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Ok, some of you may know that I swapped out motors in my tundra because I bent a rod. Well the new motor is in and it isnt knocking or anything but there are 2 problems. The first is a Vacuum leak that I just cannot locate. It is coming from the passenger side of the motor, anywhere from between the middl of the motor to the back of it. I sprayed some carb cleaner where the sound is coming from and the motor revved indicating a leak, but I still cant pinpoint it. I though it was the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail so I replaced it and it did nothing. It is very loud at idle but when I give it 1/3 throttle or more it goes away. Any ideas?

The second is the 14 codes that it is throwing off. Yes, 14 I said. All of them are cylinder misfires. It has 2 random misfires, 2 on cylinders 1, 2, 6, and 8 and one each on 3, 4, 5, and 7. It idles like **** but at driving speeds it runs fine. And the check engine light is almost constantly flashing. Is the computer bad? I don't see why it would go bad.... I think I am going to break down and take it to a mechanic tomorrow because this thing is kickin my ***.

Any input is appreciated
 

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Hi,
Sorry to here you are still getting your butt handed to you by your truck, have you tried using a length of tubing (any size you have on hand) as a stethoscope? You hold one end to you ear and poke around with the other end in the area the noise is coming from, I use this trick frequently to pinpoint hisses/squeaks in the engine compartment. Those misfires could also be related to the vacuum leak, if it's as loud as you say it could easily be throwing off the mixture in the engine and giving the computer fits trying to compensate for it. Just a couple thoughts, hang in there you already did the hard part now it's the dastardly details that are left. Good luck. Scott
 

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If you swapped out the motor then you must know a lot about what is going on.

Did you check the simple things? May sound silly but are the plugs all in tight? I just know when I do a lot of work like that sometimes the simple things get forgotten, or I tell myself I will get that later.

I am sure you checked every vacuum line 15 times (even though there is only like 2 or something) but did you replace them with new ones? Could there be a split hose or connection point bent or something?

And what is very loud at idle... what type of sound is it? ticking, or what?

I would find the leak before assuming the ECU is bad.

Did you do a short block or swap out the entire motor and where did the motor come from? Did you do the heads or have them resurfaced? Could be a warped head? You know process of elimination. Can't be that many things.

Hard to do but maybe walk away and then come back to it later. Call some friends... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi,
Sorry to here you are still getting your butt handed to you by your truck, have you tried using a length of tubing (any size you have on hand) as a stethoscope? You hold one end to you ear and poke around with the other end in the area the noise is coming from, I use this trick frequently to pinpoint hisses/squeaks in the engine compartment. Those misfires could also be related to the vacuum leak, if it's as loud as you say it could easily be throwing off the mixture in the engine and giving the computer fits trying to compensate for it. Just a couple thoughts, hang in there you already did the hard part now it's the dastardly details that are left. Good luck. Scott
Tried the hose truck but I couldnt hear anything. The carb cleaner truck worked like a charm but I still cant find where the leak is coming from exactly.

If you swapped out the motor then you must know a lot about what is going on.

Did you check the simple things? May sound silly but are the plugs all in tight? I just know when I do a lot of work like that sometimes the simple things get forgotten, or I tell myself I will get that later.

I am sure you checked every vacuum line 15 times (even though there is only like 2 or something) but did you replace them with new ones? Could there be a split hose or connection point bent or something?

And what is very loud at idle... what type of sound is it? ticking, or what?

I would find the leak before assuming the ECU is bad.

Did you do a short block or swap out the entire motor and where did the motor come from? Did you do the heads or have them resurfaced? Could be a warped head? You know process of elimination. Can't be that many things.

Hard to do but maybe walk away and then come back to it later. Call some friends... :D
Junkyard motor, complete minus accessories. The plugs were cleaned and installed correctly and are tight, but yea there are only a few vacuum lines and they are all new hoses and I have checked them a dozen times and they are all in good condition.

It is a loud hissing sound. Like air being sucked in a big hose. Its overwhelming at idle. But you are right, I am trying to find the vacuum leak first before I assume anything about the electrical gremlins.
 

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I was not trying to imply any poor work... just doing the process of elimination thing and starting with the easiest first. I have found many times over that if I start by searching for a more serious problem I waste valuable time.

