So i go to drive my truck this morning and the check engine light was on from the start. I recently disconnected my DRLs, could this be the problem? Or are there any other small things I should check before finding a scanner?
hi, this is why i say to buy a scanguage. or tthey do make much better 1's.
it could be anything. it only gives you the code. at least you have that. there is always someone here that can help with the code. & tell you what it is.
autozone, & other shops will check it for you, 99% of the time for free. even mechanic shops. they figure you are giving them work. it's worth a shot.
i think i'm going to buy a scanner for myself. this way it will tell me what the codes are. just don't know what kind is for toyota.
hopefully 1 of our ase mechanics can help, or many of you that have them, can tell me which 1 is the best for toyota's.
i would like 1, that i can input in the code manually, & it will tell me what the problem is, this way i can help everyone with codes here. maybe ebay has them. but which 1, i don't know. i don't want a garbage 1.
I bought the CP9125 (?) a few years ago on ebay for about $40 shipped. They're
definitely worth the money, especially if you do the work yourself. To go to the
dealer or most mechanics that you don't know they're going to charge you a
diagnostic fee, upwards of about $90. They usually take it off the bill at the end
if you have them do the work.
If you don't do your own work then it's probably not worth it to buy one as
the mechanic is going to still do a diagnostic check irregardless of what you tell
him you found. The way I see it, I could've spent $200 on one and still have
had it pay for itself, between the codes for O2 sensors, etc. Not to mention
the codes I've checked on friends/coworkers cars.
^^^ I agree. I used the Haynes manual last, because I Googled the codes and most answers were here. That's how I signed up. This scanner will read pending codes too, and that means your CEL will not be on. I had a hard time getting the monitors to reset, but as soon as I changed a few vacuum hoses by the charcoal canister and replaced the gas cap, all monitors turned to ready. I have used this scanner on a few cars with great success, but it involves a lot of research and getting to understand the different systems. I got more than my money's worth with it.
I actually went to Harbor Freight and bought a scanner from them. I know the Harbor Freight is not known for their "quality", but this one seems to be doing all right with me. My friend is a Toyota mechanic and he uses Actron and this one from Harbor Freight does everything his does for over half the price. Even he was impress when I showed him, but we are still both watching over it because of the quality from that store. But so far it's been good. We've used it on several cars and it's been fine. I can't get the link because Harbor freights website is down. :crazy3d: But here's the name of it, look it up sometime, when they come back up. Cen-Tech CAN OBD II Code Reader/ EOBD Scanner 98614
I don't know if it isn't in effect where you guys live, but out here Autozone and Kragen cannot check codes anymore. The have a lawsuit over reading codes, recommending parts and finding the parts made no difference. I know, because a few weeks ago my light came on and both places told me to go to Pep-Boys. Instead, I went to my smog guy who is just up the street, he happens to like my truck being a Toyota guy. He checked it and it was a 2010s code, which is the part number for JBA headers, which is what my truck was asking for!:heh:
Actually it was the evap code, cracked seal on the gas cap, but I like to think it wanted headers.:nod:
so i just got my codes checked after reading this earlier. two codes came up:
some of the probable causes listed are: air leak in exhaust, af sensor error, fuel system fault, and faulty ctalytic convertor. the chk engine light has been on for a while now. one thing i noticed was that it went off for a few weeks during the coldest part of the winter recently. could that be a helpful clue thanks
The check engine light has numerous causes, from loose gas cap, hose unhooked off of that stupid sensor/vacuum pod that I dont know what it actually is for, cat's, egr, transmission slipping and lots more.
But in your case
420 is generally a cat code, and means the cat is plugged up and would have to be replaced.
I would imagine 430 is also a cat code, one code for each cat If I am not mistaken.
We have about 5 different scan tools at work, they ranged in price from about 100.00-4800.00
The one we use most for smaller stuff is a matco Can300 and it ran around 250-300 and it not only gives you the code # but also the most common problem for it.
The 100.00 one just gives you a code and a book to look up generic junk with.
Our 1500.00 does air bags and stuff like that.
The 3000.00 does key programming and all the dealer stuff up till 2003 honda's
Our new 4800.00 is actually kind of what toyota uses and it is the Honda OE scantool. It consists of a toughbook laptop and all the honda software and cables. So we can program ecu's, keys, airbags and anything else the dealer can do.