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Discussion Starter #1
So I have been thinking about what I can afford after trading in my AC for a double cab in regards to a small lift (leveling it out). The threads on the spacers-diff drops, rear aal, rear blocks are endless. I have been going through them and trying to pinpoint something that will work for me. It seems some people love the spacer kits-and some say the 2.5"-3" beefed up coilovers are the only way to go.

At first I was thinking: hey Ill get the front spacer-diff drop and rear block-and understand I may have some cv issues that can be resolved with better clamps-(cheap, available anywhere) or after market cv boots. So after be reminded by <tundrainorange> in a recent post I remembered how nice the camburg 2.5 coilovers are-wow- Ok, ok I get to the point-

So if I do get those coilovers- do the cv issues still arise-? What about the rear end? What’s best?-I spend 800-1k for the front end and throw a 1inch rubber block or aal in the rear? My guess is that the rear is not lifted and I would love that because I plan on looking into that firestone airbag kit-for towing-and heavy payloads that over exceed my current ac-


I also see that <tundrainorange> has the camburg UCA-which im sure is a hell of a set up-but lets face-the line must be drawn somewhere-and my budget is not unlimited. Are the UCA necessary for the setup to work? The reason I am reconsidering the coilovers-is the next tundra-the doublecab I am trading in for, I want it to be done right-and done right up front-I plan on holding on to her for awhile. And that is not suppose to offend the spacer guys—as up until about 10 min ago was set on buying the Revtek kit.

I would love for the coilover guys to check in and give a few thoughts-and anyone else that feels they can help-

Thanks-

Todd

*****the reason I put this in the 1st gen tundra threads is because thats it is directed to**** not all toyota vehicles
 

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I went with Sway-A-Way Coilovers because the stock springs could not support the weight of the ARB Bumper I have and keep the truck lifted and level. I originally had a Revtek level kit on it but had to remove it for the coilovers. I am now finding that I will need to get a set of Camburg A-Arms because my upper CV boots are torn and leaking which is probably the result of the coilovers. It seems that most people that have the coilovers also have the aftermarket A-Arms. Figure about $1,500.00 for parts.
 

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I have the coilovers with stock A-arms and have no problems so far. You will have the CV issues with spacers or coilovers, if you go too high.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well I didnt know what is to high? I planned on 2.5 inches of life up front whether I went for the spacer of coil overs. I also am curious how much those aftermarket cv boots are. I would rather have it done upfront and not be possibly risking any damage to the cv joints because I didnt spend a little more $ up front.

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
bump......
 

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If you have 4wd, then 2.5" is the max lift most manufacturers reccomend for coilovers. Donahoe actually reccomends 2" for 4wd Tundras. A diff drop will help with the CV angle and it's only $20 or so for a kit. An aftermarket UCA from Camburg or Total Chaos will not help with the CV angle. It just gives better articulation, smoother travel, and a little more clearance for bigger tires. They are also much stronger than your stock a-arms.
 

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I ran a 2.5" lift with diff drop with NO CV boot problems for 2 years- that won't be a problem. I had no leakage until I got the coilover up to 3".
 

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i'm running Donahoe Coilovers with Camburg UCA's. The Donahoe's come proloaded at 2 inches but i had a 3 inch spacers in and they tore up my upper ball joints before that. the donahoes sit much higher and i'm actually going to be lowering them 1/2 inch today. The ride is completely different between spacer and coilover. My coilover and UCA set was $1300 with free shipping from Wheeler's Off Road, they have the Camburg Coilovers with the Camburg UCAS for $1259 but you pay shipping. Best of all, no sales tax is what drew me to them, also they good pricing.
 

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Todd-

Have you read over the Tundra Offroad FAQ?

Also look for a post in the offroad forum by mattjensen (SCT) about his Camburg uniball UCA hitting the inner fender at full compression. The Total Chaos uniballs don't do that, at least not on my 2000MY...but maybe there is a difference between model years, OTOHIDK what year jensen has.

What are you gonna do with this truck? Do you need an aftermarket coilover or will the OEM coilover with a spacer do the job? Uniball UCAs are for downtravel and strength offroad, fitting a wider tire is a side benefit. They're not necessary for a street-only truck, just a waste of money unless you're really getting it offroad with a stock truck and need more suspension travel.

-Sean
 

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Once again, there is no comparison between co's and a spacer, we all know which one is better. The people that say their spacers work just fine & their ride quality is good...well maybe...but they have'nt ridden in a truck with co's. I have had both, I know the difference.

As for the uca's hitting the fender on matt's truck, I have been offroading with them, and they drive the **** out of their trucks, including jumping them, which alot of people would not even consider, let alone have the balls to do so. So ya, the control arm might hit your inner fender when your jumping a 4 or 5k truck...lol, but thats why they make glassfenders.

I have camburg co's & uca, and have never hit any part of my fender w/ the uca's. I dont even see how that is possible, your tire would hit first. But I guess anything is possible when offroading.

If you dont plan to offroad that much, or go crazy in the dirt, just buy a drop bracket lift...aka, tuff country or rcd.
 

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Our truck is running the Swayaway Racerunner 2.5" Coilovers in the front with a SkyJacker 2" AAL in the rear. We have had problems with the CV's going out though. So we are running the adjustment collars down quite abit after all the new parts get put in. I am also going to have them recharged. AS for the quality of the coilovers,:tu: , we have no complaints. These are some wicked tough items.
 

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I have the Donahoe coilovers with Total Chaos uca and am very happy with the ride both offroad and on. The cv angle is definitely increased and I ended up doing the manual hub conversion. I installed the diff drop kit and personally I don't think it helps much if at all. I removed it after doing the manual hub conversion.

Rick
 

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I'm looking to beef up an 05DC4x4 also and am curious about how much lift you need to run 285/75/16 tires? Sounds like most of you guys have gone 3" which seems to be the point of failure for the CV boots. Can you get by with 2-2.5" lift on the coilovers or do you get rubbing?
I haven't even looked at my stock setup yet but are the cv boots just what they seem, rubber boots? I think someone said heavy duty aftermarkets were only $100 so maybe this is a moot point if that's all were talking about.

Thanks

Paul
 

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I'm looking to beef up an 05DC4x4 also and am curious about how much lift you need to run 285/75/16 tires? Sounds like most of you guys have gone 3" which seems to be the point of failure for the CV boots. Can you get by with 2-2.5" lift on the coilovers or do you get rubbing?
I haven't even looked at my stock setup yet but are the cv boots just what they seem, rubber boots? I think someone said heavy duty aftermarkets were only $100 so maybe this is a moot point if that's all were talking about.

Thanks

Paul
Run the porche 930 cv boots w/ clamps & diff drop. The co's can be adjusted on your 4x, about level or a tad higher. We have the same truck & mine are adjusted a tad higher in the front. So far not one prob, I have been offroad about 6 times like that.
 

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Thanks - are you running 16x8 wheels? any wheel spacers needed? Any recommendations on where to obtain the cv boots?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It would depend on what they are adjusted on, but my guess is you would be running about 2.5 inches of lift of front which would allow you to stuff 33's in there-However you would have to run after market wheels-to eliminate rubbing so I would think the 285-75-16 would work.

If you want to retain your stock wheels then you might want to stick with 265-70-17 like I have-(look at pics). IF you still want 33's on stock wheels you will have some rubbing issues and wheel spacers would be needed.
A lot of guys on here are running coilovers-or spacers with 285-75-16's (33's)

So do some searches and find out what you like-

I love reading on here-so its even better to be on the way to the Final four in Atlanta-

OSU BABY
 
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