Toyota Tundra Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
We bought our 2010 Sequoia Limited used, and noticed that the climate controls would not respond for 30-45 seconds after starting the car.

After reading these two forums (since Tundras have the same front end as the Sequoia), I used a techstream tool (bought off of amazon for $20) and determined the "air damper servo motor" was bad.

tundrasolutions[dot]com/forums/tundra/140084-climate-control-system-delay-after-startup/

tundratalk[dot]net/forums/tundra-problems-maintenance-repair-dealer-warranty-issues/160689-climate-control-system-delay-after-startup.html


What I found:
When you turn the dial on the dash to control hot-cold or defrost/face/feet/combo, it sends a signal to a small motor that prepositions a door/flap that controls the hot-cold mix (ditto for direction of air outlet).
Techstream returned: "B1446 -- driver's side air mix control servo failure".

On the drivers side, there is an assembly (a plate) that has two motors and some gears attached. The air mix (hot-cold) motor and the air outlet motor (defrost/face/feet/combo). If you crawl down in the drivers foot well and look right (center) you can see the 'assembly' that has both motors on it. I found a new replacement on ebay for ~$150 shipped. So I decided to replace the whole assembly (both motors) instead of just the bad motor. (In the end this was the best solution because you had to take off the whole assembly anyway in order to replace one motor).
To get the motor assembly off, you have to take off several trim panels (including removing the entire center console). Also, you have to remove the small steel frame directly under the steering column. And you have to remove the foot well air duct. This was all realatively simple. Take pictures to help you remember what type of screw/bolt goes where.
The assembly is held in place to the a/c unit by 4 screws. 3 of those screws are visible and 'easy' to remove. The 4th screw is hidden behind a vertical steel dashboard support 'post'. Can I say that this is a terrible location for the screw. You have two choices at this point. 1 remove the entire dash board. ha. 2. drill a 1/4" diameter hole thru the steel support aligned with the screw beyond and fit a screw driver thru the drilled hole to unscrew the screw. I can post pics of this later.

Next was the hard part. When installing the new 'assembly' you have to perfectly align 5 control arms. This took me about 15-20 hours to figure out. After many trial and error failures, I finally called the dealer in desperation. He was kind enough (about 30min conversation) to print me out a diagram that shows the potions these 5 door/damper control arms need to be in so you can correctly fit the new 'assembly' into place. I may be able to upload that diagram, I'll try.

After than, you just reassemble everything in reverse order.

If needed, I can go into a lot more detail. Let me know.

Hope this saves someone 20 hours of frustration. Also, the dealer said this particular repair could be upwards of $1500-$2000 if they were to do it. Ha. Right.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,365 Posts
Good job of tracing down the problem then posting it here for members. Thank you

Larry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Attached is a pdf file that will visually show what I was trying to explain above. (like the screw hiding behind a dash steel support post).

Also, there is the diagram in here that shows where all of the "door control arms" need to be located. This was the hardest part. I ended up using rubber bands to hold the "door control arms" in place since some were spring loaded and tended to bounce out of position when I was trying to line up the new "servo assembly plate". Once the new "servo assembly plate" was screwed in place I removed the rubber bands. Also, the gear that looked like a fan needed to be held in place with a screwdriver thru a built it hole, which I assume toyota purposely built in for this purpose (see diagram).

The pdf also has most of the steps for this process; however, they are steps for a Toyota Tundra, so everything is the same, except the Tundra is missing one of the "door control arms". I assume it is the door control arm for the rear passenger vents (which the tundra obviously doesn't have).