So, if it is a junkyard motor, why was it there (at the junkyard)? Totalled truck? Is it possible that fuel injectors are loose or a warped head or loose head bolts... there would most likely be oil or coolant leaking then but again, just going through the things that could happen. Sorry not much more help...
 

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A vacuum leak will probably cause some of the cel trouble codes you are seeing. You may have to pull the intake and take a look.
 

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A vacuum leak will cause a lean misfire, in this case it sounds like you have a large vacuum leak (maybe pcv hose) such a large leak will cause all cylinders to run (lean) causing a p0300 - p0308 < misfire> a blinking CEL is telling you that driving the vehicle will cause catastrophic catalytic converter damage..

with all that being said, in order for a vacuum leak to cause all cylinders to misfire in must be in the upper intake (plenum) i would think (giving all cylinders to much air and not enough fuel) if it was the lower intake gaskets or a vacuum port that is on one side, you would only have misfire codes for (that) side.

Or you may have a loose or cracked plenum or throttle body.

Ill see if i can find a picture of the intake system for vacuum ports.
 

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Ok,

looks like there are vacuum ports under the plenum, the only problem is the drawing is for a 04-06 4.7 and Im not sure if it would be the same for yours....(I dont see why not but....)

anyhow the link below will take you to a page where you can download the complete factory service manual for your truck. (Much, much thanks to mark at ncttora)

Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner/ Tundra/ FJ Cruiser Factory Service Manual Page

also this pdf has trouble shooting step by step for p0300 misfire codes...

hope this all helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As far as I know there are no vacuum ports or holes under the intake plenum. I dropped it off today to get it looked at so we will see what happens. Frankly I am just tired of messing with it.
 

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Anyone have any idea on about how much it'd be to rebuild a tranny also?
I thought the general consensus was these tranny's aren't rebuilt. It's better just to buy a re-manufactured one from the dealer.
/Mike
 

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Salvage yard engines are tough. I work at a Dodge dealer and have seen all kinds of problems with salvage yard engines and trannys. If the salvage yard dropped the engine, the intake might have a crack or a gouge causing a vacuum leak. I would remove the intake and make sure everything is ok-gasket and mating surface as well as the intake itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I thought the general consensus was these tranny's aren't rebuilt. It's better just to buy a re-manufactured one from the dealer.
/Mike
I think i have heard that too, but I am sure theres something out there or someone that can do it instead of getting reamed by toyota for a tranny. I may just send it to IPT and have it built. Its expensive but its more heavy duty and would better suit me.
 

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I have heard ranges from approx. $2,000.00 to $3,400.00.

Any word on your motor? Did the mechanic find the vacuum leak, or is it sitting waiting to be looked at?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have heard ranges from approx. $2,000.00 to $3,400.00.

Any word on your motor? Did the mechanic find the vacuum leak, or is it sitting waiting to be looked at?
Yea Toyotapartscheap.com has em for $2,045.06.

Its still sittin at the mechanics shop. He said he will look at it the first of next week. I think it may be a cracked intake plenum. If so, I will just get it back from him and put on my own one myself to save some money. I am having him fix the stripped studs on the exhaust manifold. And if it is a cracked manifold, that may be why all the codes are being thrown so it may kill 2 birds with one stone.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I went and got new gaskets that go between the intake plenum and the block, going to see if one split or cracked when I reinstalled them and didnt notice. We will see how it works so lets keep our fingers crossed lol
 

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Service your starter while you're in that deep........maybe just blow it out with compressed air>>>>>?
Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
TheGryme, I did that before we ever dropped the motor in the truck. But now that I have had that manifold off 3 times, it would be a breeze to replace the starter, but that doesn't mean I want to :D

The mechanic still didn't get to look at it and its been there since Wed. of last week. So I told him I really needed it for school so I picked it up and attempted one last time to see if I could fix it. The $60 intake gaskets I got from Toyota fixed the vacuum leak, and there are no more thrown codes. Oh yea, and no more power steering pump leak. Only about $70 in parts and all those things were fixed. I am pretty happy right now. Only thing that is left is new passenger manifold studs and a/c recharge!!! :tu:
 

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Nice, feels good to fix all those problems in one blow, huh!
 
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