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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys and gals!

Im going to try to make this as short as possible. I just put four back up lights underneath my truck using the cargo light button and a relay. All four lights come on when I turn the cargo light button on, works perfectly. Problem is when I start backing up the cargo light switch turns off. Same if i start moving forward. How can I bypass this so the button will come on at any speed?

Another question. Isnt the cargo light supposed to come on if you unlock/lock and open and close your doors? Mine never comes on, unless I turn it on, and I think I remember a couple years ago it used to come on when the doors were open or closed. Who knows. I gotta bypass this switch right now.

Its a 2000 tundra access cab v8. Thanks so much! Ill most pics soon.
 

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It is against the law to have rear facing white lights on while driving, so they turn off when it goes into gear as a safety feature from the factory. The only way around that would be a different power supply, unless you know where that safety feature is located and how to take it out. As for the door, that might be a switch issue in the door if it works manually, but mine comes on when I unlock the doors with the key fob too. Good luck.
 

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I just did this as well but, installed the lights on my roof rack. The lights will stay on while driving but, will turn off at a certain speed. Let me look at the electrial diagrams and find out which wire is triggering the relay to turn off. As far as the lights coming on with the doors, check the switch at the door may be faulty. Does it work for the passenger door?
 

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Try this. Look for the relay and disconnect the green/orange wire. I'm going to try this later but, if you have time now, see if that works.

The other option is connecting the switch for the reverse to the back up lights relay. This way, when ever you put the vehicle in reverse they turn on and, off when out of reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I knew it was against the law, Thanks though Mytundrarocks:tu: As far as finding the relay and disconnecting the wire, what would I do with the wire from there? I'm planning on just using the radio iginiton wire, since its just a trigger wire right?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Alright I just looked at my FSM and I noticed the green/orange wire your talking about about. I'm guessing the relay is behind the speedometer?
 

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Odd. On my '04 DC, I am *almost* certain that I've turned on the cargo light while driving before.

I'm going to have to try that again tonight. Either I'm nuts, or something on the DCs is different.
 

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Yeah I knew it was against the law, Thanks though Mytundrarocks:tu: As far as finding the relay and disconnecting the wire, what would I do with the wire from there? I'm planning on just using the radio iginiton wire, since its just a trigger wire right?
if my theory is correct, disconnect it from the cargo relay and tie if off. This should keep the signal from the combination meter from triggering the cargo relay from turning off. Hopefully it works. I really want to be able to turn my lights on when I'm wheelin' at night on the trails.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright, so I tore my whole truck apart trying to find that relay and couldnt find it. I heard it clicking from the fuse panel and I tried to get to it but it wasnt happening. Instead I took out the gauges and found the connector and cut the wire. It works fine now. Any speed and my lights will come on. Problem is now my check engine light is on. Everything was fine, no light, before I cut the wire. I cut the wire put everything back like it should be, got a mile up the road and the light came on. So i dont know if i should ground, or give 12v to the wire coming out of the gauges and maybe ground the wire that comes off the relay? Its hard to use a meter or a test light because at a certain speed something changes, you know? Im going to autozone in the morning to get the code read and make sure that it is that. Ill figure it all out one day. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well after looking at my FSM again I think I figured something else out. What Im seeing is the g/o wire comes out of the gauges, goes to a junction connector, then splits off four ways. One g/o wire goes from the jun. conn. to the engine control module. Another g/o wire comes from junn. conn. to 4wd control ecu and then two g/o wires come from junn. conn. to intergration relay. I guess I killed the power or ground to all of those , which is making more sense why the light came on. Now I guess I need to find that junction connector and cut the wire or wires to that integration relay. Any idea of where I can find this junction connector at?
 

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Well after looking at my FSM again I think I figured something else out. What Im seeing is the g/o wire comes out of the gauges, goes to a junction connector, then splits off four ways. One g/o wire goes from the jun. conn. to the engine control module. Another g/o wire comes from junn. conn. to 4wd control ecu and then two g/o wires come from junn. conn. to intergration relay. I guess I killed the power or ground to all of those , which is making more sense why the light came on. Now I guess I need to find that junction connector and cut the wire or wires to that integration relay. Any idea of where I can find this junction connector at?

I'm going to look into this now......Let me know what else you find out.
 

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MrBeanley
On my 06 I can turn on the cargo light anytime as well, on my previous 03 I could not turn it on while driving. Guess they changed it in 04.
 

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Well after looking at my FSM again I think I figured something else out. What Im seeing is the g/o wire comes out of the gauges, goes to a junction connector, then splits off four ways. One g/o wire goes from the jun. conn. to the engine control module. Another g/o wire comes from junn. conn. to 4wd control ecu and then two g/o wires come from junn. conn. to intergration relay. I guess I killed the power or ground to all of those , which is making more sense why the light came on. Now I guess I need to find that junction connector and cut the wire or wires to that integration relay. Any idea of where I can find this junction connector at?
I may have found the correct G-O wire. Cut it this morning. Was going to remove the pin from the connector but, was impatient this morning and I just snipped it. Anyways, I can now turn the cargo light/aux lights on at anytime. They also still turn off automatically after I shut the door. No CEL came on. Hopefully, this doesn't affect other electronics. Time will tell... I cut the wire located right below the fuse box behind the lower driver side dash. Here's the pic....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yeah I saw that same wire too, I was either going to cut it there or cut it behind the gauges. Still no light? I resetted my light this morning and it took around ten miles to get the light to come back on. I guess Ill put that wire back together and cut the wire down at the fuse panel like you did. Did you see how I was talking about the junnction box and how it runs to all those different things. Another thing I didnt know is that intergation relay is actually a motherboard with relays on it and to get a new one at the dealer is anywhere from $250 to 300? Thank god I didnt just start giving 12v and grounds to multiple wires. Another thing I gotta ask is, do you think that intergation relay/motherboard/whatever it is controls the door cargo light too? When I took my lower panel off of the fuse box I noticed how water from a previously leaking windsheild had gotten to the right side of the motherboard. So Im thinking thats why my cargo light wont come on when I open up the doors.

And while Im posting this I gotta another question to ask but its a little off topic. I have a dakota digital fan controller in my truck and I need to tap into the coolant system with a new sender for the fan controller. So I bought a inline hose adapter with a 3/8npt fitting that I can install in one of the radatior hoses. Problem is I dont know which hose to install it in to get the most accuate reading, closes with the truck reading and the actual temp of the coolant running through the motor. To me I wouldnt want to install it in the inlet side, bcause thats the coolant that has allready been cooled by the radaitor. And in my case, theres a pretty big differcene because I installed a aluminum radaitor, so it really cools the coolant before going back in. I just dont wanna screw up and put this in the wrong hose and have a 20 or 30 degree difference(espcailly when the fans are on).

Thanks for all the help so far everyone.
 

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I have a 50% chance of being right but it seems to me that the top hose has the hot coolant from the engine. Only makes sense to pump the antifreeze with the help of gravity instead of against it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thats what I was thinking too. And I'm pretty sure your right now that I think about it because the t-stat is on the lower hose. The thing is the OEM coolant sensor is on the right side of the motor if your looking at the front. So now I'm wondering if the OEM coolant senders are reading the coolant temp after the coolant has went through the radaitor.
 
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