Good luck. Let me know if more clarification is needed.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hello, Thanks so much for your comprehensive, detailed post. I have an 07 Tundra, regular cab, 5.7L, and am having the exact same problem as you. I just ordered the cable from Amazon that will allow me to scan for body codes. That cable will be delivered tomorrow. I would think it will throw the same code. If so, I will attempt the same fix you did. These instructions should help immensely! Thanks very much. I'm a little nervous about getting all the arms hooked back up onto the new plate, and having the gears all aligned correctly, but I will give it my best shot. Thanks much!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hello, Quick question: Did you have to take the individual servos off the plate? Or, can you just remove the entire old assembly plate, with all servos
mounted to it, then just install the new entire assembly plate with all servos mounted to it? (And of course connect all the arms, and make sure the
gears are all in the proper position.) Thanks very much in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Man - I owe you not a beer, but a keg!! I had the same issue - AC delay on startup, returns to factory (i.e. 74 deg) setting, have to manually turn it on each time. Mine would also not blow out of the dash or floor vents, no matter what the setting, just out of the defrost. Your diagram saved me a ton of time, and I am not sure I would have gotten it done without this - THANK YOU! To add back, here are a couple of notes/tricks that worked for me. (Mine ended up being a broken spindle holding one of the gears in the gear box - not a bad motor or disconnecting worm gear as some others had...)

1. I had a real tough time getting the gear that you put the screwdriver through aligned. So, I put some dental floss through the slit in that gear, got the plate mostly in position (including having the bottom screw mostly in), and then tugged it until it clicked into place (took a few tries...). Then cut the floss & pull it out - worked great!

2. Turn the truck/fan on to high blower when you do this - the suction helps to keep the flaps in place better (blowing out dash, ac on)

3. For the "hard to get to screw", drill a bigger hole to get the screw back into - i ended up with just over 5/8" so I could get my magnetic-tipped screwdriver through there & get the screw in (lost two of them before doing this, and cut my knuckles to pieces trying to hold the screw & put it into place. There is plenty of support left - the Tundra will not miss it, and you will get 5-8 more HP w/o the extra weight! (j/k))

All in all, this was a pain in the butt (especially since I am going to sell the truck & this essentially will benefit the next person...), but I have <200 in it, and looks like dealer would have wanted at least 1k... glad to have it done! :)

-randy

P.S. Thanks again for those diagrams and notes - I can't tell you how helpful they were!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
So I'm reading about this VERY COMMON problem with Toyotas (Not just Tundras) that the problem started with some folks after they simply changed their vehicle's battery. (My problem started ONLY after I changed the battery and alternator. Never once had a problem prior to that!)

Then, I read that the solutions range from resetting the computer to replacing expensive parts.

Wait! I have to replace parts just because I changed a battery/alternator? That can't be it.

I have had a mechanic clear the code (though I'm not sure he used a TechStream) only to have the problem persist (after doing a self-diagnostic revealed code 45*). I'm bringing the vehicle back to him to reevaluate the problem today, and I will post the results here. This is very common, evidently, and needs some clear answers. Not guesses.

*To perform a self-diagnostic: Hold down the "Recirculate Air" and "Auto" buttons simultaneously on the Climate Control panel. Turn the key in the ignition to the ON position while still holding down the "Recirculate Air" and "Auto" buttons. The digital screen will begin to blink and will display a number or multiple numbers in addition to other symbols. The number(s) is/are a generic error code(s)**. Press the "Recirculate Air" button again and the system does a self-test of the system. It should test every vent. Mine had ZERO issues. All are working fine ONCE the system decides to come on of course.

**NOTE: Codes 21 and 24 belong to the solar sensor. Ignore those if you're performing the test in the garage, under shade or at night)

2008 Toyota Tundra; automatic climate control system
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
As a follow-up, I took the Tundra into the mechanic and he reset the computer for the entire vehicle. After allowing the vehicle to sit for several hours, the problem still persists - after allowing the vehicle to sit for several hours and after turning the ignition over and starting the vehicle, after which time it takes up to a minute for the AC unit to turn on, the unit finally responds - and all previous temperature settings reset. The mechanic is dumbfounded. I'm dumbfounded. The TSB database, according to the mechanic, doesn't even list this as an issue, yet it has been a complaint by owners for years now!

There is no label near the battery or a warning in the owner's manual about it - that removing the battery may erase critical information from the PCB/ECU. And I'm surprised no one has sued the manufacturer for loss due to this issue. (Probably because it's not a safety issue!)

