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Not sure how many others have this problem, but I just fixed and figured out my parking brake issue on our 2001 Seqouia that has been knawing at me for the last several years. The problem was the parking brake pedal was basically ineffective when you pressed on it. We push it down several clicks and it doesn't hold. A few years ago I used my Haynes manual to adjust the cable by the foot pedal using the adjustment nut. This sort of worked for a bit, but then returned to the same problem. I have a hard time thinking our rear parking brake shoes would be worn if pedal hardly engages, so I finally took an afternoon to look into this again and found the culprit is a plastic holder on the driver's underside of the car. This is located towards the rear wheel, at the junction where the parking cable splits between both rear tires. Our problem was the plastic holder that attaches the cable to the body lost it's grip and the cable popped out and was a little loose. This introduces slack in the cable that is not accounted for, causing adjustments made at the pedal or by the junction to be off. I tried popping it back into the holder, but the minute you apply the brake and tension, it pops right out. I easily corrected this by putting the cable back in the holder and wrapping a plastic cable tie around the cable and a sturdy part of the body (I used a nearby metal tube). Tested this by pressing the parking brake pedal and the cable held in place perfectly. Adjusted the nut by the parking brake pedal again and got it to a solid hold that fell within the 6 - 9 click spec. Now it works like new.

Not sure how prominent of a problem this is, but I seems like there are quite a few posts on the internet. And a friend of ours has the same issue with their Sequoia. Thought I would pass this along for people to consider before they start looking at replacing their rear brake shoes or parking cable. Can't beat the cost of a cable tie!
 

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Great tip! I have brand new emergency brake pads and cables too, the old ones were shot, and it still doesn't hold like it should.
 

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I confirmed with my garage that when my rear rotors and pads were replaced, the parking brake shoes were inspected and were in good shape with plenty of material left. So the first thing I'll check is the presence of the issue 87Path describes... thanks again, man!

If that's not the problem I'll try the internal adjuster.

Hope to get this done Saturday the 20th (tomorrow).
 

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I got to it today and am very pleased with the results. First of all, I found the clip right where 87Path said it was:



I put the cable back in...



...and as noted it popped out as soon as I applied the parking brake. So an elegant solution was in order:



That still didn't give me enough tension to hold the truck on a slope, so I followed the instructions in the Haynes manual and adjusted the tension at the pedal:



There were only a few millimetres of adjustment left, so it didn't solve the problem either. So I got back underneath the truck and found another adjuster there:



After a few shots of WD40, a couple of hours to soak, and a wire brush treatment I could back off the lock nut. By advancing the nut at the far left of the photo I was able to apply the needed tension to put the brakes back in adjustment. :)
 

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Nice job JD. I love Pics . LOL. I am going to have to get up under and check mine out too. I'm sure I'm having the same problem . The pics give a great description of what to look for.
 

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My pleasure.

In retrospect I'm concerned that the turnbuckle adjuster assembly under the truck (last picture) is aft of the point where the cable for the passenger side rear wheel branches off... so I might have only tightened the driver's side parking brake. As yet I haven't located a similar tensioner for the other side.

All the work I've done so far has been accomplished by squirming under the truck while it's still on the ground. This coming weekend I'll get the back raised up so I can get a better look.

Edit: I got under for another look at the cable junction this morning. Take a look:



Here's another look at the turnbuckle, zoomed out a little.

 

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All the work I've done so far has been accomplished by squirming under the truck while it's still on the ground. This coming weekend I'll get the back raised up so I can get a better look.
I had the back up on Friday to take a look at the route the passenger side parking brake cable takes. From the join with the main cable it passes above the fuel tank on the driver's side and over the exhaust on the passenger side, then down the frame rail towards the back wheel. No adjuster anywhere.
 

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Hmmm... I will have to check that out! Thanks for all your pics and work. Mine won't hold hardly at all. I have adjusted the turn buckle with little change and got the clicks to where the need to be. Has anyone changed the pad for the parking brake?? Is it on the driver side? I was told it was inside the hub and a *****.

Thanks,
'01 120k
 

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Great pictures. Our praking brake is useless - added to my task list... I used cable ties to fix my lift gate latch issue...
 

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A couple of weeks after the adjustment I heard something rattling around inside the driver's side parking brake assembly. Took the truck in for service; a spring was broken. They replaced it and tightened the brakes. Here's how:

Remove the rear wheels; hold the disc / drum assembly on with a few finger-tight lug nuts. Adjust the tensioner from the front of the disc:


Tighten the tensioner to expand the brakes. This involves moving the adjuster upwards, whih translates to moving the handle of the adjustment tool (or screwdriver) downwards.
 

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JD,

Short back story:
Replaced front rotors + pads; rear rotors + pads
Replaced & adjusted emergency/parking brake shoe assemblies
Tie strapped parking brake cable #1 to ineffective holding clip.

Currently:
A fully depressed park brake pedal does not create the required tension to hold the 2002 Sequoia on a slope. I am at the point of adjusting the cable tension at the pedal. I have removed the jam nut but I am having difficulty breaking the adjusting nut free. The nut, threaded shaft and cable all want to turn.

Please advise,
Hatch
 

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I was finally able to turn the adjusting nut. I jammed two nuts (M6x1.0) on the end of the threaded rod and used an open end wrench to hold the rod against the torquing direction of the adjusting nut.
 

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My 01 Seq - Parking brake is not working. Pretty sure something came apart in the drivers side parking brake under the rotor because there is slack on the cable on that side.

Looking at the cabling underneath - I can't for the life of me figure out how the pedal pulls on the passenger side parking pads? It seems that cable just clips of the cable sheathing with a cotter pin. But it does not appear that would put a pull pressure on the passenger cable.

There is a picture above in this thread that shows the cable tie on the same area but I think the arrows are mislabeled - Unless I am missing something here. My setup looks like the pic above and it's an 01 SEQ. The top labels are reversed on the pic. The pedal is on the top left and drivers brake side on top right (not as noted in picture)



Just curious ..
 

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Another cause for Gen1 Tundra parking brake problems is that the spring on the latch/delatch arm (inside the foot pedal assembly) gets ‘soft’ and prevents correct engagement of the click pawl assembly. It is practicaly a 2 cent piece but you have to buy the whole housing (riveted together) at $170. I would guess Toyota would charge $500 to fix the problem but I didn’t it myself.
 
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