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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it literally just connecting a wire to each post on the amplifier? I have a 4 channel amplifier that only does 75W per channel. If I were to wire all the +'s together and all the -'s together and run them to my one speaker, would I really get 300w to that speaker? Common sense says yes (or would that be logic) but I find nothing in car audio is as easy as it seems.

The component speaker is rated at 300w (100 RMS) and I don't want to get another amp if I don't need to :)
 

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You don't hook all the +'s and all the -' together to bridge an amp.Usually there is a line above the outputs that shows you how to bridge you take the - from one channel and the + from the other channel and it is bridge look closely at the amp there should be a diagram that shows you how to do it if not check the owners manual good luck maybe post a pic of the amp and I'll point it out to you.Not sure but if you hook it up the way you are suggesting I would thing you would either fry the amp, the speakers are both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks BigAl :) Much love . . . I'll take a look at it. It's a Legacy II Series Amp.
 

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wire all the +'s together and all the -'s together and run them to my one speaker
Don't do that.

Most all amps over 1-channel are bridgable:
4-channel --> 2-channel(bridge)
2-channel --> 1-channel(bridge)

Check the amp's output labeling, the manual, the manufacturer's website (or call them), or call a local shop. Or you can trial and error yourself. Take one(+) and one(-) from different channels and see which one is the bridge. You most likely will only be able to bridge it to a 2-channel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good times :)

I couldn't find a manual for the amp online, or even a product page for it. I also looked on the amp itself and saw nothing about bridging. Guess I should get a better amp ;)
 

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Is it literally just connecting a wire to each post on the amplifier? I have a 4 channel amplifier that only does 75W per channel. If I were to wire all the +'s together and all the -'s together and run them to my one speaker, would I really get 300w to that speaker? Common sense says yes (or would that be logic) but I find nothing in car audio is as easy as it seems.

The component speaker is rated at 300w (100 RMS) and I don't want to get another amp if I don't need to :)
Power Amplifiers / Legacy
Which one is yours? Is it the LA160?
(those are some super cheap amps)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yup, it's the LA160. I know it's a piece of crap (so is the speaker). I'm basically wiring everything together, getting it to work, and then I'll upgrade. I got all the parts for free (except the LOC and the RCA cables) so it was a learning experience more than a "Kick *** stero buildout" :)

Now that I've got everything working, wires in place and hidden, etc. (proof of concept), I was considering getting like a 400x1 Amp and like a Fosgate Punch Stage 1. I noticed that there are a couple of real low profile (3 5/8") speakers out there, and that's what I was thinking of moving to. I'm putting this speaker into the compartment under my rear driver seat (just like the Bazooka VSE dealio) and I believe I can get one of those 10" low profiles in there.

Any recommendations?
 

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my local pawn shop sells 200 - 900 watt amps for like $30-60 flat. if you wanna try that LA160, use it until it burns out :devil:

bridge should look like this:

Right (+) (-) Left (+) (-)
.......B(+).................B(-)

B=bridge
If my diagram sucks, sorry;)
Usually the outside +,- are the bridgable outputs.
 
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