeks or so to keep them from making noise... if that doesn't work and you really do have a worn out ball, good luck, and let us know how hard it is to fix!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Coach Ron. I have been pretty good about keeping them lubed up with the WD40, but I will try this today and take the truck out.
 

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Call Chris at Sway-a-way. They make the c/o's for Camburg and he has never let me down. Top notch guy that does top notch work.
 

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No problem... yeah, spraying WD-40 on them usually works, but sometimes they just get too dirty, so try washing them too (a little soap and blast em off with a water hose). My balls don't pop as much when they're clean, and any noise they make after I wash them, WD-40 solves... if that doesn't work though, it is possible you could have a bad ball-joint.
 

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Have you guys tried the Lubrathane (teflon grease) on the balls? This is kind of disconcerning since I have been thinking about doing the Camburg UCA's. I wonder if the Total Chaos are doing the same thing?
 

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#1--- Make sure that the long bolt through the upper control arm is tight, torqued to 70ft-lbs. Make sure the bushings are greased BEFORE you crank down the fastener. This is a constant maintenance issue with any bushing-mounted aftermarket control arm, be it Camburg, Chaos, All-Pro, etc...the only arms that do not have this problem use heim pivots instead of bushings, and they have their own unique set of maintenance issues.

#2--- A spherical bearing, any spherical bearing, is considered "worn" as soon as it can be rotated without much resistance. New uniballs, ball joints, etc. are TIGHT...to the point the larger sizes may not be movable by hand, and even stock outer TREs will be hard to move by hand.

#3--- The Dupont stuff is fine. WD40 is also fine. Don't worry about it.

Check #1 first.

I'm not familiar with Lubrathane. Chaos recommends Superlube, which is a food-grade, Teflon impregnated grease. I guess they like it. The spec sheets say it's a poor contender compared to automotive-specific greases, and frankly, for what it's being used on, regular black chassis & bearing grease is more than good enough. Beware of poorly mixed synthetic greases...the oil likes to separate from the soap carrier, and you end up pumping a non-lubricant in to your parts. If you use one of these synth greases, make sure it's mixed before using it.

-Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Sean. Before I installed them i did notice that one of the uniballs moved very freely. To the point that i could just move the UCA around and the heavy portion of the uniball assembley would keep itself downward vai gravity. Guess i got screwed on that deal. Once i replace uniballs i will update all on the issue.
 

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Thanks Sean. Before I installed them i did notice that one of the uniballs moved very freely. To the point that i could just move the UCA around and the heavy portion of the uniball assembley would keep itself downward vai gravity. Guess i got screwed on that deal. Once i replace uniballs i will update all on the issue.
Yeah that's not right, I assume you got them used?

If they were new, they're simply not assembled correctly...make sure the center bolt is tight, the one through the uniball and misalignment spacers. If it's not, it'll clunk around and probably damage itself. I forget the torque spec for that bolt, but 100ft-lb is good. Use red ("permanent") loctite on the threads. If you tried to assemble the joint while it was at an angle, the spacer wouldn't have fit properly in the uniball, the flange blocks it, and I know at least one case where it was installed at an angle, damaging the misalignment spacer when the bolt was drawn tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, used. i'm confident they were installed correctly...I helped my mechanic as I am anal. Anyway, I'm now pretty positive that the passenger uniball needs replacement. uggghhhhhh. What a pain. Guess I'll live with it for awhile till I work up the determination to tackle yet another issue. Thanks
 

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Anyway, I'm now pretty positive that the passenger uniball needs replacement.
That sucks dude, hopefully it won't be too much of a pain to replace it...
For everybody talking about grease, search for posts about the Camburg UCA's. You aren't supposed to put grease on the actual ball because it collects more dirt, and they're designed to be used without grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just an update. I am going to replace my inner tie rod joints before I do anything with the UCA's. Jacked up the truck last night and grabbed the passenger wheel at 3 and 9 and attempted to move the wheel (pulling/pushing each side at counter opposite's). I found that I could move the wheel slightly and the movement was accompanied by a noise, what i assume to be the worn out joints clanking. Anyway, couldn't replicate on drivers side, so I will try and knock it out just on passenger side and see if anything improves. Anybody have info on this procedure? Thanks!
 

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I have the camburg upper control arms with the donahoe coilovers and i am also experiencing a clunking sound comming from the passenger side. It first started out making noise over bigger sized bumps, now it does it over anything, going down the road!! So I have been having the tire shop checking the components while rotating the tires and they have found nothing wrong. With the problem getting worse I crawled under there myself, and found the steering rack bracket cracked at the weld. Called toyota and made appointment to check the problem out, hence its under warranty stilil. will let you know if the problem persists, Also found a poping noise comming from the tie rod of the steering rack.
 

