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Are your cup holder inserts torn, disintegrating, floppy, or missing? Restore their grip with this DIY project that can cost less than $5! Save yourself the hassle of searching online for the right part number or name and do it yourself in about two hours! No man should suffer from floppy bottles in their rig for longer than necessary! This project is just right for most of us wanna-be shade-tree mechanics! Minimal tools needed! Minimal effort needed! And minimal time invested! Get a better grip in your truck, and do it!

Best of all, it's all on video. From every angle! And it's completely free! Video here, written instructions below.
Cup Holder Project: Part One
Part Two

Alright, I'm just having some fun. Some of you are interested in replacing your cup holder inserts, So I uploaded a video of the console tear-down and making replacement inserts. If I didn't answer your questions in the video or my write-up here, then please ask away in the comments.

My vehicle is a 2002 Sequoia Limited 4x4. It has the JBL sound system and heated seats, but not the 110V two-prong outlet in the back seat. These options will matter later as the console is different depending on year, model, drivetrain, and equipment.

This tear down is valid for 2001-2007 Sequoias and same year Tundras with a center console.

Tools for disassembly will include both Phillips and flat headed screwdrivers, and a 10mm socket. A flashlight, trim removal tool, and magnetic wand may come in handy, but aren't required.

Tools and materials for the replacement inserts include 2mm foam sheet, sharp knife (utility or X-acto), scotch tape, an awl, a hammer, a sacrificial wooden workspace, and a leather punch or mini-punch set.

  1. Remove items from center console.
  2. Unscrew Transfer case lever knob. (If you don't have a transfer case lever, than skip this step.)
  3. Remove front tray by gently pulling straight up. There are four plastic clips, two in front, two in back.
  4. Loosen cup holder assembly trim. Open box lid and pull trim by the corners until trim is loose. There are four plastic clips, two at the front near the mirror controls and heated seat switches, and two on either side of the lid catch.
  5. Push mirror controls from the bottom and unplug from the white harness.
  6. Twist cup holder trim so bottom is facing the driver's side and unplug the heated seat switches. One is red and one is black. (If you don't have heated seats, these switches are blank plugs and you can skip this step.)
  7. Turn over cup holder trim to expose 6 Phillips screws holding in cup holders.
  8. Remove cup holders from trim. Note that the inserts are symmetrical and have a unique fitment pin placements. Also note that inserts have tabs that project through slots in the cup holder plastic.
  9. Take care not to tear or damage original inserts more than necessary as they are the template for the new inserts.
  10. Set front inserts and front cup holders aside.
  11. Locate and remove four 10mm bolts at the bottom of the console. Two bolts in the bottom of the console box, and two in the middle of the console beside the seats.
  12. Grasp console box at the rear and near the box lid latch. Gently pull up slightly and then back. Rear half of console should lift free. There is a white wiring harness connecting front and rear. There is enough slack for the rear console to move about two inches.
  13. Remove harness connector from the floor, and pinch and pull the connector apart. The rear console box is now free.
  14. Flip console box upside-down. Note the wiring harness routing to 12V outlet/110V plug and to the rear climate control.
  15. There are two screws on the outer sides of the box. These are Phillips screws. Remove these first.
  16. Locate eight Phillips screws along the bottom edge of the console box. Two in front, rear and both sides. Remove these next.
  17. The lower half of the box should be loose. Pull up and hinge to the rear. Avoid stressing the wiring harness.
  18. Locate two rear-most screws on either side in the top of the box near the lid hinge. You only need to remove the rear-most two screws.
  19. The top half of the box should be free. Lift out and set aside.
  20. Locate the wiring harness to the back of the 12V power outlet. Pull straight back from the plug and harness should come free. Locate harness plug going to rear climate control. Pinch and pull connector out. (Tundras will not have rear seat controls.) (Some Sequoias will have audio plugs in this area. They may or may not need to be unplugged.) Lower half of console box should be free and can be set aside.
  21. Locate and remove two screws holding cup holder trim in, one left and right side. Note plastic clips at the bottom edge of console box on left and right sides. Carefully pry with flat-headed screw driver until cup holder trim is free.
  22. Remove cup holders from assembly.
For the inserts themselves, I chose to glue two 2mm pieces of foam together. I had a bottle of Gorilla glue at home and didn't want to buy a new bottle of glue just for this project. I would recommend NOT using Gorilla glue. Elmers or its equivalent should be fine if you want to glue two sheets together. Gluing two sheets together will add additional rigidity to the inserts that a single layer of foam or unglued double-layered foam inserts may not provide. It's up to your individual taste. My inserts turned out rather stiff, but they are still flexible enough to accept medium sized cups. A Gatorade bottle or a bottle that takes up the whole opening will probably not fit. I have yet to test something that large.

I taped the original inserts over a piece of foam trimmed to the insert's rough size. I then used a utility knife to cut around the template's perimeter. Then I used the smallest punch size, 2mm, and put the punch wherever there was an alignment pin hole and gave it a good smack. It was very satisfying as there are at least a dozen holes to punch for each insert. There are some areas of special attention while cutting the inserts, specifically the tabs for the front cup holders and a small notch for the rears. These are important for aligning and fitment of the inserts back into the plastic. Lastly, I used the awl to punch small holes between the gripping fingers of the inserts to keep them from tearing. Each finger is cut from the next to allow flexibility. My cuts weren't exacting to the original pattern, but they are close enough that you don't notice.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Remember to plug in all the harnesses before buttoning everything up. A magnetic wand will be helpful with the screws on the sides of the console box. Also take advantage of this disassembly to clean around the switches and the floor between the seats. My buried treasure was three cents and dog hair! Yay me!

I think that just about covers everything. If you have any questions after reading this and seeing my video, I'll try to be as helpful as I can. Enjoy your refurbished cup holders and be safe out there!
 

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Damn, thats a lot of work. Just an heads up, someone has done it before. Not as much detail and not with a video but maybe you could add your stuff to this thread.

 
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Damn, thats a lot of work. Just an heads up, someone has done it before. Not as much detail and not with a video but maybe you could add your stuff to this thread.

Good catch, Cheapskate. I missed it in my search. I made a link there to my post.
 

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All good. You put a lot of work into that so info like that should be shared as much as possible to help others. Nice job by the way. Not too many people would take the time to not only post a write up but an on line video as well.
 
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