As it stands right now, this issue has NOT been resolved. I find it highly suspect that after changing a battery and an alternator, I now have to spend thousands of dollars to simply reset a computer that should never have had to be reset in the first place! There is no failsafe for this glitch in the system, which is insane!

Finally, be aware that this is NOT just a Toyota problem. Other vehicle makes have also been listed exhibiting these same problems, and yet not a single mechanical genius has corrected it in design.

Where the mechanic and I left it is that we will monitor the progress over the next several weeks and see if the computer corrects itself. If it does or does not, I will post that update here. If you're having this issue, hope it's not a worse case scenario, however, chances are it is. Thanks, Toyota.

2008 Toyota Tundra; automatic climate control system
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Hello, Quick question: Did you have to take the individual servos off the plate? Or, can you just remove the entire old assembly plate, with all servos
mounted to it, then just install the new entire assembly plate with all servos mounted to it? (And of course connect all the arms, and make sure the
gears are all in the proper position.) Thanks very much in advance.
burgerman: I just took the entire old assembly plate off with the two servos still attached to it. If you want to only replace one servo instead of the entire assembly plate, you had to remove the entire "assembly plate" anyway before you can disconnect the individual servos because the clips holding the servos to the gears can only be accessed from the opposite side. (There are 2 screws attaching each servo to the "assembly plate" you can access from the outside, but there is an additional clip that you can't access until you pull the whole "assembly plate" off). I just replaced the entire "assembly plate" with a new assembly plate because I didn't want to go thru this whole ordeal again if the second servo went bad later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Just did the repair this weekend
Found assembly plate on ebay for $110
Tempaccounts- I can't thank you enough! I could never have replaced it without your incredibly helpful diagrams
I also want to thank rrands. Although I didn't use your dental floss idea, I did take your hint of 'having the bottom screw mostly in' and started from the bottom and worked my way up which allowed everything to snap into place correctly
The only thing I have to add to the thread is a word of caution
Once I had everything fitted and screwed down, I went inside to take a phone call. When I came back out and started the truck, 75 degrees no longer showed on the display! Success!! But the air was not diverting as it should. When I looked back down at the assembly plate, I saw the screwdriver used to line up the fan gear was still in the slot! Fortunately nothing had broken
This is by far the most difficult thing I have done to the truck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
I am in the same boat! 2010 Sequoia that has a delayed response, stuck on 74degrees, and also makes a ratcheting sound near the passenger side airbag. Do you think that the Techstream software will diagnose exactly what is going on so that I can buy the correct parts? Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Attached is a pdf file that will visually show what I was trying to explain above. (like the screw hiding behind a dash steel support post).

Also, there is the diagram in here that shows where all of the "door control arms" need to be located. This was the hardest part. I ended up using rubber bands to hold the "door control arms" in place since some were spring loaded and tended to bounce out of position when I was trying to line up the new "servo assembly plate". Once the new "servo assembly plate" was screwed in place I removed the rubber bands. Also, the gear that looked like a fan needed to be held in place with a screwdriver thru a built it hole, which I assume toyota purposely built in for this purpose (see diagram).

The pdf also has most of the steps for this process; however, they are steps for a Toyota Tundra, so everything is the same, except the Tundra is missing one of the "door control arms". I assume it is the door control arm for the rear passenger vents (which the tundra obviously doesn't have).

Good luck. Let me know if more clarification is needed.
which techstream tool specifically? I only see 60+ on amazon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
which techstream tool specifically? I only see 60+ on amazon
I used this one from amazon:

I had no issues at all, even tho the reviews scared me. It came with a dvd that had the cable driver and TS software on it. I added two new keys & fobs, this alone made it a good value.

Instructions are pretty worthless. There is a video on the disc that shows you what to do. It's not in English and there is no sound, but it does help.

I ran the software inside a VM, for two reasons.
1. I don't trust the software shipped from guys like this and would never let it on my PC or my network
2. I have a Mac and the software and cable only works with windows.


152821


152822
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top