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I have a simpli solution on the camburg uca's. I made a boot out of an shock absorber boot. Simply cut the top of the boot off slide it over the uca's , you have to trim it so it will cover over thecontrol arm and fasten it with zip tie,. then you cand put grease inside to keep it lubed will post pictures later.
 

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Just an update. I am going to replace my inner tie rod joints before I do anything with the UCA's. Jacked up the truck last night and grabbed the passenger wheel at 3 and 9 and attempted to move the wheel (pulling/pushing each side at counter opposite's). I found that I could move the wheel slightly and the movement was accompanied by a noise, what i assume to be the worn out joints clanking. Anyway, couldn't replicate on drivers side, so I will try and knock it out just on passenger side and see if anything improves. Anybody have info on this procedure? Thanks!
Changing the inner tie rod isn't difficult, but you'll need to get an alignment as soon as it's done, and if you're in an area with salt on the road, the inner and outer tie rods & jamb nut may be very difficult to break loose.

Go after the jamb nut first...if you can break it loose, you can do the rest fairly easily.

Get a reference measurement, so you can ballpark the toe in order to drive it to the shop for an alignment when you're done.

Pull the boot back, and use pliers to bend the four tabs away from the flats on the joint.

You'll need a HUGE wrench to get the inner TRE off the rack, and a wrench to stabilize the rack while you're removing the TRE. It doesn't take much torque, but because you're putting the wrench around the joint itself, you'll need IIRC a 33mm, aka the biggest crescent wrench you have.

When you put the new joint back in, use red ("permanent") loctite. You'll either need to put a crow's foot on your torque wrench (with the correct torque adjustment), or just give it a good crank with the crescent, but not overly tight because if you damage the threads, you need a new rack. I don't know the factory torque OTOH.

Bend the four tabs back in place...I don't know if you get a new flange for this, or reuse the stock part. Replace the boot, add the outer joint and jamb nut, and drive easy to the alignment rack.

-Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Changing the inner tie rod isn't difficult, but you'll need to get an alignment as soon as it's done, and if you're in an area with salt on the road, the inner and outer tie rods & jamb nut may be very difficult to break loose.

Go after the jamb nut first...if you can break it loose, you can do the rest fairly easily.

Get a reference measurement, so you can ballpark the toe in order to drive it to the shop for an alignment when you're done.

Pull the boot back, and use pliers to bend the four tabs away from the flats on the joint.

You'll need a HUGE wrench to get the inner TRE off the rack, and a wrench to stabilize the rack while you're removing the TRE. It doesn't take much torque, but because you're putting the wrench around the joint itself, you'll need IIRC a 33mm, aka the biggest crescent wrench you have.

When you put the new joint back in, use red ("permanent") loctite. You'll either need to put a crow's foot on your torque wrench (with the correct torque adjustment), or just give it a good crank with the crescent, but not overly tight because if you damage the threads, you need a new rack. I don't know the factory torque OTOH.

Bend the four tabs back in place...I don't know if you get a new flange for this, or reuse the stock part. Replace the boot, add the outer joint and jamb nut, and drive easy to the alignment rack.

-Sean


Thanks,

First off, what is the TRE? Tie Rod End? Is that the part that links up with the wheel assembly?

Second, how do I go about taking the “ball park measurement” for the alignment? Mark the rod where it intersects with some other fixed part I assume? And try to get it close to that upon reinstallation?

Thanks for the info…I’m sure your directions will make more sense once I get under there.:ts:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have the camburg upper control arms with the donahoe coilovers and i am also experiencing a clunking sound comming from the passenger side. It first started out making noise over bigger sized bumps, now it does it over anything, going down the road!! So I have been having the tire shop checking the components while rotating the tires and they have found nothing wrong. With the problem getting worse I crawled under there myself, and found the steering rack bracket cracked at the weld. Called toyota and made appointment to check the problem out, hence its under warranty stilil. will let you know if the problem persists, Also found a poping noise comming from the tie rod of the steering rack.


Wow, sounds a bit dangerous…..If I were you I might just weld that sucker back until I properly fixed the problem. I do know that this is not my issue. For your steering rack noise, have you tried replaceing tie rod joints as Sean described?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am still struggling with why I am in this boat….

As you may or may not know, this whole clunking problem came concurrently with the install of the Donahoes and Camburg UCA’s. I don’t get it. Before I had these on, I had Bilstein 5100’s on 4th notch (2.2” lift). Donahoes netted me 2.4”. I find it hard to believe that 0.2” more lift is the culprit of all these clanks and rattles. Some have suggested cranking the shocks down to what the Bilsteins were netting me, but like I said…

Anyhow, I find this interesting, and once I replace tie rod joints and (hopefully not) rebuild the UCA’s, I will inform of my findings.
 

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I feel your pain man, it sucks when you put all that work into it and something is wrong. You'll figure it out though its probly something little like always and when you find the problem you'll be able to help alot more people! Just remember anything can be fixed or replaced, it's all nuts and bolts!! Good luck and keep us informed.
 
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