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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings everyone. LONG time lurker. First post. DISCLAIMER: I am not very knowledgeable about cars/trucks

Okay. Please bare with me. I have an 01 Tundra with the 4.7 (SR5 if that matters). 160k miles. Recently had lower ball joint failure. Passenger side half axle pulled from differential. Had both joints replaced, axles, seals. This got me paying attention to my truck. Started doing little things, noticed seepage around valve cover, replaced gasket, PCV valve. New front brakes (calipers, pads, rotors). Changed oil in both differentials, transfer, engine. I have 2 bad ignition coils I need to replace.

The issue I am having is that everything seems to be running hot. To the extent the heat is radiating up into the center console and there look to be char marks on the transfer, front, and rear differential. Oil is slightly seeping from those parts at the drain/fill plugs. Every part of the power steering, from the reservoir to the pump, to the rack/pinion seems to be seeping oil. I have cleaned it and it appears again. My theory is too much pressure. I am going to bleed the system later. I have checked fluid levels and everything is right despite the seepage.

Ultimately my question is this: With the above mentioned issues is there any one component or factor which could cause these systems to begin advanced wear and create high heat/pressure? I have also noticed the exhaust pipes(?) changing color and clamps are loosening and coming undone. The gas tank even looks like it is leaking (just started gonna check that out). The truck ran great until the ball joint broke. I also could have done something by replacing the PCV valve.

There are 3 days of good weather finally, I have most tools, and the workshop manual plus all the information you kind folks share with one another. Does anyone know where to begin, or what could be wrong (probably multiple components)? I cannot afford a mechanic but have plenty of free time.

If you wouldn't mind, please advise me. The sun is coming up so I am going to start with the power steering.

* other notes: showing clear signs of bad alignment even though it was done recently. Front driver side wheel well gets hot and the rotor has been replaced twice from warping (?) No warning light. Burning smell from exterior after driving.

I AM USING A 3 TON FLOOR JACK AND 3 TON JACK STANDS (HF SPECIAL).

Hopefully I posted in the right spot, if not I'm sure a mod will move it to where it belongs. I need to be able to do my own work otherwise it would be cheaper to find another vehicle but I love this truck and have an emotional bond with it.

Thanks again. If there is anyway I can help in return I will.
 

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On the brakes, sounds like your caliper is sticking even though you just replaced them it's possible you got a bad one. Having a brake stuck will definitely cause more stress on things.

The seeping honestly sounds normal for a nearly 20 year old vehicle. The power steering lines at the reservoir like to seep fluid and adding a second clamp seems to help. The rack seals have likely deteriorated and the whole rack will need replaced if it's that bad. Rack Doctor and Detroit Axle units seem to be good units. That could be contributing to your tire wear along with upper ball joints, worn control arm bushings, tie rods, or wheel bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Man that is a lot of work. The frame is another concern. I'm going to bring the truck to a local shop and get some opinions on if it is worth it to fix. This truck was skipped out on the frame recall and Toyota isn't helping. I won't get into those details. I appreciate your response. It seems like you are pretty much on point with the front end. I have been under there a lot and think I ought to start with the suspension. I can be driving forward, wheel seems fine, hit a tiny bump and it jumps about 15 or 20 degrees and I have to correct. My only concern with the power steering is if/how it can contribute to overall failure of other parts/components such as the control arms/ball joints/other parts and assemblies. This is my only vehicle and I am juggling cost, learning, skill, and practicality. I appreciate your post and your time reading mine. I will update. Thanks again.

- Matt
 

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If you feel confident in your recent brake job at least check that the calipers are releasing. Pull off a wheel and see if you can slip a piece of paper between the pads and the rotor without having to wiggle the calipers around. Remember this is a 20 year old truck and like most of us old timers our parts don't always slide back into place very easily.
Did you clean up those break parts with a little emery paper (sandpaper) when you had them apart?
Wait for a good sale on oil changes and let the shop change the oil for you. Just be sitting down when they hand you a list of what is worn out. I took my wife's car in for a tranny flush and they reported that the motor mounts were critical and for $1000 they could make the car safe to drive. I drove it home ordered a set of four mounts ($136) and put them on in one day. But I appreciateded the "heads up" because they needed to be replaced.
Exhaust pipe and other engine parts getting hot sounds like engine timing to me (guessing?) Have a local auto parts store check engine codes for you if you don't have access to a code reader. May show you an electronics issue?
Add your location to your info. There may be a Tundra guy in your area that could help you walk through these issues.
"Enjoy the adventure" I love the 1st gen Tundras… Chap
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just dropped it off at a shop for an inspection of some components. Got a call saying everything was fine and looked good. I will check out the caliper when I get it home.

The engine timing could be something considering 2 of the ignition coils are corroded and I have no idea why. But that is another story. I wonder if the PCV valve and the EVAP system might be causing problems. I'm gonna check it out also.

I know there are issues. It is heat and pressure related. Even the rear differential is showing signs of seepage and crusted burnt oil.

I will experiment. Thanks for the advice. I will add my location. There is a local group here but they are mainly into off-road stuff. Rocky Top Tundra.

- Matt
 

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Changing the differential oil may help the rear end issue. When I got my truck even the maintenance items that were listed as dealt with were checked for fluid conditions. It's worth it to be certain of the real dates. I even changed the timing belt just so I had a date and mileage to work from. I hope that the shop put a code reader on your truck, if not I would still get that done. Timing or bad coil issues will be identified or ruled out, and most major auto parts stores do it for free. After all they want to sell parts... Chap
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The tech at the shop said everything was fine aside from a potential upper ball joint sticking. He offered to use an additive to the power steering fluid that would help with minor leaks but acknowledged the lines were in bad shape, use extra clamps, replace the hoses. Suspension was okay for its age and everything was generally in good shape aside from the upper ball joint and wheel bearings. I said okay to the additive as I have read it sometimes helps and isn't destructive but maybe useless. I wasn't charged anything.

I am paranoid about oil after the initial lower ball joint failure and all the oil drained out. The tow truck driver used a shit ton of cat litter and towed it to a certain place named after a hot rock. The technician there completely disregarded the mystery fluid and nobody recognized that there wasn't any oil there "no leaks". Also I'm pretty sure another place put coolant in the wiper fluid reservoir.

Everything you and festerw replied seems steady. Hopefully I can get this together.

Thanks for taking the time to help.

- Matt
 

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Take your time and get it right so you won't have to "wonder" about the little things. A truck is as good as the maintenance done on it. The little things like keeping an eye on fluid levels are important. They don't run well without oil...don't ask how I know... Chap
 
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